How to replace headlamps or fog lamps. - 2003 Jaguar X-Type

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Headlamp lamp relay ,located in the passenger compartment junction block . Headlamps don't work lo or hi beams ? Also fog lamps have a control relay .

Yea, take it to a qualified repair shop ! Could be anything , and with out doing some test couldn't make a suggestions .
Headlights/Daytime Running Lights (DRL) Circuit Description
The instrument cluster controls the headlamp systems that include daytime running lamps (DRL). The system allows the headlamps to operate at a reduced intensity when all of the following conditions apply:
• The engine is running.
• The transaxle is not in the PARK position.
• The normal headlamps are not on.
The instrument cluster turns the DRL system on by grounding CKT 592, thereby energizing the DRL relay. This action allows a reduced voltage of 6 volts to flow across the headlamps. If the vehicle has the optional fog lamps, the fog lamp relay will also be energized. The park lamps will turn on and the fog lamps will operate normally. When the headlamp switch is turned to the ON position, the instrument cluster allows normal headlamp operation.
The instrument cluster also has an input from the park brake. If the park brake is in the ON position, the DRL will remain disabled until the park brake is placed in the OFF position. On vehicles with an automatic transaxle, the instrument cluster will disable the DRL until the transaxle has been taken out of the PARK position.

If it is a turn knob for lights just pull out on knob

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HEADLAMP

When a vehicle experiences problems with the headlamp system, verify the condition of the battery connections, fuses, charging system, headlamp bulbs, wire connectors, relay, high beam switch, dimmer switch, and headlamp switch. Refer to the appropriate wiring information.
Each vehicle is equipped with various lamp assemblies. A good ground is necessary for proper lighting operation. Grounding is provided by the lamp socket when it comes in contact with the metal body, or through a separate ground wire.
When changing lamp bulbs check the socket for corrosion. If corrosion is present, clean it with a wire brush.
When it is necessary to remove components to service another, it should not be necessary to apply excessive force or bend a component to remove it. Before damaging a trim component, verify hidden fasteners or captured edges are not holding the component in place. Don't replace parts unless you test an your sure that is the problem. Check the basic's first ! Then find a wiring diagram an see what all is involved , connectors , grounds , power an do a voltage drop test on the circuit to find the problem !An a scan tool would come in handy as well ,to do bi-directional tests !

HEADLAMP SYSTEM

The configuration of the headlamp system of headlamps, park lamps and fog lamps is determined by the BCM. The BCM -body control module determines the lighting configuration as a result of the inputs from the ignition switch, headlamp switch and multi-function switch. A PCI bus-serial data communication network is transmitted from the BCM to the FCM to enable the necessary drivers to set the illumination configuration. Four wires are connected between the headlamp switch and the BCM. The first wire contains information regarding the position of the headlamp switch (Off, Automatic Headlamps, Automatic Headlamp switch fog, Park with Fog, Head, or Head with Fog Lamps). The second wire contains information regarding the position of the dimmer switch (Dome Lamp, Daytime Brightness, Dimming Level or Off). The third wire is a dedicated signal return (ground) wire. The fourth wire provides power to the front fog lamp indicator. You should take this to someone who knows what's up rather then just replacing parts !

There are several things that can cause your fog lamps to not work. The fog lamp circuits need to be diagnosed. Your entire fog lamp circuit can be tested at the plug for the fog lamp relay located n the relay box.

PIN 5 on the relay should have battery power at all times. This power comes from Fuse #43 (15 Amp) in the fuse and fusible link box in the engine compartment. If there is power at this pin, the fuse and the circuit between the fuse and the relay is good.

PIN 3 on the relay goes to the fog lamp bulbs. There should be continuity to ground through the bulbs on this pin. If you have continuity to ground, connecting a jumper wire between PIN 5 and PIN 3 should make the fog lamps come on unless there is a short circuit to ground, which will cause Fuse #43 to blow. If there is no continuity to ground on this pin, the problem is either that BOTH fog lamp bulbs are burned out or there is a break in the wire between the relay and the bulbs.

PIN 1 Is the battery power for the primary coil in the relay. This power comes from the headlamp switch and power is only supposed to be present here when the headlamps are on and the dimmer switch is on LOW BEAM. If power is not present at this pin, the problem is a bad headlamp switch or an open circuit between the headlamp switch and the relay.

PIN 2 Is the control circuit for the primary relay coil. The control circuit should have continuity to ground when the fog lamp switch is set to the ON position. If there is no continuity to ground with the fog lamp switch on, the problem is a faulty fog lamp switch, an open between the relay and the fog lamp switch, or an open between the fog lamp switch and ground E37 (right front of engine compartment) and ground F7 (left rear of engine compartment) Please note: This circuit has redundant grounds....if one ground is not making good contact, the other ground can still make the circuit work.

PIN 4 on the relay is not used.

If all of the circuits/pins are working as described above, replace the relay.

That is pretty much it... That is all you really need to know to get your fog lamp circuits diagnosed. Let me know if you need further assistance.

I have a few beetle ( vw and audi too) customers who are regulars for headlamps.
I first had this problem on my 96 audi a4 and I came up with a simple solution
If you have fog lamps leave them on all the time. my headlamp failures went way down when I did that.

Try this if you have fog lamps, my customers did not have fog lamps so they could not try it.

Hope this helps, it it does please leave feedback and vote Thank You and Good Luck

are your daytime running lamps working. if they are according to the schematic there are 4 relays, fog lamp, fog lamp cut off, isolation, and daytime running lamp; 2 fuses: right and left, that supply volts to the headlamps. it's a little confusing though, because these schematics might have some mistakes. anyway, it looks like the drl relay.grounds the headlamps when the drl control in the micro processor located in the instrument cluster senses the headlamps have been turned on. this trips the relay and 12vdc is supplied. the dlr might be bad. otherwise, i would think you have a hardwire or connector problem.

If you have not replaced the headlamp with HID, the next thing, are the high beams on ?

If you turn the high beams on, the indicator lamp on the main headlamp switch should go out.

Next thing would be to check the fog lamp relay in the fuse panel ( passenger side kick panel by the fuel inertia switch ).

The fog lamp relay is a half size ISO relay, you should be able to swap with the trailer tow parking lamp relay ( R201 ), to test with.

The fuse you checked is the F17, the fog lamp fuse for Relay R202, correct ?

remove headlamp assembly and you can get it from the top pretty easy