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1st: make sure you have the fan up all the way, and you're A/C is on the MAX selection. If it's on Normal A/C it will blow lightly even with the fan up as far as it will go - however - if your heater blows strongly, but he A/C on MAX does not - you may need to replace the blower motor (usually installed on the passenger side, on the rear firewall, or under the dash on the passenger side (near heater core).
Also consider the fact that the engine has to work a little harder to operate the A/C pump, as it is having to cool the air faster (on normal); it is recommended that while driving, to run A/C on MAX as the A/C pump doesn't work as hard to cool the air - and does not use as much gas.
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Dual air. The actuator is bad. It is between the fire wall and HVAC plenum. The dash has to be removed along with the plenum. Costly job at the garage.
Could be several things such as a weak pressure switch or weak clutch magnet. You would need to check for power at the ac clutch when it stops working and then go from there.
The only smart solution is to take it to a certified AC Technician. There has to be a leak in the system and adding a can or two of 134A is at best, just a waste and at the worst could cause serious injury or even death, if the chargeing hose is connected to the high pressure side and the engine is started. It is cheaper in the long run to have a tech with the proper equipment solve your problem.
Yes I would highl suspect is the blower resistor. Try the fan without the AC and see if it blows only on high or on other settings. If it is similar to the when you have the AC on, then it is the blower resistor that needs to installed.
If you have proper amount of freon in sytem, try blowing out condensor and radiator fins with air and water, make sure your cooling fan functions properly. After all this, you can try replacing the expansion valve. Ultimately, you may just have a weak compressor. Another thing to note is make sure you do not have too much freon or oil in the sytem.
You have a ground problem. Somewhere on the wiring, usually where there is a bind of many cables zip tied together heat from a hot lead wire has cause it to melt another wire which is grounding itself with your other wire causing your bulb to burn or a fuse to pop. Check your wiring...this is going to be pain staking but it will solve your issue. This is the cheapest way to troubleshoot the problem. If your turn signals are parallel to each other check the other bulb, maybe that could be your culprit as well. Change both light bulbs first before you check all the wiring. Cheapest first, let me know. Gabe
Check your fuses.If you have a test light, unplug the blower motor, start the car, turn the fan on, if you have power to the blower plug, the blower motor is bad. If no power, if it's not a fuse, check the blower motor resistor. Should be mounted right next to the blower motor. It is inserted into the evaporator box
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