1992 Honda Accord Logo

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Anonymous Posted on Jul 29, 2017

No electrical power anywhere in car. Turned on ig...

No electrical power anywhere in car. Turned on ignition charging lights came on starter turned once or twice then everything just quit - no dashboard lights no headlights no hazards - nothing working electrically - checked main under hood fuse box - fuses seemed ok - acts like may be under dash fuse problem - also checked cables on battery - seemed ok but a little buildup & positive cable a little loose

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RagingDuck729

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  • Posted on Feb 17, 2020
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You've rules out many causes, I would have the battery load tested...I belive autozone will do this for free. If the battery is bad then replace it then have your charging system checked to make sure it wasn't the alternator that killed the battery in the first place.

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  • Honda Master 7,501 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 10, 2019
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Check battery connections with a meter.

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Anonymous

  • 185 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 24, 2008

SOURCE: 1991 Civic starting problem

Sizzling is not good!! Coming from under the dash is definitely not good. The relay that controls the starter is called a solenoid and is physically located on the starter. If the car started OK before the battery went dead I think it's safe to say the solenoid is not the problem.

If you yourself can operate a voltmeter, Or find someone that can do this, the only thing I can suggest is to try to find what cooked under the dash. (No easy task).

You can jumper the starter by getting a device at an auto parts store called a remote starter switch.
Follow the instructions that come with it.

Hope this helps Good luck Loringh.

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Anonymous

  • 2 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 11, 2009

SOURCE: charging problem

Possible solution. It could be the belt tensioner. It might not hold the belt tight enough to have a consistent charge to the battery through the alternator. I had to replace the one on my 91 accord and that solved my problem.

Anonymous

  • 290 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 01, 2009

SOURCE: Whole Electrical system shuts down when ignition key turned

Try cleaning the battery connectors at both ends and make sure the ground at the frame is clear of rust. If that check out, drop the starter and have it bench tested

Anonymous

  • 181 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 30, 2009

SOURCE: 2003 HONDA PILOT

NEW WIRES OR NEW TERMINALS REPLACE THE BATTERY

Anonymous

  • 466 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 09, 2010

SOURCE: No electrical power from 1999 Honda Accord with

If you only have a problem with the dash lights on the right side of the dash to the passenger side there is a lid to take off and there are a fuse for the fuse 10 10Amps this is the illumination of the panel. Thansk good luck

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1999 Toyota Townace Electrical problem.

There are fuses and relays everywhere. You need an auto electrician.

https://www.google.com/search?q=auto+electrician+near+me

  1. main motor relay.
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  • CHARGE - battery charging system (lamps);
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  • ECU + B - (electric control unit battery) - electric control unit powered by battery;
  • DOME - interior lighting;
  • ECU + IG - (electric control unit ignition) - electric control unit for power supply from the ignition lock;
  • DEFOG - rear window heating;
  • HEAD (LH) - left head light;
  • ENGINE - consumers - distributor, main relay, control units;
  • A / C - air conditioner;
  • WIPER - windscreen wipers;
  • TURN - turn indicator system;
  • HEAD (RH) - right head light;
  • RADIO - radio;
  • CIG - watch, cigarette lighter;
  • FOG - fog lights;
  • HAZARD - alarm, sound signal.

Fuse box diagram Toyota Town Ace Noah and ...

FuseAndRelay.com https://fuseandrelay.com > toyota > town-ace-noah

The main fuse and relay box in the passenger compartment is located under the dashboard, on the driver's side, behind the protective cover. Type 1. Photo - an ...

Location · ‎Type 2 · ‎Passenger compartment fuse...
tip

Engine electricals



3) Spark: From battery to spark plug

The battery is the source of stored electrical power in the vehicle. A voltmeter between the terminals of a healthy battery should read 12.5 volts. A reading of 12.2 volts indicates a flat battery and a reading of 10.4 volts indicates a dead cell (each cell beingabout 2 volts). A battery should be capable of sustaining high current, as needed by the starter motor when turning the engine over. When the car is running the voltage measured across the terminals shouldbe between 14.2 and 14.5 volts. The value is the voltage being supplied to the battery by the output charge from the alternator. THis charging voltage should not alter much when additional load is applied to the battery (head lights on etc).
When the ignition key is turned to the second position,often referred to as 'key on engine off', all car functions are powered up including lights and fuel pump. When the key is turned to position 3 many ancillary functions are temporarily interrupted to allow the battery to meet the extra needs of the starter motor. Electrical charge from the starter switch passes through a master fuse and starter relay before energizing the starter solenoid. The starter solenoid moves the pinion gear on the starter motor to engage with peripheral teeth of the flywheel. Simultaneously, heavy copper contacts are bridged by this same movement causing the starter motor coils to become energized thereby turning the engine over.
During the ignition process electrical charge passes through the primary windings of the ignition coil(s). The engine control unit (ECU), taking signalsfrom the engine crank position sensor, collapses the field of the coil(s) appropriate to the cylinder requiring ignition. As the field collapses the secondary coil windings discharge very high voltage through the high tension lead to the spark plug. The charge is so high that at the spark plug gap the charge jumps across with a spark. The compressed fuel air mixture in the cylinder is ignited by this spark.
Checking the spark process starts with the plugs. The condition of the removed plugs reveals a lot about the nature of the ignition within the cylinders. Dark sooty deposits indicate overly rich fuel air mix and glazed plugs indicate overly hot lean mixtures. Removing the plugs (with the fuel pump relay unplugged) and holding the screw threads to the cylinder head whilst turning the engine over will reveal the quality of spark. The spark holders and leads should be examined for discharge through the insulation to the cylinder head. Removing the leads from the coil should reveal sparks emanating from the exposed connectors. Failure to see sparks at this point indicatesa failed coil (especially if neighboring coils show good spark) or a failed crank sensor if all coils show no spark.
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2007 Chevy Impala, clicking noise starts BEFORE key in ignition. Why?

If your 2007 Chevy Impala is making a clicking noise before the key is even inserted into the ignition, it could be caused by a few different issues. Some potential causes include:
  1. Faulty starter motor: The starter motor is responsible for starting the engine when the ignition is turned on. If the starter motor is faulty or has worn out, it may make a clicking noise as it tries to engage with the flywheel.
  2. Loose or damaged starter motor relay: The starter motor relay is an electrical component that sends power to the starter motor when the ignition is turned on. If the relay is loose or damaged, it may cause a clicking noise.
  3. Low battery: If the battery is low on charge or has gone bad, it may not have enough power to start the engine, causing a clicking noise.
  4. Other electrical issues: There may be other electrical issues, such as a loose connection or a problem with the ignition switch, that are causing the clicking noise.
To determine the cause of the clicking noise, it is recommended to bring your vehicle to a mechanic or a dealership for further diagnosis and repair. They will be able to test the starter motor, battery, and other electrical components to determine the source of the problem and recommend the appropriate repairs.
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1988 FXRS IGNITION SWITH HAS 3 POLES: L B IG . BIKE HAS 3 WIRES: WHITE RED GREEN. WHERE DO WIRES GO ON POLES?

Red is from the battery, put it on the B, for battery post. Turn the switch on to the 1st position and touch the other wires, first the green, then the white, to the post that you have power to with the switch on, the IG is ignition that is power to the coil and the other is the starter solenoid. Touch the green wire to the hot switch post and you'll either crank the engine or turn the lights on. That's just to test which of the green and white are the ones that go on the IG post. and the other on the L post which is the starter solenoid.
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I have an 85 ford econovan maxi. I left my lights on on day so I removed battery, charged it up and refitted it. Now I have no power to ignition, nothing lights up when ignition switch is turned on. I...

Follow positive battery connections, may go to fusible links. Use a test lite and check for voltage. Make sure battery connections, on both ends are good, voltage and ground.
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Starter gets no power when ignition is turned

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I have a 1984 dodge D150, not charging, battery is good,charges with charger\r\ntruck starts and runs pretty good,but is running off of battery, NEW altenater,regulator,and belts belts are tight,replaced...

The first thing you need to do is stop wasting your money by replacing parts. Then get a volt-ohm meter and a test light to test the circuits between the battery, the alternator, the ignition switch, the starter relay and the voltage regulator. (a.k.a. Charging System Circuits)

To start, the "B+" or "BATT" terminal on the alternator (large black wire) MUST have a solid, direct connection to the battery. Check for the proper voltage here. Then, the red wire on the alternator at the "F2" terminal should be HOT at all times. If not, you probably still have a bad fuse link that you missed. The "F1" terminal on the alternator (Light Green wire) is known as your "FIELD" wire. It comes from the "IG" terminal at the voltage regulator. It should be hot any time the key is in the ON position. If not, your voltage regulator is not working or your ignition switch is not providing power to the regulator. Finally, The "F" terminal (Red wire) at the regulator should be hot any time the ignition switch is in the ON position. This actually gets it's power from the starter relay, which gets its power from the ignition switch.

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I have changed the starter solinoid and now i dont

Make sure the starter relay is working properly. Check to see if you are getting power at the relay + cable. Then check to see if you are getting power from the relay to the starter, you may have to turn on the ignition or get someone to turn the switch over in start position. If you're getting power here, then your problem is elsewhere. Are you getting the car to start or just no electrical such as lights and etc?
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2001 mustang gt,all access. work fully charged

I would suspect the starter solenoid has failed.

A starter solenoid (or starter relay) is the part of an automobile which relays a large electric current to the starter motor, which in turn sets the engine in motion. In many vehicles the solenoid also engages the starter pinion with the ring gear of the engine.

The starter solenoid receives a large electric current from the car battery and a small electric current from the ignition switch. When the ignition switch is turned on, a small electric current is sent to the starter solenoid. This causes the starter solenoid to close a pair of heavy contacts, thus relaying a large electric current to the starter motor, which in turn sets the engine in motion. The starter motor is an electric motor that initiates piston motion in a car's internal combustion engine before it can power itself.
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1992 cadillac sedan de ville no electrical power anywhere in car

Check power connection by fuse panels under hood just below the center of windshield
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