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With drum brakes the right rear brake line gets hot ( close to exhaust pipe ) and occasionally can fail to release fluid after applying the brakes. This causes the brake to drag and overheat. The fix is to replace that line. If the brake drag is cured by releasing pressure from the bleeder this is probably the problem.With drum brakes the right rear brake line gets hot ( close to exhaust pipe ) and occasionally can fail to release fluid after applying the brakes. This causes the brake to drag and overheat. The fix is to replace that line. If the brake drag is cured by releasing pressure from the bleeder this is probably the problem.
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If it's drum brake, remove the drum and check for dust collected inside the drum. also check the emergency brake cables for free of rust and are not binding
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If rear brakes are drum-type it is possible the shoes are jammed on the drums. They are normally retracted from there by springs, but if there is breakage or corrosion they can jam in place. One place corrosion occurs is in the wheel brake cylinders, so then the pistons do not return properly,
The same can happen with disc brakes as the pads are normally pulled back after application, just a little, by the springiness of the rubber parts on the pistons. So if there is corrosion in the calipers the pistons can stick.
Then, if disc brake pads are worn right down, I have heard of cases where the piston popped right out of the caliper on heavy braking, or else turned a bit sideways and jammed on. It should never happen, but apparently did.
If disc brakes you should be able to see this when the wheel is off. The calipers can then be removed. If drum brakes try hammering on the outside rim of the drums, this way and that, to get enough de-jamming to get the drums off.
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Most people do not remove the rear rotors and inspect the Emergency Brake shoes. These often peel off the metal backing on the shoe and jam inside the interior Drum of the rotor. Some people will hear a rusty grinding noise after pulling away from a stop.
These brakes have the old "star-wheel" adjusters and may need to be adjusted more loosely to remove the rotor. Its a bad system in my opinion; the drum always rusts and corrodes and the Ebrake shoes are banana peel thin. With corrosion, the drum acts like a grinder and chews up the brake shoes. Some other configurations use a mechanical link on the caliper to make the service brakes act in an Emergency. It will override a hydraulic failure, but you still need good pads on the caliper.
Make sure the parking break is off, has the cable seized? If the vehicle has been parked with the parking break on for a long time, the brake shoes can stick to the drum!!!!(yes they can hold that tight). If this is what caused the problem, you can try banging the wheel, while trying to reverse the vehicle (only if they are steel wheels), If not take the wheel off and work your way round the drum banging as you go. Other possible cause is a brake linning or linkage come off and jammed the drum, if thats the case good luck, you will possibly have to result to cutting gear and damage
If releasing the parking brake does not get the rear wheels to release, then you either have a parking brake cable that is badly corroded and sticking, or you have internal problems in the rear brakes like broken springs, etc that are jamming the brakes. You will have to inspect your rear brakes and paking brake cables to find out which it is.
You should be able to pull on the parking brake cable and get movement easily. It depends on if your Caravan is equipped with front disc and rear drum brakes or if it is equipped with 4-wheel disc brakes. If it has 4-wheel disc, then you could also have a bad rear caliper.
the car came with both disk and drum setups on the rear, it depends on what was ordered, the most common is the front disk and rear drum, but many did have the 4 wheel disk setup.
The Condision you Describe I Believe to be On the HYDROLIC SIDE of the System And Normaly Requires Replacement of Wheel Cylinder,Brake Caliper,, or Possible HOSE or LINE Also With it Wearing Brakes out THAT FAST It Will REQUIRE Drum or Disc Replacement of THAT Drum/Disc Due to EXTREME HEAT Conditions. I Recommend Replacing in PAIRS for Better & More ACURATE THICKNESS in FRICTION AREA
This Model Is Built with DRUM & DISC Brake SYSTEMS so More than A Few Causes Will Apply Here. IF it is A DISC System Then A FROZEN or STICKINN PISTON in the CALIPER Would Cause this, ALSO a PERFECTLY GOOD LOOKING BRAKE HOSE (Rubber) At Said Wheel Can Be BLOCKED INSIDE and in BOTH Systems A SMASHED Brake line (Steal) will Cause this. The PARK BRAKE Cable on that side ALSO will cause this.
LAST I Believe is A STICKY or LEAKY WHEEL CYLINDER Will DO It
IN ALL CASES REPLACEMENT OF PARTS SHOULD BE IN PAIRS AS BRAKE SYSTEM IS CREUCIAL I Hope this is of Some Help to You. Feel Free to Email ma at rejakwilson @ aol.com
With drum brakes the right rear brake line gets hot ( close to exhaust pipe ) and occasionally can fail to release fluid after applying the brakes. This causes the brake to drag and overheat. The fix is to replace that line. If the brake drag is cured by releasing pressure from the bleeder this is probably the problem.
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