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Posted on May 18, 2010
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Engine cuts off after several minutes despite enough fuel, new spark plugs and no physical indication of overheating or engine wear.

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kirtec auto

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  • Mazda Master 1,348 Answers
  • Posted on May 18, 2010
kirtec auto
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There is on the throttle body,a unit called an idle air control valve.it controls the idle speed,and it results in a very low idle or stall if defective.you could have a bad cap rotor or distributor or coil.There is also the crank and cam sensors,but they would set a check engine code if bad.

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I've got a 1995 Nissan Altima 2.4L Automatic. I can start it up and let it idle for like 5 minutes or drive it maybe 2 miles and it will just die.

This issue could be caused by several different factors, some of which include:
  1. Fuel delivery issue: The engine may not be getting enough fuel, which could be caused by a clogged fuel filter, a faulty fuel pump, or a malfunctioning fuel pressure regulator.
  2. Ignition system issue: The engine may not be getting enough spark, which could be caused by a faulty ignition coil, a bad spark plug, or a problem with the distributor.
  3. Engine overheating: If the engine overheats, it may cause the engine to stall and not restart.
  4. Vacuum leak: A vacuum leak in the engine could cause the engine to stall, especially at idle.
  5. Mass air flow sensor: A faulty mass air flow sensor can cause the engine to stall.
You may need to diagnose the issue further with the help of a mechanic or by using a diagnostic tool.
tip

Engine Diagnosis Old Spark Plug Condition

Old spark plugs removed from your engine can tell a lot about the condition of the engine. Experienced mechanics can use this information to help diagnose several conditions simply by examining the state of the old plugs.

This tip is written as a useful guide to help diagnose engine problems and give a general indicator of the state of your engine. If you have ever wondered what you can tell from the condition of your old spark plugs please see the illustrations below.

As an example note that conditions such as over advanced ignition timing, lean fuel mixture or intake manifold leaks can often be determined from a plug that shows absence of deposits and a burnt or eroded electrode. However, sometimes this condition is caused by incorrect spark plugs having been fitted at some stage and in this case can be easily rectified by replacing the spark plugs with plugs that are in the correct heat range.

More serious conditions can be determined from oily deposits which indicate that oil is leaking past the valves guides or piston rings. In this case the mechanical fault will need to be rectified which will involve an engine strip down. These symptoms when seen on old spark plugs are a very significant diagnostic pointer as to how the engine has been performing up to this point and can help identify faults in the engine itself

The first picture in the illustration is of a healthy spark plug. Please follow through each of the images and you can compare your old spark plug against each of the images for a description of the engine problems that are associated with it.

Thanks for viewing my Tip.



Normal: Here we see a normal used plug which should be a brown to greyish color with only slight electrode wear. This plug has been operating correctly and is the in correct heat range for the vehicle.
3850b9d.jpg



Worn: On this plug you can see a rounded electrode. The normal colour deposits are seen but this plug has simply been in the vehicle too long.
f0d90a4.jpg



Plug Run Too Hot. The symptoms here are a blistered white insulator with an eroded electrode and an absence of deposits.
Causes: Incorrect heat range plug used, over advanced ignition timing, lean fuel mixture, intake manifold vaccuum leak, sticking valves or insufficient engine cooling.
417cde3.jpg



Carbon Deposits: Dry sooty deposits like this indicate either a rich fuel mixture or a weak ignition. This is a good indicator of a clogged air filter or a problem in the fuel or engine management system. Also check for ignition problems.
e1aa79d.jpg



Preignition: Here we see melted electrodes. You will note the insulator is white. This is an indication of severe misfiring and overheating. Can be an indicator of severe engine damage. Causes: Check for over advanced ignition timing, lean fuel mixture, insufficient engine cooling and lack of lubrication in the engine. Also check correct heat range plug has been used.
a83b8c6.jpg



Ash Deposits: Encrusting of light brown deposits observed on the electrodes. Causes: Oil or fuel additives - try changing the gas brand that you are using. Severe cases often indicate engine valve seal problems whereby oil is seeping into the combustion chambers.
94c22b6.jpg



High Speed Glazing: Insulator looks glazed and yellow. Condition is associated with sudden temperature rises from hard accelleration of the engine. Plugs in this condition can cause misfires at high speeds. These plugs will need to be changed and consider replacement with a colder temperature range plug.
17d5093.jpg




Oil Deposits: Indicative of oil leaking past the valve guides or piston rings and fouling the plug. Vehicle will run badly. Engine will need stripdown and repair.
2550cb7.jpg




Detonation: Insulator appears cracked or chipped. May have resulted from poor gapping technique which has damaged insulator. Can lead to piston damage. Replace plugs and ensure fuel anti knock values are correct. Ensure plugs are carefully and correctly gapped.
e2dc4d9.jpg




Gap Bridging: In this case deposits can clearly be seen lodged between the electrodes. The plug will not fire and this results in a dead cylinder. Clean or replace the plug.
ab865a7.jpg
0helpful
1answer

New plugs new wires new lgnition core module starts up runs for while then cut off when driving it then have to wait 30 to 45 minutes before it starts back up please help me with this problem. A 1993 GEO...

When problem is ongoing, if it cranks good but won't start, have a helper crank it while you check for spark at the plugs-- proper fuel pressure and fuel injector, where applicable. If engine is hot, wear gloves, that's what I do. If your missing everything, have to check pickup soil and ignition module in distributor. If you narrow it down to one system, then you can concentrate on that system, fuel--spark--whatever.
0helpful
1answer

Theres oil in my spark plugs. I cleaned them and was fine for a minute. now its back.

Oil on a spark plug indicates either worn valve guides or worn compression rings. It is also remotely possible that the head gasket is letting oil get in if the engine was severely overheated and warped the head
0helpful
1answer

Engine starts cutting out when accellerating to get up to speed or to pass someone.

Try several things...

Fuel injector cleaner
New fuel filters
Check for vacuum leaks
New spark plugs and wires
0helpful
1answer

Trouble shooting for thunderbird sc

The most common problem for engines not starting could be a weak battery. Is your battery fully charged/not old? All batteries are rated for a certain lifespan, varying from three to five years. If it's been past that since the battery was replaced, it could be that your battery isn't holding enough charge anymore. You could check this by jumpstarting the car. If your car starts while connected to somebody else's battery, then you know battery isn't providing quite enough power.

If your engine is getting enough power from the battery though, it's possible that it's not sparking correctly. When was the last time the spark plugs and wires were replaced? If it's been more than two or three years, they can begin to grow faulty. Spark plugs get replaced when you bring your car in for a tune-up.

Otherwise, it could be that the engine isn't receiving enough air, or enough fuel. If the air filter is extremely dirty and clogged, it's possible that there's not enough air reaching the engine. But for that to happen, the air filter must be really quite dirty. Has the air filter been replaced lately? For most cars replacing an air filter is really easy to do, it generally only takes a screwdriver, five or ten minutes, and $15 for a new filter.

The other possibility is a bad fuel pump, which makes it hard for the car to deliver fuel from the tank to the engine. Since your car is a 1994, it's possible that the fuel pump has been growing faulty. I had a 1997 vehicle with a starting problem where getting a new fuel pump solved the problem. If you take it into a shop to replace the fuel pump, make sure they change the fuel filter too.

It's possible, though I'd say less likely, that your starter is getting old, and that it's not cranking as well as it used to. If it's not cranking fast enough, the engine won't catch and start.

Starting problems are always annoying and may be caused by different problems. One unusual one I've encountered is that the keyhole was wearing out. You start a car by inserting and turning the key, and when you release the key the car is supposed to keep running, but in this case, if the key was released to far by a millimeter or two, the engine died. The keyhole was wearing out. Who knows? Perhaps you might solve your problem just by fiddling with the key a little bit. Remove it and then reinsert it several times and try again.
0helpful
1answer

What are bad fuel filter symptons

Several symptoms.
1. Engine light could come on because of a lean condition.
2. Hesitation
3. Poor mileage.
4. Burnt spark plugs, white or cream colored.
5. Overheating.
6. Could cause a no start condition if it is bad enough.
1helpful
1answer

Dfvgfdv

For something like this it could be a number of differnet things. I suggest that the next time your vehicle cuts out on you check for sufficent ignition spark. you can do this by removing a spark plug wire from a spark plug and holding it close to a ground on the engine (or if your brave enough you can grab it lol). and if you do not have spark then i would suggest to replace the ignition coil. if you do have spark then i would check for proper fuel pressure.
0helpful
1answer

Engine dies Suddenly

hey they all do, eventually and for sure never doing tune-ups.
ever get one in the last decade, no >? wow.
then posting with no engine stated, and is and ENGINE problem
and no country stated,
we have (USA) 3 engines, other countries, up to 7 offered and diesels.

truth is it can be 50 reasons to stall,
that shop can not fix cars that are not broken, !! unless SUPER LUCKY.
they scan it and see nada. because its long gone the cause.

it's called a stall.
and stalls are simple in physics, or in theory but have 50 causes, in parts causes, a and about 1 to 10 tests to find.
there is the truth for yah.
cause 1 is not it, lost 12vdc to EFI system.
cause 2, can you save the stall with fast right foot.?

you waited 5 minute to try again, why?
most do it in 1second to avoid getting rear ended.... wow.
that was brave.
if it starts right back up. it can be vast numbers of things.
physics,
1: bad engine, (say a valve stuck open and stalled)
2: bad spark, say not getting a tuneup it 17 years. wow....
3: bad fueling, say bad gas or leaking injectors or dead.
now the mid size list , tests.
say you have tools and can use them,, many guys can.
for sure old guys.. who did for 60 long years.

tests and inspections etc.:
compression ok, at spec, (a tool)
spark plugs new if gas engine.
no engine stated but bad cops. J20 or H engines have them.
or bad boots on said cops none last 17 years, NONE.
bad filters, air and fuel
bad fuel, old fuel or water contaminated. might be gone now....
injector tests, pressure, and leakdown tests, and injector balance testing.


Or just want a guess.
sure
never tuned up ever
never once did the 60,000 mile repeating service points.
at the least.
.or EGR stuck open and stalled and will repeat.

the key factor was, preventing the stall with a fast right foot
you didnt so we can never know whats cause.
this adds air, doing that, and if it recovers easy.
it is a good clue.
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