Wiring for feul pump ,have power at pump ,relay checks good , fuel pump does not come on with key only works if i run a hot from battery

It sounds like you have done some troubleshooting on your own and have determined that there is a problem with the power wire to the fuel pump. Running a new wire from the fuel pump power wire to the relay is a good solution if the original wire is damaged or burnt out.
Before connecting the new wire to the relay, it is a good idea to test the fuel pump by running a wire from the battery positive terminal to the fuel pump power wire. This will ensure that the fuel pump is working properly.
Once you have confirmed that the fuel pump is working, you can connect the new wire to the relay. It is important to connect the wire to the correct pin on the relay. In this case, you should connect it to pin 87, which is the power output pin.
It is also important to ensure that the wire is properly insulated and secured to prevent any electrical shorts or damage. Once the wire is connected, you can test the fuel pump by turning the key to the "on" position and listening for the fuel pump to engage.
If everything is working properly, the fuel pump should only receive power when the key is turned on, and the new wire to the relay will provide a reliable power source for the fuel pump.

One of them the PCM - engine computer gives power too- first when key turned on , two second prim ,then when engine is cranking , PCM has to see a signal from the crank sensor . Applying power where it shouldn't be can fry the PCM .
GM Fuel Pump Relay Testing

I just looked at a wiring diagram of the fuel controls for this model: there is no fuel shut-off switch in the wiring. It's pretty straight forward, typical fuel pump controls: the fuel pump relay is in the under-hood power distribution center. When this relay is turned on, power is sent to the fuel pump, nothing else is in the path of the hot wire to the pump module so it (the pump) should be working.

So if pump is not on, you can diagnose the wiring right here at the fuel pump relay. First you verify the power feed for the pump is available at the relay. (One terminal at the relay will have battery voltage with key off. If you pull the relay out and use a test light, one terminal position will be hot.) Next you verify the relay is working, sending power to the fuel pump in the gas tank. You do this by having someone cycle the key to on, while you hold a finger on the relay (it's back in place) to feel it click on. You should feel it, maybe even hear it, the relay will energize every time the key is turned to on, and this is what sends power to the fuel pump.` If it all works, and the pump is not on, the pump probably needs replacing. If the pump relay is not clicking on, that's a wiring hassle, including the wire to the engine computer. The pcm is what controls the relay turning on.
Do you know if the fuel pump has ever been replaced in the car? If it is original, it has been a good long run.

Security light on? Turn the key on for ten minutes, off for thirty seconds. then try to start

The click you hear is probably the fuel pump relay. See if you can locate it by sound. Possibly, the power feed for the pump may not be good at the relay. Pull the relay out and check for a power signal at one of the terminals that the relay plugs into. It should be a hot- at-all-times signal, so the key does not need to be on. The power feed will come from a maxi fuse in the power distribution box, or from a fusible link just off the battery. If the power is good, try another relay. If still no pump, check the wire from the relay to the pump for a short-a broken line. If wire is good, check the ground for the fuel pump.
Go back to your checking for power at the pump: just possibly, you missed the signal with the key on, because with key on the pump is only supposed to turn on for about 2 seconds (to pressurize the lines) and then shut off until the engine is cranked or running. Try testing for power again at the tank with the key held in start-should be a steady signal then, as long as the engine is cranking over. If still nothing, back to the relay. If you now have a signal for the pump when cranking engine, it must be the fuel pump ground.

Apparently the relay is not being turned on. I believe that signal would come from the engine computer. Does your check engine light come on when you turn the key to on? If it does, the computer is powered up-if no check engine light, either the bulb has burnt out or the computer has no power-check for a bad fuse.
Put your finger on the fuel pump relay and have someone turn the key to on. Do you feel the relay tick? If you do, check if the relay has one hot wire with key off-use a voltmeter or a testlight. If you do have a hot wire at relay., check fuel pump wiring from relay to the pump. Pull off the connector at the pump and replug it back in.
If you can't find a powered wire at the relay with key off, maybe it is only hot when key is on, so turn key on and check relay again for that power wire going to the relay, one wire should have constant power there. If not, there is a wiring problem between the battery and the relay. If the relay has power to it, but you felt no pulse when turning the key to on, likely the relay is not getting a signal to turn on. A shop would need to investigate that.
Well, good luck, hope you find the problem.

Hot wire it! Set a battery by rear of car and run jumper wires to the fuel pump connector.. Instant gratification !
You could almost do the same thing at the fuel pump relay with one short jumper wire: pull the relay out and jump the battery power feed there across to the fuel pump wire. Turn key on and pump should run. Be careful, make sure you do have a single hot line at the relay with key on, and don't put the jumper wire in the wrong slot, or there won't be anything left to play with. You'd have to know which terminal was the fuel pump wire leaving there and going to the pump.
Well, there are a couple of shadetree solutions, worked for me. I assumed from your post that you probably don't have a voltmeter, which if true, is only bad if you want to do any work on your truck yourself. 'Cuz taking the tank off is a thankless, dirty job, and a voltmeter could have saved the trouble by testing for power at the fuel pump connector when the engine was being cranked over. If the wire has power, only then would you know the pump has to be taken out. Good luck.

• Code 542 indicates one of the following conditions:

Engine Starts:

· Fuel Pump secondary circuit shorted to power

· Fuel pump relay contacts always closed

· Open in fuel pump monitor (FPM) circuit between ECU and connection to POWER TO PUMP circuit

· Heated Exhaust Gas Oxygen (HEGO) sensor shorted to power

· faulty ECU

Engine Does Not Start:

· Open inertia switch or inertia switch circuit

· Open in or between ECU and fuel pump (This includes open in fuel pump brushes/windings)

· faulty ground connection at fuel pump

The easiest way to check this circuit is to go to the fuel pump relay. If the relay clicks when the key is turned to the "RUN" position, then the inertia switch circuit is ok.

The Pink/Black wire starts from the fuel pump relay and goes two directions. One side goes back to the fuel pump. The other side is the fuel pump monitor circuit and goes to pin #8 at the ECU. This wire should only be hot for a second or two when the ignition is turned to the RUN position.

The fuel pump relay receives power on the Black/yellow wire. It comes from a fusible link at the power distribution center. This wire should be hot at all times.

If all the above is working as designed, them you probably have a bad fuel pump.

Did you verify that the relay terminals have the appropriate signals to them? 

ECM fuse B (20-amp) should provide power at all times to the orange wire of the fuel pump relay. The relay coil receives ground via the black wire, and relay coil gets power from the dark green/white wire. When the relay is closed, you should have battery power on the gray wire. 

The relay trigger wire should have power from the dark green/white wire in terminal 1 of the Vehicle Control Module (VCM) connector for the first couple of seconds after they key is turned to run (to prime the system) and when the truck is running. Checking for all the appropriate signals at the relay is where I would start. That is after I checked for diagnostic codes.

Believe the fuel relay is the middle relay out of the three in the left rear of the glove box. Last thing is to hot wire the fuel pump if you can not get it scanned, see if the pump is bad unless your going to have a shop work on changing the fuel pump.
Good luck and hope this helps. keep me posted.

The engine computer turns on the fuel pump for 3 seconds when you turn the key to "ON".
If the engine does not start, the pump will not run.
When you turn the key to "Start", the fuel pump runs all the time the key is held in start.
When you turn the key on, it actiavtes the power relay, which provides power to the PCM or engine computer.
The PCM then activates the fuel pump relay, sending power to the fuel pump.
You should have one wire with 12V for 3 seconds in "run" position. This comes from the fuel pump relay to the inertia switch in the trunk and then to the fuel pump.
You should have one ground wire. black
One wire going to the fuel guage.
You may have another ground iwre ging to a diode before going to ground.