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well does it hold pressure, no leaks. no pan full of water (engine pan) 1:bad cap rad. 2: bad thermostat or installed backwards 3: under filled. system. (air pockets not burped out) 4 : using only water, no AF50% only 5: bad pump belt slip to same. 6: rad,core tubes, clogged, use IR thermal gun to find super super easy. ask. 7: end RAD FAN overheated its dead or too slow.
Could be that the heater core is clogged... for the car to operate at optimal temperature (not to cold, not too hot) all cooking system had to be working properly, I had a '97 camaro, it had 2 previous owners and I had heater core issues and also the hose that goes to the expansion tank was clogged, causing the water to build enough pressure to escape trough radiator cap... anyways they're two totally different cars but seems to me you need a cooling system flush.
They sell a kit which includes a T fitting that goes in the hose flowing towards the heating core, and allows you to connect a garden hose to push water through the system with radiator cap off so all can circulate and clean up. Being careful (water pressure in houses is more than the system is designed to withstand, for instance a radiator cap can be 15 - 20 psi, depending on area, some homes have above 40 psi) is a great diy little project. Alternatively you can pay a mechanic shop to do it. After a flush, drain the radiator from bottom plug and refill with coolant always. Don't run your system with water and don't drive an overheating car, it will blow a gasket and that's when you kiss your car goodbye, repair is not only expensive but blown gasket might leave sequels on engine.
there are up to 25+ symptoms of engine overheat. flushing only works on toilets. My guess, is it's leaking coolant somewhere. There should be no pressure next morning.
Cold water does not build pressure. but if the vacuum breaker in the cap fails this can cause vacuum pressure, that sounds like air pressure. but is not. Reverse Does engine run ok. have full power, no pinging no water leaks. if it leaks say where exactly. locations matter, 1: steam blasting in to side, expansion tank running? 2: steam from tail pipe end.?
same on all water cooled engine,s this. the top fail is bad thermostat , they live about 7 years, says the top makers. the next is leaks, then bad RAD CAP, cooling fan dead? and more. running water only not Antifreeze 50%
drain the rad into a pail.
remove the upper rad hose from the thermostat housing.
remove the thermostat housing
remove the gasket/seal (from housing or engine)
remove thermostat
install ne stat & gasket/seal
reinstall housing and hose.
close off rad bottom valve
refill rad with new coolant (with cap off run engine until warm
top up fluid to neck) replace cap.
dispose of old fluid at environmental recycle center
could be waterpump?
i was going to say rad fan,but if so heater would be hot.
lack of coolant will make heater core to blow cold,if engine heats up with full coolant,usually means poor or no circulation.
water pump?
run engine with full coolant,at operating temp.with rad cap off and look in rad cap hole and see if there is movement of water inside rad.
[rad fan will not come on if water is not circulating through rad water pump?]
You probably never cleaned the cooling system out.
If you have not get it done by pros.
It seems something is blocking the flow. If the water pump went bad you will know. Rarely ever heard a impeller breaks off like you think. The bearings and the seal break first.
Check and see also if the heater valve is working.
As for the over heating even new thermostats fail. Reverse flush is needed or the procan measure the pressure in the radiator cooling system and edetermine if there is a engine pressure problem. Tools and experience is the key in the game of diagnosis.
with a 1993 you do not want to run it with out the thermostat it will damage the engine but you might want to try getting a low temp thermostat from advance auto parts and try that
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