New Plug boots and spring replacements do not have a piece that contacts the plug. Do we replace the small piece or just have the spring contact the plug?

Have you had the OBD codes cleared ?

Each plug has it's own ignition coil. Remove the bolt from the coil and pull with a twisting motion. Be sure not to lose the spring inside the boot. If I remember right these plugs are 9/16. If you have an air comressor, be sure to blow any debris out of the hole before removing the plug.Don't forget the anti-sieze and dielectric grease when reinstalling. Hope this helps.

You don't. That is actually part of the plug wire itself. It is the actuall contact if I'm not mistaken.

has the small spring clip gone?if you push it downn hard and it stays loose then you may have to replace that wire(if replacing all wires take them off ONE at a time)

you will need 16 plugs 8 boots 8 springs and a set of plug wires. remove the air duct and resinator from top of engine, remove all the coil wiring connecters remove the two bolts that hold each coil to valve cover and twist as you remove the coil, remove plug wire next to coil. remove both plugs and replace with new, correct length wire and a boot with spring, install coil and torue all fasteners including plugs to spec.

The spark plug change is very straight forward. Basically, you remove the plastic valve cover trim panel, unplug the harness plugs from each of the ignition coils, remove the two nuts securing each coil, pull the coil up. The rubber spark plug connector boot should come up with the coil. You can now remove the spark plugs.

The spark plugs are not gappable. Install them as they come out of the box.

Replace the rubber connector boots at the same time, these wear out and can cause miss-fire problems.

Note that if you find oil in the spark plug wells, the valve cover gaskets must be replaced. Not only does this make a mess, but it deteriorates the boots and also causes miss-fires.

See the DIY article in the Spring 2005 issue of the Bavarian Autosport - Fast Times newsletter (see link below):

http://www.bavauto.com/shop.asp?HC1=0&HTarget=sc_fasttimes.asp&HCY=&HCM=

Contact Bavarian Autosport for the spark plugs and connector boots (and valve cover gaskets) at 800-535-2002, or order online.

All the spark plugs are located beneath each coil pack. The coils are located on the top of the engine next to each fuel injector, above each cylinder, through the intake manifold. you need to open the "dog house" engine cover in the cab. You will have to remove the intake hosing back to the throttle body from under the hood. then you'll have to access each individual coil pack by removing the four nuts(13mm hex) that hold the coil/ injector harnesses (and any wiring that might impede access), both from outside and inside the vehicle. The coils are each held down with a single bolt (7mm hex). once you unplug each coil from the wiring harness and remove the bolt, you'll be able to remove each coil to access the plugs. There is a special "Triton" spark plug socket sold by Snap-on Tools, but you can remove each with a regular 5/8" plug socket and 6" extension (and a little determination). When you replace the plugs, I would recommend replacing the plug boots as well,and using dielectric silicone grease inside where contacts are made to the coil and plug . Check for corrosion on the contact inside the coil, where the spring inside the boot attaches to the coil. Clean the contact points, or if too corroded, replace the coil( usually only in extreme situations). Replace everything in reverse order of removal. Hope this helps

No, don't remove head light. Pop the hood and pull the rubber grommet from the back of the headlight. there should be a harness attached to the back side of the bulb and if you feel around you should feel a small aluminum ring/clip that goes around back of harness plug. this clip pulls out and up. If your facing the hood the release for this clip should be on the right side of the harness. Next, disconnect the harness from the plug ( easier to do with small flat head screw driver). Then slighty twist and pull out light bulb assembly. It should come out with a plug on the end which might confuse you at first when comparing it to your replacement bulb which is a H7. This bottom piece which is black needs to be disconnected from actual bulb itself. You can gently pry the two apart with a small flat head screw driver. What ever you do don't touch the new replacement bulb with your fingers or get dirt or oil on the bulb. It's a halogen bulb and any oily substance especially human sweat and contact with hands will cause the bulb to actually cook and burn out over time when light is on. To install just do the same in reverse. Don't be a cheapscape, buy the $1.00 contact grease they sell you at the auto parts store. Apply this to the pins of the bulb and the socket it sits in.

Check the distributor rotor and the contacts on distributor cap, check that spark plugs are not dirty with oil, even if they are new.
If distribution is electronic take it to garage for scanner test.

hi riley
im dave

kind of funny that they said you should replace the plug wires when checking them to see if they need to be replaced is a major part of a tune up. How much did they charge for a tune-up? What was included?
In any event this is how you check your plug wires. Make sure you do this one at a time to prevent mixing them up, which is essential for proper engine operation. Disconnect the spark plug wire from the spark plug. You can use a special spark plug removal tool available for a low cost at most auto parts counters or you can grasp the rubber boot and twist it gently while pulling the wire free. Be sure the pull on the boot and not on the wire or you'll likely pull the wire out of the boot neccessatating new wires. Check inside the boot for corrosion, which is a white crusty powder (don't mistake the white dielectric grease used on spark plug wire boots for corrosion). Using an insulated screwdriver, insert it into the boot so it contacts the metal connector inside and have and assisstant turn the engine over while you hold the metal part of the screwdriver about an inch or less (but not touching) from a good ground like an unpainted screw or a piece of metal. Look for a strong, even spark to be generated between the blade and ground and steady intervals. Turn the engine off and push the plug wire and boot back onto the spark plug. It should fit tightly onto the spark plug. If it doesn't, remove the spark plug wire and a pair of pliers to crimp the metal connector inside the wire boot until the fit is snug. Clean built-up dirt and grease along the entire length of the wire with a clean cloth while inspecting the wire for burnt areas, cracks, and other obvious damage. Bend the wire in several places to make sure that the inside conductor hasn't hardened. Repeat the process for each wire. If new spark plug wires are neccessary, buy a complete set, pre-cut for your particular engine. Terminals and rubber boots should already be installed on the wires. Replace the wires one at a time to avoid mixing up the firing order. Coat the metal conductor with dielectric grease that will come with the pack of wires. Make sure the terminals are securely seated in the coil pack and on the spark plugs. Be sure that the length of the wire you replace is equal to the new wire. If all seems well the wires wait until dark and start the vehicle. Open the hood and look along the length of the plugs and around the coil packs that the plugs connect to for arcing(sparks).
If you need to run a diagnostic post me back