No clutch pedal has new master cylinder & slave cylinder still no pedal.

Try bleed

1. Check the fluid level in the master cylinder. ...
2. Locate the bleed screw on the slave cylinder. ...
3. Attach the hose to the bleed screw. ...
4. Open the bleed screw on the slave cylinder. ...
5. Have a friend press the clutch pedal in and hold it. ...
6. Close the bleed screw. ...
7. Have your friend release the clutch pedal.

Bleeding Clutch by Blocking the Slave Cylinder

Jamie, are you losing any fluid from the clutch master cylinder? By small resistance I presume you mean the pedal feels soft?

If you're losing fluid from the master cylinder you have an obvious leak somewhere and air is getting into the system.

Most leaks occur from the clutch SLAVE cylinder as it does all the work .. If there's no leak from the clutch slave cylinder, suspect the seals inside. It's like a bicycle pump ..the seal inside wears and it won't pump..

You may be able to get an overhaul kit. I'm in the UK .. but here's an Ebay link for a slave cylinder overhaul kit just to show you what it looks like:
FORD CORTINA MK2 CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER REPAIR KIT SP2085
Here's a link to show you what the slave cylinder itself may look like (it may NOT be for your vehicle..)
CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER FORD FIESTA ESCORT
It's easier and quicker to fit a new slave cylinder than it is to strip down and replace seals with a kit. Be aware, after overhauling or replacing a slave cylinder you have to bleed it - remove the air.

The easiest way of doing this is to make sure the reservoir is fill of fluid, crawl underneath the car with a spanner/wrench, place a rag over the bleed point and get somebody to pump the pedal a couple of times while you undo then tighten the bleed nut.

If it's not the slave cylinder at fault- then it's the master cylinder. Master cylinders also have a 'piston' and rubber seals which wear/perish.
However, it's more than likely that it's the slave cylinder at fault

It's easy put new master cylinder in place but don't connect rod to clutch pedal or bolt it to bulk head and leave metal solace feed pipe undone , connect fluid feed pipe to cylinder then tilt cylinder so slsve out let faces more down wards then top up fluid pot when fluid runs out slave outlet reconnect slave pipe , bolts master cylinder back in place and connect pedal to it , then undo nipple on slave cylinder let fluid run out freely titghten niplle then pump clutch pedal until it becomes firm job done .
15 minute job .

Only if it has a leak somewhere. Not that many places to check. Sometimes the master will leak, and you will have brake fluid below the clutch pedal.
A single steel line runs from master to the slave cylinder, down on the transmission bell housing. Check the line and the slave cylinder for leaks. If the slave is leaking, probably need a new one. And same for the master cylinder.
Fill the reservoir and check clutch operation. If any air got in the line to the slave, you will have to bleed the slave at the bleeder valve there. They are bled just like brakes, using the clutch pedal.

no fluid in the clutch reservoir due to a failed clutch slave cylinder
time to replace both the clutch slave and master cylinder

Thn the problem is the clutch master cylinder, it should build up pressure, ok try out this, remove the pipe which is going to the slave cylinder either from the clutch master cylinder or at the clutch slave cylinder and get someone to pump the pedal while you block the pipe and see if there is fluid thrown out with pressure.If there is pressure there thn fit back the pipe and refill the reserviour wth brake fluid and open the bleeding nipple at the slave cylinder let some fluid pour out and tighten it and thn pump the pedal and retry bleeding.
If there is no pressure at the pipe thn its the clutch master cylinder.
Hope this helps!

crawl up under the dashboard & look where the clutch pedal rod goes through the firewall. look for traces of brake fluid at the rubber boot of the rod. a clutch master cylinder normally will leak to the inside of the vehicle & down the firewall when it fails. Replace as required & bleed clutch system using the bleeder valve that should be on the slave asy.

There are two types of clutch actuators. (Mechanical & Hydtraulic)
A. For mechanical type,- Check the clutch cable as
this could be cut from wear and tear. This is easy
to replace. You can find this connected to the
pedal and the clutch lever near the transmission.
B.For hydraulic operated - Check the level of the
hydraulic oil at the cylinder of the hydraulic
actuator under the hood. This actuator is
directly connected to the pushrod driven by the
pedal. If the actuator is leaking, you have buy
a repair kit (Hyraulic clutch repair kit for Ford
Ranger 1994 MOdel.) These items must be
repaired to activate your pedal.

Did you bleed the system? When you replace the the master and/or slave cylinder you have to bleed the system just as you would with brakes. There is a bleed screw on the slave cylinder. Open the bleed screw, have a helper depress and hold the clutch pedal down.Tighten the bleed screw, then release clutch. Repeat this procedure until you have removed all air from the system and the clutch pedal is firm. Keep an eye on the fluid level to avoid sucking air into the system. If you have done this, remember there is a possibility that the master or slave cylinder is defective.

Replace both clutch slave and master cylinders, and bleed well. I've also had this happen.