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one of the pistons in the brake master cylinder is poss stuck at the bottom of its stroke or the return spring has broken, dont take any chances with brakes change that master cylinder
I am not sure in what order you did the brakes but you always start with the caliber farthest away from the master cylinder.1st rear pass side, then rear driver side,then front pass, and last front driver..
sounds like the concentric clutch slave cylinder is faulty/leaking, is there any sign of fluid loss from the resovoir, it uses the brake resovoir for its fluid supply, the leaked fluid is probably in the flywheel houslng, big job to change. front subframe has to be removed, if its a 2.5 or 3.0ltr transfer box also.
has your car got the engine driven power boost system? or the electric pump teves system, you can tell which by looking under bonnet to see if you have a pump on the front of engine driven by cam drive chain idler gear or a valve and pressure bottle on the rear of n/s inner wing. the latter is the electric pump type and you can if working hear the pump run when you turn ignition on it runs for about 5-10 seconds, let me know which type and I will try and help.
If you open the hood and look to the right front, you will see a resevoir. If this resevoir is dry due to a leak, it will not help assist to apply the brakes. This is very dangerous due to the weight of the vehicle. The resevoir should be green and tell you what fluid to use. This is very critical. the assist for the brakes on these models is hydraulic.
the front brakes are straight forward, open the brake fluid reservior,remove tires,then the caliber,then remove pads and use a c-clamp to compress the calibers,,install new pads,,the reinstall the cap on the fluid reservoir,when you crank the car,pump the brakes three times and on the last pump hold the paddle to floor then pull the electronic park brake. you will hear the module reset....
the master cylinder could be defective or the proportioning valve is stuck. You can try slamming the brake pedal down at a stop. this may reset the valve, if it goes off thats your problem. if it continues to stay on pull the E Brake or parking brake see if the pedal rises up f the pedal comes up it may mean your rear shoes are worn and the wheel cylinder or caliper seal is leaking. to test if all brakes are working go about 10 mph Be sure you e brake works then hit the brakes once you stop get out and look if there is rubber on the ground on all four wheels. do this in a area where it's safe and you can come to a atop before hitting someone Else's property or going over a cliff. If the front brakes work then your rear are not working if there is no marks on front that means there is a problem with the front brake system. remember the light is a warning jamming down the brakes may cause the master cylinder to fail so be sure your mechanicl emergency brake works good before doing test. otherwise you may experince the pucker factor, one guy at a shop I worked for pushed his tool box ouy yhr tindoor he didn't check the e-brake before doing the test in front of the shop. Opps.
First check your brake fluid level if its low add fluid. If this is OK have your front rotors check they may need turned have the pads checked at the same time. If your brake fluid was low you may have air in the brake line and they will need the air bled out.
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