Rod bearings replacement

OK what about it? <-- is a question. What you put is a comment. I can be more helpful if you Phrase your question as a question. However If you are wondering how to re attach the door handle to the latch rod, you will need to remove the inside door panel with the window up. Pull the plastic covering and look in the door for a clip or a nut that holds the rod in place. Reconnect the rod and replace the retainer, test the repair, replace the plastic liner and the door panel. If that is not the issue, then we have both wasted our time

Once you run the engine out of oil you damage the bearings that the engine needs to turn and operate smoothly, the bearings are called the rod and main bearings of the crankshaft. At this point the damage is done and hence the noise you hear is a result of the damage. The fix of course is to replace the engine or have it removed from the truck and crankshaft machined smooth again and all the bearings replaced, whether you opt to do this rather than just replace the whole engine with a rebuilt one depends on how many miles on the truck and how often the oil have been changed, it should have been changed every 3,000 miles, if you have not maintained the oil changes then it is a waste of money to repair this engine, just have a rebuilt one installed.

if you need bearings, you need a lot more. Yes you could, but its a waste of time, because if the bearings are bad, the crank, rod bearings, oil pump, ect. may also be bad.

There are several reasons why you would hear a loud knock from the engine, and the knock will usually be either in the top end or in the lower or bottom end of the engine.

The first thing that should be done is to drain the engine oil, and then pour the oil filter into a pan where you can see it, and if there is a lot of metal flakes, or a fine cloud of brass floating in the engine oil, you will not want to waste the time or the money trying to repair that engine by dropping the oil pan and replacing the piston rod bearings, it will only be a very temporary patch at best, that is if the patch even lasts for a day.

If you do find metal flakes in the engine oil and oil filter, the piston rod bearings will not be the only bearings in the engine that will need to be replaced, and the crankshaft main bearings can only be replaced by removing the engine and placing it upside-down on a good engine stand. The biggest problem would be that even if you did successfully replace the piston rod and crankshaft main bearings, it would only take one piece of metal flake that was left over in the engine block to find its way to one of your new bearings and then it will take no time at all before that engine will be right back where you started, and that is how important just the cleaning process is in repairing or replacing internal engine components.

If you do not find any metal in the engine oil or oil filter, then you should attempt to find the actual cause of the knock before you decide how to repair the engine, and you will have to remove the engine oil pan to inspect the rod bearings, and if you do remove the engine oil pan make sure that when you inspect the rod bearings that you only do so one at a time because you can not mix up the rod caps, and be very sure that when you remove a rod cap that you do replace it the same way that it came off, and if you turn around the rod cap and install it the wrong way or scratch the crankshaft bearing surface the rod bearing will fail.

If you can hear the knocking louder from under the vehicle then the most likely causes for a lower end engine knock are a damaged piston, worn out piston rod bearings, a broken piston rod, a broken flex-plate, and sometimes loose torque converter to flex-plate bolts, and the only parts that you can really check out without opening up the engine would be a broken flex-plate, or for any loose torque converter to flex-plate bolts.

If you can hear the knocking more from the top of the engine, then the most likely causes for an upper engine knock would be a faulty lifter, or broken rocker arm, or a broken valve spring allowing the valve to contact the piston, and it will require the removal of the valve covers and possibly the intake manifold to inspect for the problem.

If you have any doubts then it would be a good idea to consider a good used engine that you can hear run before you buy it, or a rebuilt engine for that vehicle.

I hope that this information will help you out and save you some time and a lot of money.

It's possible, but if you have bad rod bearings, you probably have to get the crank re-done. In other words, if it's knocking, your problem is bearings and crank, not just bearings.

Yes and no... The most common problem in the bottom end is with cylinder number 1. It gets oil starved. This is in the 3sgte. Not sure what motor you have. You can change the bearing without taking out the engine....But you will have to drop the sub frame and oil pan. Problem is, is that you dont know if the crank needs reground and or resized. Or if the rod is bad and ovaled. The bearings wont fit.... you can replace the bad bearings.YES! But how long will it last since it wasnt done correctly? Best case. If there is no damage to the crank and rod? Sure it can last a long time with the rite size bearings. But chances are the rod is bad, the crank needs reground/ or its bent it will need machined. good luck

There is a Ford "motor repair book" at most auto supply stores (not just a typical repair book).
If you have not done this before, it is somewhat of a challenge.
example: You must measure (to the micromillimeter) how much wear has been done to the piston rod end and the crankshaft so that you know what size (thickness) the replacement bearings should be. You just don't buy any bearings without measuring.

I would like to ask: Why are you doing this? You may not need to do it. Are you trying to stop an oil leak? replace seals?

Hope this helps!

Not neccessarily. Have it diagnosed first. The ticking could be many different things. Bearings are one, lifters another or could be not internal engine, may be external. You also need to find out why its doing what it doing otherwise you will waste money fixing something and end up doing it again..

when you talking about drop #6 cyc, did you mean you had to replace the piston and the rod its self? if you had to replace piston and the rod, what took place that you had to replace them? did you throw a rod or the rod was knocking so you had to replace it. If you replace #6 piston due to a rod knocking or you threw a rod for the second time i wonder if that mechanic inspected the main crankshaft it self. if you threw a rod or it knocking 90% of the time you probably have damaged your crankshaft by scuffing it. scuffing the main crank will not be the same, it can be a hair line scuff, it will take no time before your crackshaft will start wearing out the new rod bearing. scuffing up a crankshaft without having machine shop turn it to smooth out any scuff or damages, it will eat and chew up the new rod bearing like its no tomorrow and your rod will knock again. keep in mind, sometime crankshaft is too damage or scuff to be turn or repair it must be replace. There is no reason if that mechanics done it correctly, you should not have any problems from the same cyclinder; it tells me he did a horrible job although he may got in too deep into the engine and decide to cut cost without fixing it and went ahead and fix it knowingly he should done a proper job. If you have to keep placing the rod and the piston due to the crankshaft wearing out the rod bearing, it tells me you have a bad crankshaft. its not worth replacing and fixing due to the cost factor. you better off to get a used motor from a junk yard for 800-1000 bucks. I hope that help some..

You will have to have the crankshaft machined if the rod bearing is the cause of the noise, so you will have to pull the engine, if u don't do the crank the bearing will fail in a few miles.