How do you remove the front axle to get the engine and transmission out

Oil Pan
Material
Item Specification Motorcraft® High Performance Engine RTV Silicone
TA-357 WSE-M4G323-A6 Motorcraft® Metal Surface Prep
ZC-31-A Motorcraft® SAE 5W-20 Premium Synthetic Blend Motor Oil (US); Motorcraft® SAE 5W-20 Super Premium Motor Oil (Canada)
XO-5W20-QSP (US); CXO-5W20-LSP12 (Canada) WSS-M2C945-A Motorcraft® Silicone Gasket Remover
ZC-30 Removal
NOTICE: During engine repair procedures, cleanliness is extremely important. Any foreign material, including any material created while cleaning gasket surfaces, that enters the oil passages, coolant passages or the oil pan, may cause engine failure.
All vehicles

1. With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02.

1. Disconnect the battery ground cable. For additional information, refer to Section 414-01.

1. Remove the oil level indicator.

1. NOTE: This step does not apply if the engine front cover is removed. Loosen the 4 upper bellhousing-to-engine bolts 5 mm (0.19 in).

1. If equipped, remove the bolts and the skid plate.

1. Remove the bolt for the transmission cooler tube bracket from the radiator support.

1. Remove the drain plug and drain the engine oil.
   • Install the drain plug and tighten to 27 Nm (20 lb-ft).

1. Remove and discard the engine oil filter.

1. NOTE: This step does not apply if the engine front cover is removed. Remove the nut and the transmission cooler line bracket from the engine front cover stud bolt.

1. NOTE: This step does not apply if the engine front cover is removed. Detach the generator wiring harness from the engine front cover.

1. Remove the starter motor. For additional information, refer to Section 303-06.

1. Detach the starter motor wiring harness retainer from the oil pan.

1. Remove the 4 nuts and bolts and the crossmember.

Four Wheel Drive (4X4) vehicles

1. Position a suitable hydraulic jack under the front axle. Securely strap the jack to the axle.

1. Remove the upper front axle carrier mounting bushing bolt.

1. Remove the axle shaft housing carrier bushing bolt.

1. NOTE: Front driveshaft removed for clarity only. Remove the lower front axle carrier mounting bushing bolt.

1. NOTICE: Use care when lowering the front axle housing, or the vacuum lines to the axle solenoid may become disconnected or damaged. Lower the axle to allow clearance for the oil pan to be removed.

All vehicles

1. NOTE: This step does not apply if the engine front cover is removed. Loosen the engine-to-bellhousing bolt above the starter motor 5 mm (0.19 in).

1. Remove the oil pan-to-bellhousing bolt from below the starter motor.

1. NOTE: This step does not apply if the engine front cover is removed. Loosen the 2 LH bellhousing-to-engine bolts 5 mm (0.19 in).

1. Remove the 2 LH bellhousing-to-oil pan bolts.

1. NOTE: This step does not apply if the engine front cover is removed. Loosen the 2 transmission crossmember nuts.

1. NOTE: This step does not apply if the engine front cover is removed. Slide the transmission rearward 5 mm (0.19 in).

1. NOTE: This step does not apply if the engine front cover is removed. Remove the 4 lower engine front cover bolts.

1. Remove the 16 oil pan bolts.

1. NOTE: LH rear shown, RH front similar. Using a suitable pry tool, locate the 2 pry pads at the LH and RH sides of the oil pan and pry the oil pan loose and remove.

1. NOTE: The generator wiring harness retainer is being removed for clearance to install the oil pan. Detach the generator wiring harness retainer from the engine block.

1. NOTICE: Only use a 3M™ Roloc® Bristle Disk (2-in white, part number 07528) to clean the oil pan. Do not use metal scrapers, wire brushes or any other power abrasive disk to clean. These tools cause scratches and gouges that make leak paths. Clean the engine oil pan using a 3M™ Roloc® Bristle Disk (2-in white, part number 07528) in a suitable tool turning at the recommended speed of 15,000 rpm.
   • Thoroughly wash the oil pan to remove any foreign material, including any abrasive particles created during the cleaning process.

1. NOTICE: Do not use wire brushes, power abrasive discs or 3M™ Roloc® Bristle Disk (2-in white, part number 07528) to clean the cylinder block and engine front cover sealing surfaces. These tools cause scratches and gouges that make leak paths. They also cause contamination that causes premature engine failure. Remove all traces of the gasket. Clean the sealing surfaces of the cylinder block and engine front cover in the following sequence.
   1. Remove any large deposits of silicone or gasket material.
   1. Apply silicone gasket remover and allow to set for several minutes.
   1. Remove the silicone gasket remover. A second application of silicone gasket remover may be required if residual traces of silicone or gasket material remain.
   1. Apply metal surface prep to remove any remaining traces of oil and to prepare the surfaces to bond. Do not attempt to make the metal shiny. Some staining of the metal surfaces is normal.

Installation This is for 2011 3.7L don't know if 012 is the same?

no engine stated, they even have diesel. or 3.7L GAS.
I toss my first coil, land on 3.7L V6.
great question, like the very first ever.
most just do it and get in trouble. vast posts in this.
but whats up, what is wrong, what part failed.?
this is best to know, so we can send you the official chapter on this from jeep.
sure use jackstands, never jacks only and never bricks .
04,KJ jeep 4wd pan off.
in chapter 9 ,under diagnostics, and pan leaks. that?
it says read
Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN -
REMOVAL). page 1555 (3.7L)
and i quote:
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect and isolate negative battery cable.
2. Install engine support fixture.
3. Raise and support vehicle.
4. Remove front wheel assemblies.
5. Remove skid plate (if equipped). (Refer to 13 -
FRAME & BUMPERS/FRAME/FRONT SKID
PLATE - REMOVAL)
6. Drain engine oil.
7. Mark adjustment cam position of front lower control
arm bolts.
8. Remove front lower control arm bolts. (Refer to 2 -
SUSPENSION/FRONT/LOWER CONTROL ARM -
REMOVAL)
9. Disconnect LH tie rod. (Refer to 19 - STEERING/
LINKAGE/TIE ROD END - REMOVAL)
10. Disconnect LH lower ball joint (Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/
FRONT/LOWER BALL JOINT -
REMOVAL)
11. Disconnect LH strut clevis (Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/
FRONT/CLEVIS BRACKET - REMOVAL)
12. Remove LH front axle (Refer to 3 - DIFFERENTIAL
& DRIVELINE/HALF SHAFT - REMOVAL)
13. Remove front axle brace bolts.
14. Remove front prop shaft. (Refer to 3 - DIFFERENTIAL
& DRIVELINE/PROPELLER SHAFT/
PROPELLER SHAFT - REMOVAL)
15. Drain front axle.
16. Using a transmission jack, support front axle.
17. Remove axle bracket bolts. (Refer to 3 - DIFFERENTIAL & DRIVELINE/FRONT AXLE - REMOVAL)
18. With RH axle still in place, remove front differential.
19. Remove transmission oil cooler line bracket.
20. Remove engine to transmission stiffening bracket.
21. Position Special Tool 8534 on fender lip and align the slots in the brackets with the fender mounting holes.
22. Secure brackets to the fender using four M6 X 1.0 X 25 MM flanged cap screws.
23. Tighten the thumbscrews to secure the sleeves to the support tube.
24. Secure the support tube in an upright position.
25. Assemble the flat washer, thrust bearing, hook and T handle.
26. Using the M10 X 1.75 mm flanged nut supplied with the support fixture, secure the chain to the front engine
lifting stud.
27. Loosen engine mounts.
28. Remove oil pan bolts.
29. Seperate oil pan (1) from engine.
30. Move oil pan to one side, remove oils sump bolt and windage tray bolts,
NOTE: Do not pry on oil pan or oil pan gasket. Gasket is integral to engine windage tray and does not come
out with oil pan.
end quote, (off)

You need a lift, a hanger to hold the engine from the top a transmission jack and about 5 hrs.Disconnect battery. hang the engine from the support hanger. Remove front wheels. loosen and remove axle nuts. Loosen spindles and disconnect tie rod ends. Disconnect ABS sensors. Remove the axles. Disconnect everything from the subframe if equipped. Disconnect the transmission mount and drop the engine down to access the bell housing bolts. Remove bolts, after disconnecting all electrical and clutch controls. Support the transmission with a jack and remove. Reverse process to install.

Trans-axle transmissions are transmissions and differentials in one housing with the axles coming directly out of that housing, its the housing that bolts to the engine with 2 axles coming out.
Only in these layouts:
front-engine, front-wheel, rear-engine, rear-wheel drive and rear mid-engine, rear-wheel drive.

Raise engine with special tool 00 0 200 approx. 5 mm.
- Remove suction filter housing. Remove engine splash guard.
- Drain engine oil. On vehicles with automatic transmission:
- Disconnect oil lines from automatic transmission and from oil pan.
- Release guide tube for dipstick.

Note: M52TU and M54 only.
- Detach return hose from cyclone oil separator on oil dipstick guide tube.
- Replace O-ring.
- Remove front end reinforcement.
- Detach steeling spindle from steering gear.
- Remove vane pump for power steering unit (lines remain connected).
- Disconnect plug connection to oil level sensor.
- Loosen top and unfasten bottom of left and right engine mounts.

E46 4WD only
- Remove left and right swivel bearings.
- Remove output shafts. Remove front propeller shaft.
- Remove front axle differential.
- Detach brackets for left and right control arms from engine carrier.
- Release retaining brackets for left and right stabilizer bars.
- Unfasten screw connection on front axle support and lower the front axle support.

Note: There is no need to detach the steering gear from the front axle support.

- Unfasten oil sump screws at transmission and engine ends.
- Lower and remove oil sump.
Sealing faces clean and free of seal debris.
Apply approx.3 mm wide, 2 mm high coat of Drei Bond 1209 sealing agent to the area around seams.

Installation:

1. Replace gasket
2. Install oil sump.
3. Insert all oil sump screws.
4. Insert screws in transmission end without preload at this stage.
5. Tighten down screws in engine end.
6. Tighten down screws in transmission end.

E60 Removing And Installing, Sealing Or Replacing Oil Sump (M54)

Necessary preliminary tasks. -
- Remove intake filter housing
- Remove guide tube for oil dipstick
- Lowering front axle support
- Drain off engine oil
- Disconnect plug connection to oil level sensor.

On vehicles with automatic transmission:
- Detach oil lines from automatic transmission and from oil pan.
- Unfasten oil pan screws at transmission and engine ends.
- Lower and remove oil pan.

Installation:
Sealing faces clean and free of seal debris.
Apply approx.3 mm wide, 2 mm high coat of Drei Bond 1209 sealing agen to the area around seams.

Installation:

1. Replace seal.
2. Install oil sump.
3. Insert all screws on transmission end, without preload at this stage.

1. Tighten down screws on engine end.
2. Tighten screws on transmission end.

Or take it to a dealer....

Clutch replacement will requre the removal of the transmission. If it is a rear wheel drive the trans can be removed fairly easily. Front wheel drive autos have the engine and transmission mounted in a "transerve" (across) fashion and require more time for removal. rear wheel drive requires the removal of the driveshaft (not difficult) and the front wheel drive requires the removal of the drive axles( can be difficlt). If your not mechanicly inclined and have a fair assortment of tools and equipment, this job is best left to a quailified person. You need Jack stands, floor jack, transmission adaptor, and if it's a front wheel drive, you will need an inpact gun to loosen the axle nuts on the drive axles.

Jack up car and apply e-brake. car will roll if one of the front tires leaves the ground. remove tire , spindal nut and lower ball joint bolts. remove axle from hub then use a prybar to pop it out of trans. the passenger side will have a braket holding axle to engine , remove bolts from braket or squeeze snap-ring to rmove axle from braket.

Hope this is not your first, if it is you picked a tough one to learn on. Here goes:1 disconnect negative battery cable 2 Raise and support the car, a lift is the best tool for the job here, but you can do this on jackstands, they just need to be tall ones at least 2 feet of clearance under the car. 3 Install engine holding fixture, this supports the back of the engine when you remove the crossmember and trans.4 remove left front wheel, seperate ball joint remove drive axle retaining nut then remove drive axle from transaxle by prying at joint closest to transaxle. Do not pull on the outer joint or you will pull the inner joint apart. 5 place transmission jack under transaxle pan. 6 remove bolts from crossmember then remove the crossmember 7 remove inspection cover then remove three torque converter bolts 8 remove transmission cooling lines from fittings on transmission 9 remove shift cable 10 unplug 4 wire plug from front side of transmission 11 remove 6 bolts from bell housing 12 remove speedometer cable 13 remove three bolts from around right hand drive axle, then pry axle loose from transmission. You do not need to remove axle from car, just let it hang.14 pull transmission away from engine far enough to disengage the alignment dowels and finish pulling right hand drive axle from transmission housing then lower the transmission to the floor 15 pull transmission from under vehicle.

These instructions are for a 5.3L. Unless it is a V6 or diesel, the instructions will be similar if you have a different gas V8.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable
2. Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
3. Remove the protective shields as necessary.
4. Remove the starter solenoid shield.
5. Remove the starter to transmission close out cover bolt.
6. Disconnect the engine oil level sensor connection.
7. Remove the front axle mounting bracket through bolt nut, if equipped with four wheel drive (4WD).
8. Reposition the front axle mounting bracket through bolt until the bolt tip is flush with the support bushing. Do not remove the bolt, if equipped with 4WD.
9. Remove the mounting bolts from the engine block.
10. Slide the starter forward until the starter clears the transmission.
11. Remove the starter transmission close out cover
1. Disconnect the positive battery cable and wiring harness from the starter.
2. Remove the starter from the vehicle.
1. Connect the positive battery cable to the starter. Tighten Tighten the nut to 16 N.m (12 lb in) .
2. Install the starter transmission close out cover.
1. Install the mounting bolts to the engine block. Tighten Tighten the bolts to 50 N.m (37 lb ft) .
2. Reposition the front axle mounting bracket through bolt until the bolt is fully seated. if equipped with 4WD.
3. Install the front axle mounting bracket through bolt nut, if equipped with 4WD. Tighten Tighten the nut to 90 N.m (67 lb ft) .
4. Disconnect the engine oil level sensor connection.
5. Install the starter to transmission close out cover bolt.
6. Install the starter solenoid shield.
7. Install the protective shields as necessary.
8. Remove the safety stands.
9. Lower the vehicle.
10. Connect the negative battery cable. Tighten Tighten the bolts to 17 N.m (13 lb ft) .

Follow the steps below.

1. Drain the engine oil.

2. Remove or disconnect the following:

Negative battery cable

2 Top intake manifold bracket bolts

Front 3 axle housing mounting bolts, 4WD only

Left front bushing from the axle housing mount and lower the front axle housing

Both gusset plates from the engine

Transmission under cover

Engine under cover

Oil pan mounting bolts and using a scrapper tool separate the oil pan

Oil pan

Oil strainer assembly

Oil baffle