I need to bypass security due to bad remote,or any alternative

You cannot bypass it which is why the security system is there. If you have a problem with the security system then you will need to transport the car to a Holden service center to rectify it for you. If you start messing with the system you will make your current problem worse. Contact Holden service and explain the problem exactly and they will advise you from there.

If you go to the boot and open the battery compartment on the left side of the boot in the sedan and disconnect the negative battery terminal for a few minutes the system may correct itself when you reconnect the power. If not, then it is off to Holden service to deal with the security issue.

Is there battery voltage at the bigger gage wire on the back of the alternator ? The other wire in the connector is a control feed from the PCM - engine computer , It is marked L ,if you hook a test light to positive battery terminal an touch the other point end to the L terminal an it starts to charge your alternator is not being turned on by the PCM ! Could have open circuit or bad PCM !

Hi Frank , what make vehicle ? Do you have any warning lights lit on the dash , SECURITY maybe ? Check engine light ? Did you check to see if there is battery voltage at the starter solenoid ? Did you check if there is A starter relay ?

Often the small pigtail wiring harness that plugs into alternator will come loose due to constant vibration. Unplug it being careful not to break the small plastic clips that secure it to alternator. Inspect wiring to make sure there are no breaks in wires, if so repair as necessary. If possible, partially fill the cavity on alternator that has the metal spade terminals, with dielectric grease or even Vaseline and then securely plug back in. Typically this will remedy the situation. If not you need to have alternator tested.

If you just got the car, the light may just be on delay mode, i.e will go off after about 30secs just ensure that the light is properly off.

This could also be a wiring problem. could be due to a bad fuse making partial contact, this will need changing.
it could also be form wires making false and wrong contact so call in you auto-mechanic to have it checked.

In the mean time before checking the wiring fault, you don't want to run down your battery so you can remove the battery terminal and preserve the battery..

this is due to a bad alternator or bad excite wire.. take off the positive battery terminal while the car is running, if it stops running you need to check both of these to solve the issue

This sounds like a weak or dead battery due to a bad alternator, i would start by having the battery and the charging system checked, i think you will find the battery is low or maybe no good or the alternator is not charging the battery.

The yellow wire in your Alternator plug Have a "Fuse Link" at the starter relay. If that fuse link is bad the alternator will not charge. To test jump the yellow wire with the hot wire at the alternator and if the alternator is new it should charge. Check and install the fuse links.

Other details that you can try:
First ensure your battery terminals are clean and free of corrosion. Make sure you use a battery tool to clean them up to ensure a good connection. reconnect and tighten.

NOTE: Some electrical systems need to have the system computer reset after changing an alternator. If you changed the battery first, then changed the alternator, this may not have happened. Sometimes it's as easy as fully disconnecting both terminals and reconnecting the battery.
Check the voltage from the positive terminal of the battery to the negative terminal on the battery(record this).


Then check voltage from the positive terminal of the battery to where the negative terminal connects to the block. if this reading is lower your negative battery cable may be the problem. I've had them crystallize before from age so badly that they lost flexibility and began breaking internally. Replace it.


Then check voltage from the smaller positive cable post on the alternator and the negative terminal on the battery. If this is lower the smaller cable may be the problem. Replace it.


Then check voltage from where your positive cable hooks up to the solenoid and to the negative terminal on the battery. if this is lower your positive battery cable may be the problem. Replace it.


Charge the battery fully and take the vehicle to a local auto parts store and see if they can run a charging system test (usually a free service). They should be able to tell you what kind of shape your battery is in and the alternator output. A good alternator will put out 14+ volts, if it's putting out 12-14 volts it's wearing out and needs replaced.


If your alternator is putting out 10-10.5 volts or less means one of the diode pairs are bad, 5-5.25 volts or less 2 diode pairs are bad. Either way the alternator is not charging the battery and it's the fault of the voltage regulator.


Ask the person doing the test if he can tell you what the field voltage is on the alternator. If they can and it is around 12 volts or more you can probably bypass the next test.



Start the vehicle and hold a steel tool near the back of the alternator (not on the pulley side). It should be drawn magnetically to the center of the alternator. If it doesn't your alternator is not generating the magnetic field needed, to generate electricity. This could be due to a bad alternator or wiring.


WARNING: The next test is the "old fashioned" way we shade-tree mechanics used to do this. It can be done with the engine running in most cases, but you must be extremely careful that you don't get clothing or long hair anywhere near the pulleys. You do this at your own risk. If you are uncomfortable with taking such a risk, have your mechanic look into it. Disconnect the two wire box-like electrical connector from the alternator's voltage regulator and see if there is any voltage (should be around 12 or more volts DC) from the wires going to the alternator. You can try testing this with the engine shut down and the key on, but it may not work on all vehicles.


With connector disconnected, if the voltage is less than 12volts or non-existent, it's a wiring problem. - With connector disconnected, if it is 12 volts or above it's probably the alternator (Bad windings.)
Set the multimeter to Ohms. Touch probes together and calibrate the needle to zero on right side of meter readout. (If the needle does not move to the right, you may need to replace the meter's battery or fuse). With the Alternator connector disconnected check the resistance of the alternator at the connector blades. If the needle goes to infinity, there is an open circuit in the windings. Replace the alternator.


Other things that can cause charging system problems:

• Excessive starter draw - Remove starter and take to parts store for testing
• Bad solenoid
  
• Failed engine compartment fuses or resisters - Look for and check big rectangular ceramic ones as well on antique/classic vehicles
  
• Failed fusible links
  
• Failing ignition switch - Usually under the dash, Not at the key
• Wiring to the key assembly inside the steering column - or on the dash older vehicles
  
• Bad computer modules
  
• Electrical wiring - This one takes the longest to isolate
• Particularly hot wires arcing to ground
  
• Some other Windstar threads suggest checking wiring bundles under the rubber boots at door hinges.
  
• Other unassociated electrical components shorting to ground and placing a drain on the system - could be anything from a cigarette lighter, to lighting, to electric radiator fans failing to shut off, ignition coil, radio, sensor probes shorting to ground, etc. etc

Hope this help (remember rated and comment this).

Your keyless/security system may have been damaged by the spikes. But, assuming you've already checked all the fuses, I would start by having the alternator tested. I would also check the alternator wire connection to the power distribution center (pdc). It can loosen and cause different problems.

Good Luck!