I have a hyundai enercell solite 12v 68 amp battery is it sealed or can i take the top of to check the water (its flat and it needs a charge)

Most alternators have a 12v feed to them from the ignition this excites the alternator into charging

that happens
what work has been done on the car recently

check battery cable to starter is sound
tight battery terminals
if starter motor clicks ..flat battery

if starter wont turn at all
possible faulty starter
or immobilizer is still activated

You always need to check battery voltage. The voltage should be at 12 volts if you turn the key and the voltage drops past 10v then the battery needs charged or jumped...always check battery cables for corrosion....especially the ground cable... after figuring that those are all good next it is time to diagnose the starter. Check for 12v at starter positive if good move to little start wire and check for 12v key start reference, you will need another person to check that wire for voltage...if good but car is not starting it will be the stater...you can take it off and have it tested for free at autozone to prove your final decision...if the voltage reference was not good you need to check fuses and relays and ignition switch

Hello Hermando, I assume your truck battery is 12 volt. You would want to select 12v 2a for a long slow charge or 12v 6a for a shorter faster charge.

Make model and year, and what have you checked so far ?
Have you had the battery tested ? Alternator working ?

The right hand battery supplies the engine cranking current and so is of a type that has a high cranking performance. This has an effect on the amp/hr performance. The left hand battery is of the deep draw kind able to supply a low current for a long time. Both batteries are only connected to each other and charging when the ignition is on. Manual charging would be one side at a time. If the left has gone flat switch on the ignition for a while before trying to crank. The car works fine with the same batteries in but not Bentley fine.

Hi there,

If the battery looks like it has caps or covers on top (either screw on, or clip on) which can be removed, then:

1) remove all caps
2) check the internal battery acid (fluid) inside is just above the plates (if not, add just enough "pre-boiled" water - which has cooled - in each compartment to cover the plates).
3) get a damp rag and place over the battery openings (to prevent any flammable gases from escaping).
4) start charging battery

DANGER: never touch any acid from the battery

If no caps or covers are present, then it is a sealed unit - charge the battery as normal.

If there is crusty sulphur type powder present on the battery terminals or battery leads, boiling water will safely remove this residue.



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Hi There.
if you can,,, check the fluid level in your battery (if it is not a sealed battery) if the levels are low then you will need to top up with distilled water,, if you are unable to get any distilled water, boil a kettle of water and allow to cool down sightly before you top up. do not allow the water to come to the top of battery, it should just cover the plates inside the battery by 1/4 of an inch......... if you have the problem after this then you may have a dead cell in the battery and will have to replace it............ if it is a sealed battery again you will have to replace it.
Good Luck.

I live in Australia & have a Hyundai Grandeur XG 3LT V6 2002 model (US equivalent is Hyundai XG300).
Fault codes are P1118 (ETS motor fault) & P1178 (ETS motor battery voltage open). An intermittent fault.
The first code denotes general area of the fault & the second code denotes the specific fault.
So the specific fault is that the ETS-PCM computer is not receiving 12V on pin 2 with ignition on.
'Check engine' light remains on & car is in 'limp home mode' with very little power & poor performance.
I had purchased the Hyundai service manual online (ebook about $8) for the US model. Could not find any
manual for the Australian model. On page FLA-52 found the block diagram for the whole ETS system.
I am a retired electrical engineer so now it became easier for me to find the fault.
There are 2 computers behind the center console. PCM & ETS-PCM.
Pin 2 of the ETS-PCM should have 12V present when ignition is on.
In fault mode 12V was not present. This 12V is supplied from ETS 15A fuse (fuse box under dashboard)
via a relay (i will call this relay the ETS relay). The 15A fuse was OK but the 12V was only
intermittently being passed through the relay points. Relay is located near ignition switch on a
sub panel which has about 6 relays on it. ETS relay was at right bottom corner of sub panel.
Yellow wire feeds the 12V (which is always present even with ign. switch off) to the relay points.
White wire is the output wire from the relay points which feeds 12V to pin 2 of the ETS-PCM computer.
Measure if 12V is present at white wire when ign. switch is turned on (no need to start engine)
I only had the 12V present intermittently. So pulled out the ETS relay - tested contacts with
ohmmeter & found to be only making contact intermittently when relay lever depressed
- removed relay case by grinding away one corner of the case - cleaned the relay points with fine sandpaper.
replaced the relay case & taped with black insulating tape to keep out dust. Tested relay with ohmmeter & points
now OK. Fault is now cleared & car is operating normally.
Also had previously purchased on Ebay a Can OBD11 scanner for $15 which read the fault codes OK.
Hope this helps other people with similar problem.

Here are all the possible problems which can turn on your ABS light.

C1101 Battery voltage over volt: 18V or more ○ ○ BR - 69
C1102 Battery voltage low volt: 9.5V or less ○ ○ BR - 69
C1200 FL wheel sensor: open or short to ground ○ ○ BR - 66
C1201 - Range/Performance: speed jump or damaged exciter ○ ○ BR - 67
C1202 - No signal: air-gap error or wrong excite ○ ○ BR - 68
C1203 FR wheel sensor: open or short to ground ○ ○ BR - 66
C1204 - Range/Performance: speed jump or damaged exciter ○ ○ BR - 67
C1205 - No signal excite: air-gap error or wrong excite ○ ○ BR - 68
C1206 RL wheel sensor: open or short to ground ○ ○ BR - 66
C1207 - Range/Performance: speed jump or damaged exciter ○ ○ BR - 67
C1208 - No signal excite: air-gap error or wrong excite ○ ○ BR - 68
C1209 RR wheel sensor: open or short to ground ○ ○ BR - 66
C1210 - Range/Performance: speed jump or damaged exciter ○ ○ BR - 67
C1211 No signal: air-gap error or wrong excite ○ ○ BR - 68
C1604 ECU hardware: ECU internal or valve failure ○ ○ BR - 70
C2112 Valve relay: valve relay or fuse failure ○ ○ BR - 70
C2402 Motor-Electrical: open or short to battery, motor relay, fuse or motor lock fail ○ ○ BR - 71
C1503 TCS switch failure δ ○
C1605 CAN Hardware failure δ ○ BR - 71
C1610 CAN Bus off failure δ ○ BR - 71
C1611 EMS Time-out failure δ ○ BR - 71
C1612 TCM Time-out failure δ ○ BR - 71
C1613 TCM Un-matching failure δ ○ BR - 71
C2227 Brake disc overheat δ ○
C1274 G-Sensor signal fail (only 4WD) ○ ○ BR - 72
C1275 G-Sensor open or short to ground (only 4WD) ○ ○ BR - 72
You'll need a scanner which is compatible with Hyundai's ABS system to retrieve any DTC's (Diagnostic Trouble Codes) stored in its computer. Any time the ABS light comes on, there's a DTC stored in its computer - that code will tell you where the problem exists. Then you can go from there.