I am changeing the timeing belt on a 1997 2.5L engine, Is it like most others where you set #1 at TDC? And is RF cylinder #1?

Engine timing is done electronically. It is based on Cylinder 1 being a few degrees before TDC (Top Dead Centre of firing stroke).

Valve Timing is set using marks when you change the timing belt or chain. That is set with Piston 1 at TDC on FIRING stroke.

Here is the firing order. It is nice and easy, 1, 2, 3, 4, left to right.

https://www.google.com/search?q=2007+suzuki+forenza+firing+order

..

You are at the wrong stroke on the 4 stroke engine. You have to be at TDC on the COMPRESSION stroke. You are at inlet or exhaust stoke TDC :>)

I need some clarification. Did you replace the belt because it broke? If so you may need to replace the head. The problem is if the belt breaks when your moving it usually damages the head and thus needs to be replaced.

Rotate the engine so that No. 1 cylinder is at TDC on the compression stroke. Check that the timing marks are aligned on the camshaft and crankshaft pulleys. An access plug is provided in the cam belt cover so that the camshaft timing can be checked without removal of the cover or any other parts. Set the crankshaft to TDC by aligning the timing mark on the crank pulley with the TDC mark on the belt cover. Look through the access hole in the belt cover to make sure that the timing mark on the cam drive sprocket is lined up with the pointer on the inner belt cover.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/ernie_b93ee48ba0eab50b

The 2 cams are linked with a chain at the rear of the cylinder head.

The cams need to be set so the slots on the chain sprockets line up with the cam tower caps with 16 links between cam caps.

You cannot see the front crank pulley tdc mark so you need to lock the engine at tdc with a screwdriver jammed into the timing hole on the bell housing after setting engine at tdc or use a DTI
to check to tdc in the #1 spark plug hole.

If the cams have not been disturbed you only need to set the belt cam sprocket to the mark and crank to tdc.....all this means pulling the core support into the service position so the belt tensioner can be locked down and/or doing a complete belt job along with a coolant pump if over 70,000 miles..

Timing Belt & Sprockets Removal & Installation 3.2L Engine To Remove:
TDC compression stroke timing marks

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions at the beginning of this section.
2. Remove or disconnect the following:
   • Timing belt cover
   • Crankshaft damper
3. Rotate the crankshaft in the engine rotation direction, clockwise using the J 42098 or other suitable tool until the # 1 cylinder is at Top Dead Center (TDC) on the compression stroke. The reference marks on the camshaft gears should be aligned with the corresponding notches on the rear timing belt cover, as well as the mark on the crankshaft sprocket and oil pump housing. Timing marks 60 degrees from TDC
   
   
4. Rotate the crankshaft counter clockwise using the J 42098 or other suitable tool until 60 degrees Before Top Dead Center (BTDC). The 60 degrees BTDC point can be identified by the index mark on the oil pump cover. Using the J 42069-10 or other suitable tool
   
   
5. Install the J 42069-10 or other suitable tool to the crankshaft sprocket with the knurled bolt.
6. Rotate the crankshaft in the engine rotational direction, clockwise using the J 42098 until the lever of the J 42069-10 or other suitable tool firmly contacts the water pump pulley flange. The # 1 cylinder is at TDC at this point.
7. Secure the moveable lever of the tool to the water pump pulley flange. Tools in cam gears
   
   
8. Install the J 42069-1 and the J 42069-2 or other suitable tools to the camshaft gears. If the J 42069-1 or the J 42069-2 or other suitable tools do not fit into the teeth of the camshaft gears, it may be necessary to loosen the upper idler pulley and turn the eccentric or camshaft gears until the tool can be inserted.
9. Loosen the timing belt tensioner nut.
10. Loosen the upper idler pulley bolt.
11. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Lower idler pulley bolt
    • Lower idler pulley and spacer
    • J 42069-10 or other suitable tool from the crankshaft sprocket WARNING
      After timing belt is removed, never turn camshaft and crankshaft independently. Do not remove J 42069-1 and the J 42069-2 or other suitable tools while the belt is removed.
      
    • Timing belt

Ford does not provide timing marks on this engine. There are special tools required to set timing correctly on this engine. However, it's been my experience that when the woodruff key is pointing straight up, you are at Top Dead Center (TDC) on cylinders 1 and 4.
In addition, you can remove the spark plug on the #1 cylinder and insert a long screwdriver into the hole so it contacts the cylinder. You can rotate the crankshaft until the screwdriver reaches the highest point and come extremely close to TDC in this fashion.
Note: you should set the camshaft timing with the cranshaft NOT at TDC because this is an interference engine, and you can damage valves if they contact the pistons. Therefore, set the crankshaft to TDC, then back off it a little to set the cam timing. When the cams are where you want them, bring the crank back to TDC for #1 and install the belt.
Hope this helps!!

There are so many steps. After removing everything so you can get to the timing belt you need to make sure you have the engine set so the #1 Cylinder is TDC. Remove the old belt and re-install the new one. If you need step by step directions on how to do any of this I recommend you get the Haynes Repair Manual for your vehicle since it will show you those and give you instructions on how to make sure your at TDC. If you try putting that belt on without being set to TDC the engine is not going to run correctly.

There is no manual adjustment for timing, this is done digitally by using a VAG 1552 scan tool or equivalent. Now if timing mark is all you need just to serve your curiosity then there are a couple.

Set engine to TDC for cylinder #1 by turning the crankshaft until timing mark on flywheel or torque converter aligns with marks on the transmission case.

• Manual Transmission

Confirm that engine is set to TDC for cyl #1 by checking that the timing mark on the flywheel lines up with notch at inspection hole on manual trans.

• Automatic Transmission

Confirm that engine is set to TDC for cyl #1 by checking that the timing mark on torque coverter lines up with the edge of the inspection hole on automatic transmission.

Remove upper toothed belt cover. Once removed, you will see the letters O.T. with an arrow on the upper rear toothed belt guard. Check that mark on camshaft pulley is aligned with mark on toothed belt guard. This brings camshaft to TDC for cyl. #1.

It is unlikely that a belt has skipped a cog, but if that happens your engine will run very rough or not operate at all. You might have other issue in the air metering sensors (MAF) which doesn't take account of temperature. That means whether the engine is cold or holt it will always run rough and definitely activate an MIL.

We cannot stress this enough: Be careful! Make sure you know where the timing marks are on your engine, and that you have them set up properly with No. 1 cylinder at top dead center (TDC) on the compression stroke before attempting to replace the timing belt.

Why? 1) That interference engine thing again; and 2) Every camshaft and crankshaft on planet Earth is indexed to No. 1 TDC. If you try to remove and replace the timing belt with the engine in any other position, chances are good you'll throw things out of time. Then you'll get confused and have to pull off the valve cover as you try to determine when No. 1's valves are closed (which begins the compression stroke) in order to re-index the engine. Get your marks lined up right the first time.