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I have a 1997 eclipse gst that is the one with turbo. after it warms up it smokes and it seems to be getting worse. also the boost gauge hardly ever goes aboven 3/4 of the way
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your best bet is taking the details of the car like vin/chassis number to your nearest dealer, most codes like key, ignition, radio code, etc are stored in their system databases.
How's the anti-freeze doing? Usually when you see white smoke coming out the tailpipe it's because you are getting anti-freeze in the exhaust somehow. Try to sniff it a little does smell like anti-freeze, or oil? I don't know why the oil pressure would be low unless you are getting anti-freeze in the oil. Does the oil look milky, knda like chocolate milk? The low oil pressure could also be a faulty gauge, you may want to have a mechanic put a mechanical gauge on the car for test purposes.
If your planing on swaping the 2.0 non-turbo(420a) to the 2.0 turbo(4g63t) your problem will be that the motor and transmission are on opposite side of one another. My GST has the trans on the passenger side and the motor on the driver. The 420a is just the opposite. If your serious about it you should get the motor rebuilt with higher performance crank, pistons, rods, exc. And they make turbo kits for the 420a. But you'll need better fuel delivery and some mild tuning.
you have a boostleak, i build gsx's my roommate owns 4g63 power, give me your email er cell and i will send you a boost leak detector you hook up to the turbo inlet and shoot pressurized air into it and if you have a boostleak it will leak out of the engine somewhere that is your leak you replace the seal or hose and blauw the car is fixed, hook me up with blue feedback since im going this far out of my way. the reason you cant get past 2500rpm is because unmeetered air is being let in post maf sensor and the ecu is trying to richen up the engine which is causing the black smoke and probably a strong smell of fuel. my current dsm is the 9th one ive owned =) they break alot lol easy fix though.
It's going to be hard to pinpoint that - with age and time, the wastegate and related parts can start to wear out, so that may need to be repositioned to keep the proper boost level. I know your car comes with a boost gauge, but do you have an aftermarket one? They're much better - the OEM boost gauge is not accurate enough to do much other than tell you whether you're in boost or vacuum. With an aftermarket gauge, you'll know what pressure you're actually making. With that, you can tweak the nut so that the wastegate opens at the proper point. Or you could get an electronic boost controller (used GReddy PRofec II units are available on eBay for less than $150) and really give yourself accurate boost control.
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