My csx fuel injection 1.8 fails to idle when engine is cold.

It likely has EFI (electronic fuel injection) and an idle air control valve that regulate idle speed. They can get gummed and fail to have a fast idle when cold, or get stuck the other way, and have a too fast idle all the or regularly take its time slowing down after you take your foot off the gas. An engine temp sensor can also cause a lingering high idle if it reports the engine as still being cold after warm up.

hot engine ?, cold or both,, EFI runs in 3 modes, cold ,warm and hot.

name it.

which engine option (displacement)??????



there is no idle adjust, that is the PCMs, job 100%, all the time.

Carbs are gone.

here is rule one for all EFI.

idle is the last thing to work correctly.

anything the causes a gross imbalance of engine power to engine load, under idle will cause , idle controls to fail.



low idling causes. (over 50 but, here ar basics)

1: AFR (air fuel mixture too lean) usually surges. (clogged or leaking injectors. or fuel pressure way to high)

2: air leaks, cause racing, so not that. (speed density car ,if is)

3: egr stuck open. low idle and misfire.

4: ISC stuck closed (IAC electric)

5: cam belt slipped, timing retarded, compression at 1/2 spec, and well, valve will bend soon....

6: CEL glowing running? can be in limphome, limp cancels Idle controls (in may cases) RTM read the FSM on DTCs.



if fails hot?, is hot = 180F temp or more? "thermometer time"

if not, the PCM goes , quite nuts.

It is quite common for most cars to have an increased rev range when a engine is started from cold, as the temperature increases the revs will drop down.
Depending on the age of the car has a lot to do with it also, as older cars used an auto choke system until a warmer temperature was attained.
More modern cars don't neccessarily need extreme higher revs, but still operate with a thermostatic controller, that regulates the fuel flow via the fuel injection system.
before you do anything, consider
1/ You have to know also what rev range does the car operate at when its been running for a while, eg when its warm and idling does it rev at 600,800,1000.
2/ Make sure you don't have your air conditioner on when starting, as this increases revs also.
3/ How long is the increased revs lasting.
4/ Is this car a carburated model or fuel injection
5/ have a visual and check that there are no small vacuum pipes that have come off anywhere around the intake area of the motor. (Intake area can be found where you accelorator cable ends up.
6/ failing that when your car goes for its next service, bring this problem to the mechanics attention.
it can be difficult to diagnose problems like these unless your looking at the engine.

I hope this has helped somewhat

kazont69
I hope this

There are several things that few people know about starting cars in cold weather. 1. Check your battery to make sure it is not rusted, leaking, and has a charge 2. Jump start your battery with another car, even if you believe the battery is good, this often times will still start your car. 3. If your engine is cold, and you have an older car, ensure to get your fuel lines to the engine flushed or have fuel injection service performed 4. The engine tends to warp the same way wood does during the extreme cold, do not be afraid to continue trying to warm up the engine by constant cranks with it is cold out. Your not going to hurt the car, the worse that could happen is too much fuel will enter the carborator and cause flooding in the system to occur. Wait 20 minutes if this happens and start to crank again 5. Bad spark plugs are a major reason why many cars take a very long time to start 6. Please have your spark plugs removed and exchanged for new ones. Over time, spark plugs become fowled and prevent the car from starting even thou you hear cranking!!!

Hi

this sounds like an air fault, most likely cause will be the air flow meter or also known as a MAF sensor. you can clean this and often they work again. this is located within the air pipe system, has a plugged wire going into an air pipe.

If you need more details get back to me
Regards
Dan

Carburated vehicles ether have an automatic choke, or the very old ones, a hand choke. Yours has an automatic choke. The starting problem likely is a problem with the choke. The problem is almost certainly not the fuel pump.To set the automatic choke, push the accelerator to the floor, and RELEASE. Then start the engine just like you would a fuel injected vehicle. If this doesn't solve the problem, then the automatic choke needs to be repaired.

starting in no particular order.....air filter blocked,auto choke stuck,thermostat stuck open,tyres under inflated,(5spd gearbox 29.4 mpg...4spd gearbox 32.8mpg,average consumtion,yes, thats right,govt figures)

Fuel injected? My 87 Porsche and 89 Alpha Romeo have Bosch fuel injection system (the best). They both have a cold start injector driven by the onboard computer. Computers hardly ever fail. But the sensor that tells the computer that the engine is cold can fail or the cold start injector can fail or be dirty. Please go to your autoparts store and get a repair manual, best $ 25 you will ever spend. Good Luck!

1-3-4-2 Distributor rotates clockwise.

Also can review this information: Jetta Tech

Good luck, and remember rated this help.

The high idle is caused by the choke and the high idle on the carb. It is working normal and you do won't to warm up this motor before going. When it is warm and you hit the gas it activates the choke pull off to bring the idle to normal. Your mechanic is used to fuel injection that will control the fuel/air mix according to temp. I still let my injected cars warm up so the oil can thin a little. If you jump on the highway with cold thick oil it can all wind up in the to of the motor.