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About the 89 F250 the distributer is also new,along with the control module and coil. befor the truck would start and drive fine, after 30-40 minutes it wouls just shut off and would have no or very week spark. 2 hours later come back it would fire right up run 30 min and die -no spark again, this went on for two weeks or so. then one day it died and wouldnt start thats where im at now thanks for your time
How is the condition of the electrical wiring, especially on the drivers side of the engine where the dura spark control unit connectors are? I usually find this big bundle of wires and connectors to be in terrible condition most of the time, with a lot of wires that have missing insulation on them and have exposed wires that are usually touching other exposed wires or to ground. Inspect the wires very well even the ones leading over to the engine, and make certain that they are all in good condition. I can not count how many times that I have had to get out the soldering iron and repair those wires on that type of a ford truck, and in that location.How is the condition of the electrical wiring, especially on the drivers side of the engine where the dura spark control unit connectors are? I usually find this big bundle of wires and connectors to be in terrible condition most of the time, with a lot of wires that have missing insulation on them and have exposed wires that are usually touching other exposed wires or to ground. Inspect the wires very well even the ones leading over to the engine, and make certain that they are all in good condition. I can not count how many times that I have had to get out the soldering iron and repair those wires on that type of a ford truck, and in that location.
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did you check the positive and ground cables??.. ive seen before that if the cables have weak connections the sensors/control modules will not function correctly
if im correct in saying this, i think there is a small cylindrical looking piece with one wire comming out from the front in the distributer under the distributer cap next to the points this is could a condenser you could try changing this for a new one all so check the gape your points make if to small you will get no spark as well if to big
Sounds like ignition control module (small plastic piece in bottom of distributor). When it gets warm it's shorting out. Easy fix, disconnect battery, pull cap & rotor - gin module is 2 screws in bottom of distributor and 4 wires - replace wires in exact order and coat bottom of middle with dielectric grease, replace rotor, cap & connect battery NEGATIVE CABLE LAST!
I recently had about the same problem with my c1500. You have a tach watch tach if needle jumps your problem is electical. Test coil, distributor pick-up coil and ignition control module. This time mine was the pick-up coil which requires distributer removal. Both coils can be tested by an Ohmn meter, the module must be removed and tested by auto parts store. All three can cause this problem. As they get hot they short out when they cool they work fine. If you pull the distributer cap look at the wires for the pick-up coil mine were cracked from age, which caused shorting while driving and then it would die. when cooled it would crank.
There is no test for module in distributor, but they often cause this kind of problem. Also while in there, check the pickup coil wires to make sure they are intact.
Last week my 323 89' Mazda stop working as I was driving it in middle of the street, I pushed to the side. it would not start, the starter sounded ok, but the car just didnt start, I checked the fuses, gas pump, and all seemed to be ok, finally with the help of a friend we found out that the ignition rotor at the distributor wasnt working we then replace it with a new one from autozone , is about 5 dollars, now it works just fine, big problem easy solution.
I have spark coming from the coil to the dist by using a screw driver to ground it to something and got spark and then tried it again and got nothing. I am not sure what the hi tension lead is ( sorry) and were is it located on the coil? if so I did try the spark on the coil.
How is the condition of the electrical wiring, especially on the drivers side of the engine where the dura spark control unit connectors are? I usually find this big bundle of wires and connectors to be in terrible condition most of the time, with a lot of wires that have missing insulation on them and have exposed wires that are usually touching other exposed wires or to ground. Inspect the wires very well even the ones leading over to the engine, and make certain that they are all in good condition. I can not count how many times that I have had to get out the soldering iron and repair those wires on that type of a ford truck, and in that location.
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