You will need to unbolt bumper cover and pull out on side light is being replaced, doesnt have to come of completely but needs to pull back to get light out,remove the bolts from the top hold light asm, in, then remove top cross plate that holds hood latch and put to the side, then remove bolts and clips holding bumper cover and pull cover foward until you have room to pull light out, then remove the bulb from the rear,this bulbs are 90 degree plug type not the straight one, they dont fit, hope this helps, not bad to do, just sounds so.
SOURCE: replacing headlight bulbs on a 2006 chrysler sebring
Behind the headlight you should see a eletrical wires running to the headlight section. There will be a 2 inch round plastic ring. You grap the back of the bulb and turn it to the right which will release the bulb and the socket. You pull out the bulb and replace it the same way. If this doesnt help then get back to me.
SOURCE: Replace headlight bulb on 2005 Chrysler Sebring.
NO NO! Just reach in with hood open and turn the plastic ring that holds bulb and harness in. Then you can just pull it out and replace it.
SOURCE: 2000 CHRYSLER CONCORDE HEADLIGHT BULB REPLACEMENT
thought i already answered this... must have been for someone else... you should be able to access the bulb from within the engine compartment... if it's on the side of the battery you may have to remove it. do not touch the bulb with your fingers as that shortens the life of it.
Robert
SOURCE: headlight bulb replacement on chrysler 300m
Parts Required: Change all the lights at once, it is not worth the
anguish of doing this over and over again
2 low-beam lights, 2
high-beam/running lights, 2 parking lights - part nos in the owners
manual
A can of diet coke to clean the battery terminals is
also recommended. *optional
Tools required
Ratchet set : 10mm, 7mm, 6mm sockets
Extension 12"
Large Flat
screwdriver, small 4" flat screwdriver and a pair of pliers
Flash-light
12" Magnetic tip telescoping bit
Surgical
gloves
Battery terminal cleaner * optional
Step
1:
First take off the plastic cover that cover that is
across the front of the engine compartment. 6 push pins hold it in
place, Use the long flat screw driver to pry them up and use the pliers
to pull them off.
Gently take the plastic cover off and set
it aside.
Step 2:
Next you will see 3 push pins
that hold the front grill to the engine housing, using the long flat
and a pair of pliers pull the 3 push pins out.
Step 3:
In
the upper area of each wheel well, you will see a large 2.5" rubber
grommet. Pull the rubber grommet out
Step 4:
Locate
a 6mm bolt head that is driven vertically upwards. It is not visible
looking at the wheel well. You have to lay down on the floor and you
will find it about a foot below the grommet and at the edge of the
fender. Use the the ratchet to remove this bolt headed screw. It is
about a 1.5" long. Do this for both sides before going to the next step
Step
5:
Start with the passenger side as it is easier. Use the
flash light and peer into the fender area from the engine compartment.
You will see a nut on a bolt, and a plastic fastener.
Use the 10mm
socket on the 12" extension. Insert it into the hole where the grommet
was, and guide the socket on the nut head. It is about an 1" long. Be
careful as you take it off, else you will be fishing for the bolt in the
fender.
Step 6:
Pull on the plastic fender in the
front till the bolt head and the fastener exit the fender. This has to
be repeated for each side.
Step 7:
Locate 8mm bolt
heads on top of the light assembly. Note it is not the Philips head -
they are to level the lamps. Before undoing the bolts, check the spirit
level on top of the lamp assembly and make a note of the bubbles
position. You will need this when you put the assembly back. Undo both
bolts, they have about an 1" of thread on the top and then you have to
pull it up physically or with the use of the pliers
Step 8:
Pull the headlight assembly out - gently. Don't scratch the paint work
and don't damage the rubber molding around the light assembly.
Step
8a*: If you see any salt build up on the battery terminals, pour
diet coke or pepsi on the terminals, this neutralizes all the salt. Then
pour some water to clean the gunk and then with a paper towel dry it.
Be careful with the paper towel, as it contains sulfuric acid and is
corrosive, put in in a garbage bag immediately. If you feel it has come
into contact with your skin, was vigorously before continuing.
Step
9:
Note the position of the connector before you do anything.
Turn the retaining rings holding each bulb counter clock wise. When you
do this the bulb assembly and the connector will pull free. Two
instances of this. Remove assembly, and place securely on a table
Step
10:
Locate the parking light below and turn the connector
clockwise as you are looking over it. Pull out the old bulb and replace
it. Do this for both sides. Turn on the parking lights to ensure they
work, try the signals too. No sense it putting it all back together and
nothing works. Replace the holder and bulb in reverse order. Note the
unit should fit in nicely and rotate smoothly as you turn counter
clockwise this time.
Step 11:
Using the 4" flat
screwdriver, lift the locking pins gently and push the bulb out, Start
with the low beams. Low beam has only 1 filament, high-beam/running
light has 2 filaments. Put on the pair of surgical gloves, and open the
pack of new bulbs, push the bulbs into the empty sockets, until the
locking pins click into place. Change the low-and high beams.
Step
12:
Insert the bulb with the connector in the position you
noted in step 9. Slide the mounting ring and then lock it into place by
turning it clock-wise as you are looking at it from the rear of the
assembly. Repeat this for both the high beam and low beam. Slide
assembly back into cavity. Repeat this for the other side. Test the
bulbs light correctly
Step 13:
Gently push back the
front plastic so that the bolt and the plastic stud enter the fender.
Pay attention to ensure that the fender lining sits correctly. Using the
12" ratchet extension and the 10mm socket mount the bolt back on and
tighten. Do this for both sides
Step 14:
Using the
ratchet mount the 6mm fastener on to the fender. Do this for both sides
Step
15:
Mount the jack screws on top of the headlight assembly.
Tighten till the bubble in the spirit level returns to the original
position. Don't push the bolt past its maximum. If it doesn't return to
the original level, loosen and adjust the headlamp assembly and
re-tighten. Do this for both headlamps.
Step 16:
Replace the 3 push pins that hold the front grill to the engine
compartment. Replace the large plastic panel that was removed in step 1
and remount it using the 6 push pins.
Voila - you have
changed all the bulbs on the front of the 1999 300M.
Estimated
time:
Novice 2 hours
Advanced 1 hour
Expert 45 mins
If you found this helpful, a quick note to the author George and Anna
at [email protected] would be appreciated.
SOURCE: replacing brake light above trunk on 2006 chrysler
This is quite a process....
Removal
1) Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable.
2) Remove the rear shelf trim panel.
3) Disconnect the CHMSL electrical connector (1).
4) Remove the two mounting fasteners (3) to the CHMSL (2).
Installation is opposite of removal.
Rear shelf trim panel
Removal
1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable.
2) Remover the right and left lower and upper C-pillar trim.
3) Remove the nut that secures the center rear seat belt lower anchor to the stud on the floor panel and feed the seat belt webbing back through the opening in the top of the rear shelf panel trim (2) to the retractor.
4) Remove the push-pin fastener (1) that secures the trim (2) to the rear shelf panel.
5) Slide the trim forward to disengage the S-clip that secures the underside of the trim to the to the center of the shelf panel.
6) Remove the trim from the rear shelf panel.
Installation
1) Position the trim (2) onto the rear shelf panel(3).
2) Slide the rear edge of the trim rearward to engage the lens bezel of the center high-mounted stop lamp and far enough to engage the S-clip that secures the underside of the trim to the center of the shelf panel.
3) Install the push-pin fastener (1) that secures the trim to the rear shelf panel.
4) Pull the center rear seat belt lower anchor and belt webbing from the retractor through the opening the the top of the rear shelf panel trim and back down to the stud on the floor panel.
5) Install and tighten the nut that secures the seat belt lower anchor to the stud on the floor panel. Tighten the nut to 34 N m (25 ft. lbs.).
6) Reinstall the right and left upper and lower C-pillar trim.
7) Connect the battery negative cable.
C-pillar trim removal
Seat removal
Hope this all gets it done for you........
When a headlight burns out on your Chrysler
Crossfire, you do not need to rush to the repair shop to have it
replaced. You can access the headlights in your Crossfire from within
the engine compartment, allowing you to change the headlight yourself.
The Crossfire uses an H7U headlight bulb, which you can find at auto
parts retail stores or at a Chrysler dealership.
Difficulty: Easy
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