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Have a 97 VW Passat VR6, it died one day as the check engine light came on, it would run for a few minutes and then die, running shorter each time. Took it in to the shop and got the fuel pump replaced, which seemed to solve the problem. Car ran fine for the mechanic, and started up fine when I went to take it home. But 2 hours after getting it home, the engine turns over but just won't start at all. Any ideas? (fuel filter & fuel pump are new)
Re: Have a 97 VW Passat VR6, it died one day as the check...
You need to check fuel pressure at the fuel rail.if pressure is at spec. Check spark at the plugs. Also replace relay for fuel pump if it isn't working. Could be a bad new fuel pump. Pull the codes first.
Either your battery has just given up the ghost,........ Is it the original, and now 10 yrs old ?
Or your Alternator is not charging enough, to replenish what is used.
Have battery tested first, if OK, then the alternator belt tension, and alternator for correct output charging rate.
If all these shows no faults, your starter is then suspect.
it starts from cold because the auto choke is on ,allowing a richer mixture ,try removing the sender unit in the tank and seeing if the connection from the pump to the outlet connection is ok or leaking causing a loss of fuel pressure
hi, here is a guide i have come across on this site written by another expert it should be the one for your engine but always double check.
If you are unsure what you are doing then please go out and buy a haines workshop manual as these tell you every detail you need to know so that would be your best solution.
Please dont do this work if your unsure what you are doing as you could damage the engine beyond repair so you have been warned;
it covers single cam and if you scroll down it shows double cam ok
Sep 14, 2009 - VW Passat & Audi A4 1990-2000 Repair Guide Timing Belt - REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
2.8L SOHC (AFC) V6 Engine
Note the radio security code and disconnect the negative battery cable.
Place the (hood) lock carrier in the service position. For
additional information, please refer to the following topic(s): Body
And Trim, Service Position, Front Bumper, Hood Lock Carrier.
Remove the engine accessory drive belt. For additional
information, please refer to the following topic(s): General
Information And Maintenance, Routing Maintenance And Tune-up.
Turn the engine by hand to Top Dead Center (TDC) on the firing stroke for cylinder No. 1.
NOTEThe large holes in the camshaft sprocket lock plates should be on the inside facing one another.
Remove the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor from the lower left
side of the engine block. Make sure the engine is at TDC and install
the threaded crankshaft holding pin Tool No. 3242 and lightly tighten.
Remove the upper timing belt covers, the crankshaft vibration damper and then the lower timing belt cover.
Loosen the camshaft sprocket bolts slightly and use a suitable
pulley to release the sprockets from the tapered ends of the camshafts.
Loosen the tensioner roller and remove the drive belt.
To install
:
Install the timing belt over the sprockets, then the idler rollers and lastly over the tensioner.
Install camshaft alignment tool holder Tool No. 3243 into the camshaft alignment flanges.
Check and adjust the cam belt tension such that the upper left
portion of the belt between the tensioner and the left cam gear can
just be twisted 90° ( 1
/
4
turn).
Tighten the cam belt tensioning roller to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm), and the camshaft sprocket bolts.
The balance of the installation is in reverse order of removal.
2.8L DOHC 5V (AHA) V6 Engine
Note the radio security code and disconnect the negative battery cable.
Place the (hood) lock carrier in the service position. For
additional information, please refer to the following topic(s): Body
And Trim, Service Position, Front Bumper, Hood Lock Carrier.
Remove the engine accessory drive belt. For additional
information, please refer to the following topic(s): General
Information And Maintenance, Routing Maintenance And Tune-up.
Turn the engine by hand to Top Dead Center (TDC) on the firing stroke for cylinder No. 1.
NOTEThe large holes in the camshaft sprocket lock plates should be on the inside facing one another.
On the cylinder block near the crankshaft, remove the sealing
plug from the lower left side of the engine block. Make sure the engine
is at TDC and install the threaded crankshaft holding pin Tool No. 3242
and lightly tighten.
Remove the upper timing belt covers, the crankshaft vibration damper and then the lower timing belt cover.
Loosen the camshaft sprocket bolts slightly and use a suitable
pulley to release the sprockets from the tapered ends of the camshafts.
Using a 8mm Allen® wrench, rotate the timing belt tensioner
roller clockwise until the tensioner is compressed; then, insert a 2mm
spring pin through the tensioner housing and tensioner plunger to
secure it in place. When the plunger is secure, release the wrench
tension.
Remove the damper-to-crankshaft bolts and the damper.
NOTEIt is not necessary to remove the center bolt when removing the crankshaft damper.
Remove the serpentine belt idler and the crankshaft damper guard.
Mark the running direction of the timing belt and remove it from the pulleys.
Fig. Crankshaft pulley alignment location for TDC-Audi 2.8L V6 engines
Fig. Left camshaft sprocket alignment position for TDC; right camshaft position is similar-Audi 2.8L V6 engines
Fig. View of crankshaft holding tool installed-Audi 2.8L V6 engines
Fig. View of camshaft locator bar installed-Audi 2.8L V6 engines
To install:
Make sure that the camshaft pulleys and the crankshaft pulley are
in alignment with TDC of the No. 1 cylinder's compression stroke.
Install the timing belt; make sure the timing belt is installed in the correct running direction from which it was removed.
Using a 8mm Allen® wrench, rotate the timing belt tensioner
roller clockwise until the tensioner is compressed; then, remove the
2mm spring pin from the tensioner housing. Slowly, release the
tensioner spring pressure to put pressure on the timing belt.
Install the crankshaft damper guard and the serpentine belt idler pulley; torque the idler pulley bolts to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm).
Install the crankshaft damper and torque the
damper-to-crankshaft bolts to 15 ft. lbs. If the damper-to-crankshaft
center bolt was removed, torque it to 147 ft. lbs. (200 Nm) plus 180° 1
/
2
turn).
Remove the Crankshaft Holder tool No. 3242 and install the sealing plug.
Replace the remaining components by reversing the removal procedures.
Refill the cooling system and the automatic transaxle. Connect
the electrical connectors. Install the negative battery cable last.
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P228C, it has applied exclusively to diesel powered vehicles. It has also meant that the powertrain control module (PCM) had detected a low voltage signal from the control circuit of the electronic fuel pressure regulator, which reflected insufficient fuel pressure.
You must have a fault test run on the engine control computer (called an OBD2 fault code scan), there is likely a fault code or two stored that will help diagnose the problem.
It depends on what engine you have, but all 3 are similar. They are all in the front of the engine, so the water pump can be run by a belt. With the 1.8 turbo, it is run by the serpentine belt, but you still have to take the timing belt off because it is behind the timing belt slightly. The Vr6 is run by the timing belt, so also needs the belt removed. The V6 was less common, but also difficult. You do not have to take the timing belt off I think, but you have to remove the whole chassis at the front, because there is so little room otherwise. There really are only 4 main bolts holding the whole chassis front on. It is recommended that the thermostat and timing belt be done at the same time, to save labor, since it is intensive on any engine.
if it fires then dies, you have to reset the alarm system with the key/remotes???otherwise you need to plug in the diagnostic computer(saves hours of "fun")
My older 1992 passat done this when the catalytic converter was worn and little bits broke away inside causing loss of power and would run fine for a while or for a day then be a bother with the same problem,with the converter cool just tap it lightly with your hand(it's in the left of engine bay behind the headlight unless yours is under the car if its the mk4 from picture) and listen for rattling sounds or start the car and listen to it.
Possible exhaust restriction.
Could be cat converter.
You can try and unhook the exhaust system and try it.
If the car will run a few minutes try a vacum guage hooked up to engine vacuum.
If you get a very low reading that would be your answer.
I note that you posted your question 14 Feb 09, so happy belated Valentine's Day! Anyway, I own a 2004 VW Passat 1.8 and am currently facing the same problem (EPC light and check engine light on) and subsequently, I coded it out, which was P0322. I took my other vehicle (more reliable) into the VW dealership in Olympia Washington. I was going to replace the EPC sensor, which typically handles what is sent to the car's brain, telling it how much gas it needs to run. However, the technicians at the dealership told me to code it out before investing any money without knowing exactly what should be replaced.
I took the code and determined the "crank sensor" was defective. If you call around, you should be quoted anywhere between $48 and $90 respectfully. If your VW was lurching like it was missing for a split second at a usual speed, or died at stops, then I would say you were experiencing the same problem I was having. Hopefully, this will fix your problem? The part is pretty inexpensive, but I think what VW charges to replace the sensor, is highway robbery. Anyone in your family mechanically inclined? Good luck! ([email protected])
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