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My info for lower ball joint says 74 ft lbs
outer tie-rod says 47 ft lbs.
Any specs your given on the internet you should try to double check. All I can do is post what my database showed. Hopefully the database is correct.
all vehicles are similar. remove wheel,remove axle nut,remove tie rod ,remove lower ball joint ,pull spindal and rotor back pushing axle thru at same time,use pry bar to pop axle from tranny, reversal to install, push axle into tranny,pull spindal/rotor back install axle end into hole reset lower ball joint ,tie rod end. then most important TORQUE AXLE NUT TO PROPER SPECS if you dont you will ruin the wheel bearing. not fun to do in the driveway and sometimes all these parts are a real pain to remove even on a hoist with the proper tools so beware and for the love of life dont hammer on the end of the axle
CAMBER BOLT ON THE TIE ROD ENDS.YOU NEED A HAYNES REPAIR MANUAL TO GET THE TORQUE SPECS.YOU PROBABLY NEED WHEEL ALIGNMENT WHENEVER YOU REMOVE TIE ROD ENDS OR UPPER AND LOWER BALL JOINTS IT WILL ALTER WHEEL ALIGNMENT.
A Ball Joint Can Usually Be Replaced Without Removing The Control Arm From The Vehicle. Place The Vehicle On Jack Stands. Remove The Shock Absorber And Install A Spring Compressor on The Coil Spring.Remove The Nut Securing The Ball Joint To The steering Knuckle And Separate The Knuckle And Then Joint. The Ball Joint Should Be Pressed,Riveted,Bolted,Or Screwed Into The Control Arm.A Service Manual Will Give The Details For The Specific Make And Model Vehicle.
Remove in this order: wheel, loosen the 4 lower ball joint set bolts, cotter pin and nut from tie rod, tie rod from ball joint bracket, ball joint from lower control arm, 4 lower ball joint set bolts, ball joint from suspension. Install is reverse but don't tighten the 4 lower ball joint set bolts.
torque is as follows: ball joint to control arm- 112 ft-lbs Tie rod nut- 67 ft-lbs lower ball joint set bolts- 83 ft-lbs remember to use a new cotter pin
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