Power windows and locks dont work, lights on the dash are dimmed, could it be a blown fuse or ground fault?

Check for blown fuses you have to step on the brake peddle to move the gear shift if the fuse is blown the switch can't activate and let the shifter release I would check all fuses for the shifter and brake pedal and brake lights if they are blown no brake lights the safety features kick in and you can't drive the car and if you gear shift was always loose and wobbly before the window motor replacement it's very possible that the shifter tube in the steering column has broke and it is not closing the switches in the column causing blown fuses so only you know if that shift lever was always tight and ok if it wiggles back and forth and very unstable that's it this should be tight and precise wobbly and wiggly is n/g also are the interior lights working properly and when the doors open the lights come on and go off when closed if not check the wires going to the lock switch and the ground wire for the actual door latch lock that holds the door closed to the body the wires could be on the same circuit also power lick actuators if the plug was left off the circuit is open I hope that you disconnected the battery cables before doing the window motor any jumping off positive to negative will cause blown fuses and check both the passenger compartment fuses and the power distribution box under the hood as well as the accessories relays

Backup Lamp Circuit Description
Battery positive voltage (B+) is supplied at all times to the REVERSE relay coil through the rear fuse block. Battery positive voltage (B+) is supplied at all times from the rear fuse block NSBU Fuse to the REVERSE relay switch. The powertrain control module (PCM) sends a class 2 message to the rear integration module (RIM) indicating that the gear selector lever is in the REVERSE position. The dash integration module (DIM) sends a class 2 message through power moding that the ignition switch is in the ON position. When these conditions occur, the RIM grounds the REVERSE relay coil. The coil is energized, closing the switch contacts. This supplies battery positive voltage (B+) to the backup lamps. The backup lamps are both permanently grounded, so both backup lamps have power and ground, and then light.

Do you know about class 2 serial data communications between control modules ? Do you know there is a fuse box under the rear seat ?

This is information taken from a Buick service repair manual !

Park Lamps
The dash integration module (DIM) supplies battery positive voltage (B+) to the PRK LP relay coil. When the headlamps or park lamps need to be on or when the ignition switch is in the ON position. Battery positive voltage (B+) is supplied at all times to the PRK LP relay switch. When the park lamps are to be active, the DIM grounds the PRK LP relay coil. The coil is energized, closing the switch contacts. Battery positive voltage (B+) is supplied to the rear fuse block RH PARK LP Fuse, LH PARK LP Fuse, and DIMR Fuse. The LH PARK LP Fuse supplies battery positive voltage (B+) to the LH park lamps. The LH PARK LP Fuse supplies battery positive voltage (B+) to the LH park lamps. The LH and RH park lamps are permanently grounded, so all park lamps have power and ground, and then light. The DIMR Fuse supplies battery positive voltage (B+) to the DIM park lamp input for interior lamps dimming, the license lamps, the underhood lamp, and the cornering lamps. The license lamps are permanently grounded, so both license lamps have power and ground, and then light.

The body control system consists of 3 modules:
• The dash integration module (DIM)
• The instrument panel module (IPM)
• The rear integration module (RIM)
Dash Integration Module (DIM)
Battery voltage is provided from the rear fuse block to the DIM. The module ground is wired to ground. Battery positive sense voltage is provided from the rear fuse block to the DIM. This battery input is referenced to the ground sense input at DIM which is wired to the battery negative terminal and to ground. These sense inputs are physically connected to the battery positive and negative terminals for accurate battery voltage readings. The DIM is wired to the class 2 serial data line. The various DIM input and output circuits are described in the corresponding functional areas as indicated on the DIM electrical schematics.
Instrument Panel Module (IPM)
Battery voltage is provided from the underhood fuse block to the IPM. Ignition voltage is provided from the rear fuse block to the IPM. The voltage inputs are referenced to the module ground. The IPM is wired to the class 2 serial data line. The various IPM input and output circuits are described in the corresponding functional areas as indicated on the IPM electrical schematics.
Rear Integration Module (RIM)
Battery voltage is provided from the rear fuse block to the RIM. Ignition voltage is provided from the rear fuse block to the RIM. These voltage inputs are referenced to module ground. The RIM is wired to the class 2 serial data line. The various RIM input and output circuits are described in the corresponding functional areas as indicated on the RIM electrical schematics.
Rear Integration Module (RIM)
The RIM functions include the following functions:
• Heated seat controls
• Rear defogger control
• Park relay controls
• Various controls for the interior lamps
• Reverse control for the backup lamps
• Rear compartment lid release controls
• Retained Accessory Power (RAP) control
• Ajar switch and tamper switch inputs from the rear compartment lid
• Vehicle leveling
Your best bet would be to take your vehicle to a qualified repair shop ! No offence but this is complex an a factory or professional grade scan tool is needed , could have DTC'S - diagnostic trouble codes stored .
Body Control System Description
The body control system consists of the following 3 modules:
• The dash integration module (DIM), located behind the instrument panel, under the right dash sound insulator.
• The instrument panel module (IPM), located behind the instrument panel, under the left dash sound insulator.
• The rear integration module (RIM), located behind the rear seat back cushion (upper, left).

Check owners manual for your fuse box location. Remove and replace blown fuse. Normally located under driver side dash, passanger side dash or under your hood

engine runs perfect?
head lights full power bright>? 2 questions, and shows battery is at 12.6vdc rested and 13.3 to 15vdc running, (is it>?_)
ill pretend yes......
blown fuse. what else could cause so many things, to lose DC power.
>?
a fuse can be good, bad or intermittent , even corroded,
a tech would scratch head and pick the easiest fault to fix.
my guess, is
dashboard doesnt work means the guages , and idiot lamps are dead but the park lamps there (dimmable) do work.
so what fuse is that.? i say to self.....
I open the FSM. and look at the power cluster feed.
what do i see.?
posted over 100 times here.
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service

i look in instruments page. (aka. cluster)
tells you how it works
then i jump wiring page 8w-40-2
i see what, Fuse 10. is it good? and fuse 17.
fuse 10 is key on,, and fuse 17, is hot full time.

thats it, if the cluster is dead, only fuses can kill it 100% dead
or it losts its main ground, which is unlikely but voltmeter proves
in 1min flat. (G201)


i picked right, the cluster dead, is the most simple
if Headlights are dead, its most simple (not in Canada with DRL)

bingo?

between the main power board under the bonnet and the fuse box inside the car is a problem what? i have no idea but check for power to the fuses inside the car then if no power theri you have a main fuse blown under the bonnet in the power distribution box and work backwards using logic to find the fault

Check a couple things:

1. Verify that the dimmer switch for the dash lights isn't in the full dim position (it turns off the dash lights).

2. Check your fuse panel (in the engine compartment) for a blown fuse.

the one that is blown take a test light ground the gator clip with a good ground and probe each fuse with key on and there will be power on each end of the fuse the one that dont light up replace it

Fuse blown , poor ground, or power wire to dash module disconnected--Solution 1/check &/or replace fuse 2/ check ground wire to module 3/ Check to see if wire disconnected--very hard to work under a dash board. may have to get technician.

If the power window itself still work fine, and the illumination on the driver's side door lock still work, then the LEDs behind the switch are the issue ( usually bad solder joints ).
If you are talking about all doors other than the driver's side, do you have the window lock on ? The lights on the switch turn off when the driver's side window lock is enabled.

Check for fuses and fusible links that may be tripped or blown.

Next, check for grounding issues someplace easy to reach like the heated seat connectors.

Most dummy lights work by choosing the warning light path over the circuit path when the circuit path is higher resistance. Which may explain your dash warning lights.

So, what I am trying to say is...you are looking for a open ground in a big big place....like under the hood at one of the major fuse/relay/fusible link points.

Check it out. Good luck and be careful.