I have a 2000 civic that drove through deep water and turned the check engine light to flashing on and then off, engine started hesitating then regaining power and then hesitating again ( check engine light came on flashing when car began hesitating and went off when it regained power). Drove about 3 miles until able to get off the freeway and at the second stop with a small incline the car didn't have enough power to make it all the way to the top of the hill. The car stalled and when I put it in first gear it didn't have enough power to go forward but rolled backward and then stalled again. Able to start it and put it into 1st gear but stalls when I let out the clutch. Had it towed home. I know that the check engine light was probably triggered by the amount of water I hit but because it didn't completely stall out I figured the distributor cap got wet or maybe water got into something else but is it normal for the clutch to act like it's going out and have no power? Does this sound like maybe parts need to be dried, along with replacing a few plugs and some fluids or does it sound like a major engine failure - transmission/clutch going out problem?
Thank you, I towed it to a local mechanic this morning and he dried the distributor cap, exhaust manifold, any lines with water in it and it seemed to drive fine so I went to work. Driving the 15 miles there was fine but on the way back the car started doing the same things. It starts off fine, i'm assuming it is when it's cold but when it starts to warm up there's a metallic rattle and sputtering sound when accelerating in 1st gear shifting into 2nd gear and it bogs for a bit until shifting into 3rd gear. Got halfway home and check engine light started flashing on and off again and losing engine power. Pulled over and parked the car for a couple of hours and got 2/3 of the way back home and had to pull over again. Left it parked again and am going back in an hour to see if I can band- aid it home. Noticed the last attempt that any acceleration made the shuttering worse and had to drive it in 2nd gear for the most part. The clutch was just replaced 6 months ago- so go figure.
What ever the case, the whole engine component is functioning so badly that it literally is not drivable. I've had car problems in the past that made driving difficult or more so just a pain in the ass repair but i've never had a whole freaking engine just die.Thank you, I towed it to a local mechanic this morning and he dried the distributor cap, exhaust manifold, any lines with water in it and it seemed to drive fine so I went to work. Driving the 15 miles there was fine but on the way back the car started doing the same things. It starts off fine, i'm assuming it is when it's cold but when it starts to warm up there's a metallic rattle and sputtering sound when accelerating in 1st gear shifting into 2nd gear and it bogs for a bit until shifting into 3rd gear. Got halfway home and check engine light started flashing on and off again and losing engine power. Pulled over and parked the car for a couple of hours and got 2/3 of the way back home and had to pull over again. Left it parked again and am going back in an hour to see if I can band- aid it home. Noticed the last attempt that any acceleration made the shuttering worse and had to drive it in 2nd gear for the most part. The clutch was just replaced 6 months ago- so go figure.
What ever the case, the whole engine component is functioning so badly that it literally is not drivable. I've had car problems in the past that made driving difficult or more so just a pain in the ass repair but i've never had a whole freaking engine just die.
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flashing CEL means too rich fuel and danger of CAT melting.!
the owners manual covers that, fact.
slow down for deep water, if engine sucks in water the engine will seize and and be total loss. bend rods , bent crank.
my guess is O2 sensors soaked, so let them dry off.
if water hit spark plugs higher, those now are wet and water conducts HV voltage spark well and shorts out the spark plugs, so get those dry.
learn to slow to A crawl if water goes deeper than 1 inch.
or buy a tall 4wD jeep. like my Wrangler. I can do 20" of water slow.
I have even forded streams.
worst case is engine wrecked, best case dry it out, or wait 24hours before posting here.
If the water was deep enough you could have sucked some into the engine causing it to make knocking or pinging or electrical got wet causing engine detonination. More info would help.
No, you may have got the ignition system wet. The flashing check engine light indicates an ignition misfire. You probably need a tune up including some spark plug cables. It may run better when it dries out, but it will come back again when it get's wet.
This is likely a problem with the passlock 2 system created by gm which has had many complaints but never has been recalled. Place key in ignition, turn to ON Position. (do not start). Leave in ON position for Exactly 10 minutes. The light will shut off, Immediately start the vehicle once the light is off.
sounds like it could have ignition module failing,also possibly coil starting to go.I seen same problem on 92 hatchback,put module and coil on and runs fine.goodluck...
Does the engine turn fully or not? If not the connecting rods are more than likely twisted to your pistons if he hit the deep puddle at a fast rate of speed. The pressure of the water would of passed through the engine's crack seal producing deadly effects to the engine
under the intake manifold at the rear of the engine there is a pack of wires. This pack rubs on the bottom of the intake and creates a short circuit which screws up the !!speedo!!, sets off the check engine light and gives a trouble code (if you know how to read the check engine flashes) that there is a problem with the O2 sensor, and sometimes the headlights would surge.
Just crawl under the car when it is up on stands and gently turn over the pack of wires under the intake to expose the bare wire or wires. Tape them up and away you go.
have you check the ground wire from your negative wire to battery post? check to see the battery is strong. if it doesn't turn over the engine or crank the engine mean no good ground to the cables. if the car ran fine I dont understand why the car wont crank or turn the motor over it just quit. if the battery check out strong 12 V, starter serenoid may be faulty on your starter or it may be hot and will not turn starter over.
Thank you, I towed it to a local mechanic this morning and he dried the distributor cap, exhaust manifold, any lines with water in it and it seemed to drive fine so I went to work. Driving the 15 miles there was fine but on the way back the car started doing the same things. It starts off fine, i'm assuming it is when it's cold but when it starts to warm up there's a metallic rattle and sputtering sound when accelerating in 1st gear shifting into 2nd gear and it bogs for a bit until shifting into 3rd gear. Got halfway home and check engine light started flashing on and off again and losing engine power. Pulled over and parked the car for a couple of hours and got 2/3 of the way back home and had to pull over again. Left it parked again and am going back in an hour to see if I can band- aid it home. Noticed the last attempt that any acceleration made the shuttering worse and had to drive it in 2nd gear for the most part. The clutch was just replaced 6 months ago- so go figure.
What ever the case, the whole engine component is functioning so badly that it literally is not drivable. I've had car problems in the past that made driving difficult or more so just a pain in the ass repair but i've never had a whole freaking engine just die.
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