1986 chevy S10 has no power (12v) at fuse box on the fuse for ac clutch. checked both sides of fuse to ground 00v. ac/heater fuse 12v both sides (fan) works fine

Did you use a 12v test light to check the fuses?Is there power at the A/C fuse in the fuse box?There may be corrosion under/in the fuse box wiring if no voltage is present at the fuse.

Check connectors and wiring, probably vibrations are interrupring some bad connector.

1986 chevy s10 2.5l no gas coming from injector. - S-10 Forum

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Sep 2, 2009 - 24 posts - ‎7 authors I have no gas coming from my injector it a 1986 chevy s10 2.5l I have replaced the fuel pump,oil pressure switch & I checked and oil would ...

My thought would be to check the A/C compressor unit. may be seizing up and putting stress on the belt.

Looks like the low pressure switch gets power from a 10amp ac fuse. Power then goes to the ac relay which is powered on by the ac heat controller on the dash. Power then goes thru the high pressure switch to the compressor. The ac relay is grounded to the body. Do you have power on the lite and dark green wires going into the relay and is it grounded ?

KEY ON, FAN ON HIGH TAP FAN MOTOR NEAR WHERE POWER GOES IN, IF BLOWER RUNS REPLACE BLOWER MOTOR.

First check and confirm the fuses related to heater in your car.Fuse #12 (40A) in the under-hood box powers the blower motor. Fuse #14 (10A) in the under-dash box powers the blower motor relay as well as the A/C compressor clutch relay, A/C condenser fan relay, power mirrors, radiator fan relay, recirc. control motor, and rear defogger relay.If the fuses are blown then replace the fuse and check.But if the problem is still there then Its a heater relay problem,.The blower motor relay is in the under-hood fuse box. It's larger than the rest, on the back side, labeled RY6.Remove the relay. With the ignition off, use a 12V tester to locate the constant-power socket, which powers the motor via the relay. Then with the ignition on, locate the switched-power socket, which powers the relay. Verify that neither of the remaining two sockets is powered, then with the ignition off use a continuity light to determine which is ground. The last socket goes to the motor. (If the continuity tester lights on both, it's probably because the motor has fairly high resistance, and you'll need an ohmmeter to determine which socket is ground and which goes to the motor.)With a fused 12V power source, power the relay's coil contacts and check the other two contacts for continuity. If the relay doesn't work, replace. But if the relay is also checked ok.then in that case the blower motor is faulty causing this problem.Make sure it has power at the connector and that the connector is properly seated. If the power and ground connections are fine, then the motor is bad. ----------- This troubleshooting procedure will help you to confirm the possible problem.Thanks.Helpmech.

When your R-134a runs too low it will NOT engage the compressor. You need to refill your a/c system before the clutch will engage, I also suggest finding the leak.

you have a short somewhere problably bad ground , or interferrance from alternaot overloading the circuit... check all ground securlely...if you cant locate it its not going to be cheap for a mech to locate the issue.. good luc kthough ( also check for loose wire behind the fuse box in car.

Diagram should be on the inside of the fuse box or relay cluster lid/cover. If Test light has 1 wire and a sharp tip? Yes, but only if you push the horn button too ;-)

My guess is that the horn lost its ground, but you can check this with the light. The horn only beeps when both GROUND and Pos 12v are present. The horn button gives the relay 12v to close, and the relay gives the horn 12v to operate. The ground is always connected.

Connect tester clipwire to 12v source (battery, headlight (has to be on) and touch its tip to metal of car. Does it light? Good. the tester is working and the 12v is a good source.

Touch one of the 2 horn connection or wires (poke it thru the plastic - why tip is sharp). Does it light? Touch the other, does it?

If both light, (1 will be brighter) we can assume the horn coil is good and it is getting a good ground and I was wrong (it happens... but not often). The side that is BRIGHTER is the ground wire side.

Now have someone mash the horn button. Do you hear a tiny click? That is the horn relay. If not, look for the horn relay fuse and replace it. If you DID hear the click, the relay coil is good and is trying to switch 12v to drive the horn.

Now is time to locate and replace the horn fuse or the relay may have bad contacts. Look at the other relay part numbers in the cluster and see if there is a match for the horn one. Swap it out and try the horn.

Hope this all helps. To 'test' the horn, touch the dim side again anf listen for a scratching sound. That is the 12v going thru the tiny bulb in the tester (a resistance) and trying to drive the horn.

Good Luck!