How to replace a petrol pump on a mercedes v class 2.8 ambiente

You are not actually adjusting the air flow, just the fuel distributor's response to air flow. This video walks you through how to do that: Duty cycle measurement on Mercedes W124 diagnostic socket faulty control...

Why did you have this part changed? Codes?

If the chocking persistes, I would chech the injectors, or the opperation of the fuel pump and fuel filter.

most possibly it could be the air mass sensor ( air flow meter) first check air flow meter, if you get in to the workshop and fixed the diagnose cpu you can see the fault code, if not the air flow meter next have to check crank angle sensor, if you check the fault code you can see what's wrong, if the fault code like mixtcher information retch or Lin replace air flow meter,

possibly faulty air flow meter, start engine remove wire socket from air flow meter, is it better than before replace air flow meter, is this information helped you?

It's like faulty air flow meter, first start engine is the engine running rough disconnect electric socket from air flow meter is the engine running better than before replace air flow meter. if not need to be diagnose to find the fault code is this information helped you?

don't drive the car without air flow meter connected because the air flow meter signal very impotent for fuel mixture in combustion chamber, in your car faulty air flow meter replace air flow meter, is this information helped you?

You must be having a check engine light or maintenance coming up on the dashboard, if yes the best way to start troubleshooting this problem is to run a diagnostic test on the vehicle.Also after changing the mass air flow meter did you reset the ECM ?If not then this is required after any repair you do.Hope this helps.

Mercedes Benz C-class 180C, the car stops engine each time I break, I have removed the switch connection to the air flow meter and this stops, what is the implication of removing the switch and driving car without an air flow meter?

AS far as i understand it your air flow meter only controles your idle, not your air/fuel mixture. The mixture is controled by the Air/fuel mixture body that sits immidiatly below your fuel distributor. it has a 'tower' that reaches up to a hole in your aircleaner so you can get to it with an allenkey. To set the mixture correct it needs the aircleaner on. that screw changes the pivot point of the arm that gets depressed by the large round disk visual if the aircleaner is of. This is not a throttle butterfly, it mechanically 'measures' the airflow by being sucket down and pushing a plunger upwards into the fuel distributer increasing the amount of petrol to the injectors. You say gas as a supplement... I assume you mean Hydrogen Fuelcell. Because if your trying to 'add' instead of replacing with LPG or Natural Gas you will have a problem as LPG for example needs to ignite earlier. For example if the petrol engine fires at 6 deg BTC on petrol, than converted for LPG it needs to fire at 16 deg BTC on their original plugs (newer plugs are available that allow for an acceptable setting suitable for both fuels but all i everseen when petrol was still present when switching to LPG is an 'engine bay' fire)... But assuming your talking Hydrogen fuel cells as a supplement to try and reduce your fuel consumtion than the element that could create a problem for you is the Lamda probe (Oxygen sensor) in your exhaust as it may think that your fuel mixture is to lean and tries to increase fuel through the cold start injector or the electronic pressure regulator on the fuel distributer. I hope this will help you somewhat.