The plastic cover over the numbers on my in dash clock

If they have become "clouded", you don't usually have to re move them, there are buffer kits which will clean them up quite nicely, just keep the buffing wheel off the paint job.

Yes, it works perfectly. It has a new model number because the old model is known to fail. Keep the plastic cover from your old clock to cover the little white plastic part on the clock.

If there has been any form of dash cleaner used or preservative used (armoral etc) other than that recommended you have a break down in the plastic material used in the dash. Take the car to an upholsterer /restorer for an opinion but I think the answer will be to have the dash restored

Get a hold of a Chiltons/Haynes repair manual for your car. It'll get step-by-step with diagrams on how to remove this part of your dash. As to accessibility of this particular part, I really have limited advise other than salvage yards or Volvo Corp. You can always check with JC Whitney and similar auto parts vendors.

There are (4) small surface mount resistor on the circuit board attached to the instrument cluster. Very easy to get to. once you remove the dash covering which spans the entire lenght of the front dash. It's that strip just above the glove box door. The strip is held in place by plastic projections. Starting at either side slow wedge a flat blade screw driver or small putty knife in the seam and apply pressure piece will start to separate. Note: Steering wheel most be in the furthest down position so that the dash clears when removing. Once you get the cover completely off, there are (4) screws that hold the instrument cluster in place. Remove them and slowly pull the cluster towards you. There is an electrical cable plugged into the back of the cluster, disconnect it and the cluster is free. On the back of the cluster in a snap in place plastic cover. Remove it by releasing the small plastic snaps, a small flat blade screw drive will do the trick. remove the circuit board. On the component side upper right hand corner you'll see what appears to be four tiny black surface mount resistors If they are all still attached, one or more may be missing. Note: what happens is that due to heat they become loose or completely de-soldered. Go to radio shack or any electronics store and pick up (4) 150 Ohm, 1/4Watt, 5% tolerance resistors. Remove any remaining surface mounts sta\ill attached and solder the new resistor in their place. you're done just reverse the procedure to put back together and you're done. Total time to repair about 45 minutes. there is a YouTube video that takes you through the procedure step by step. Go there and type in 1999 buick century odometer light repair.

radio and clock dnt work on aveo fuses are gud keeps reseting clock radio is dead

Did you already take a look by the plastic in front of the meters if there is or are screws? There should be some way to take that part of the dash of. then with some tweezers, after removing the plastic, you can carefully turn the dials. to your desired number.btw, turn them with the clock, not against the clock.
hope you'll find the screws and get it open.
greetings........Gilbert.

If you are talking of the rubber timing belt setting then rotate the cam gear till the timing mark (small hole) on the camshaft gear aligns with the mark on the plastic cover behind it. Mark is on top of plastic cover (12 'o' clock).
Rotate the crank till the timing mark (groove, not the one for the crankshaft woodruff key) on crankshaft gear is aligned with the mark on the bottom of the plastic cover behind it. (6 'o' clock).
Tighten tensioner against timing belt rotate engine a few times make sure alignment of timing marks remain.

I'm unsure if it holds true for your car, but on most cars that I've seen, the speedometer cluster is sealed shut to prevent tampering.