Re: 99 honda accord brakes start tight up when appled
Sounds like a sticky caliper piston. Possibly the slide bolts are dry and need to be greased. These are the long shafts that hold the two pieces of the caliper together.
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iFixit2.3L 4cyl or 3.0L V6, 6th Generation ... One possibilty is that the mechanic tightened your brakes to much as well but it sounds like the transmisson. ... I have a 98 Honda accord It dose not wont to go in R to back i have to push it and sometime it dose ... I have the same problem with 1997 Honda Civic HX CVT transmission.Missing: cl fine
I have '99 accord LX 4cyl sedan and the ignition switch is a problem for these cars. I replaced my ignition 2 or 3 years ago because it would randomly shut off and sometimes not start back up right away. It only got worse until I fixed it, it would die on the highway or freeway sometimes. Haven't had that problem since. i think it cost like $240 or so. Also if you have an automatic, be careful, they are notoriously bad for going out after 100k miles. mine did and its an expensive fix. good luck.
have your brake pads checked out, often they are so close to finnished that they make a noise when not applied, as soon as you apply them they press on the last bit of padding left and the noise goes away.
Sounds like a bad wheel hub. Or it could be just the brakes. Can you tell which corner it is coming from? Can you jack up that corner and spin the wheel? Wheel hub job about $400 brakes about $200 or less. Good luck
The rear wheel bearing and hub unit are replaced as a unit.
With the vehicle on the ground, loosen the spindle nut.
Raise the vehicle and support it safely.
Remove the rear wheels.
Remove the brake disc retaining screws.
Unbolt the brake hose brackets from the knuckle.
Remove the caliper bracket mounting bolts and hang the caliper out of the way with a piece of wire.
Remove the brake disc. If the disc is frozen on the hub, screw
two 8 x 1.25mm bolts evenly into the disc to push it away from the hub.
Remove the spindle nut and pull the hub unit off of the spindle.
Clean the backing plate and the mating surfaces of the brake disc
and hub with brake cleaner. Clean the spindle, washer, and hub with
solvent. To install:
Inspect the hub unit for signs of damage or wear. If the bearings are worn, the entire unit must be replaced.
Install the hub unit and spindle washer onto the spindle. Install the spindle nut but do not tighten it.
Install the brake disc and tighten the retaining screws to 7 ft. lbs. (10 Nm).
Install the brake caliper and tighten the mounting bolts to 28
ft. lbs. (39 Nm). Install the brake hose brackets onto the knuckle and
tighten the bolts to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm).
Install the rear wheels and lower the vehicle.
With the vehicle on the ground, tighten the new spindle nut to 181 ft. lbs. (245 Nm), then stake the nut with a punch.
Tighten the wheel nuts to 80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm).
Test the operation of the brakes.
ADJUSTMENT
The wheel bearings are not adjustable or repairable and should be replaced if found defective.
ok well you start with the most common, obvious, and easiest to repair.
1. fuse
2. bulbs
3. bad relay
4. bad switch
5. open circuit
6. short
This is the best order to diagnose your problem with. not sure how electricly savy you are but my first test would be to check for voltage at the bulb. Get yourself a voltmeter, a test light might work but a volt meter can give you the exact reading. unplug the harness from the bulb or vise versa, have someone hold the brake down, stick your diodes into the terminals of the harness and get your reading. if no voltage pull some fuses... still nothin, my moneys on the wires...
Open the hood and look near the firewall on the drivers side. You will see the black rubber cap on a plastic resevoir. There is a switch that turns on when the fluid level gets low. This may be your issue.
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