My check engine light came on and the car started stalling. I checked the oil, and there was absolutely none. I put a container and a half; drove around for 10 minutes. The noises and stalling stopped, but the check engine light is still on. Does this mean that I destroyed my engine

check charging system first . then check fuel pressure

Check oil level. If empty, your clicking maybe a bad engine bearing. It pays to get consistent, timely factory recommended service.

Timing, Vacuum leak. The MAF may need to be cleaned. There are specialty spray cans for this.

Check crankshaft sensor.

Check the oil level and check it for water. Remove the oil filler cap to see if it has some brown gunk that looks like melted milkshake. Are you sure it has fuel in it? Do you have the ability to perform a spark test? Will the engine turn over or does it just click and not even try to turn? If it turns over, get some starter fluid and spray it in the intake. If it starts or tires to start on this, then you are looking at a fuel issue.

is the CEL check engine light out running? (it comes on stalled, and is normal that)
stalled. engine stall. no year, now that makes this 10x impossible
and even more impossible no engine stated, (displacement or VIN)
F22? 2.3. 2.7? 3.0L?
if in usa, (no loctation stated ) open hood, look up, see tag?
see vacuum EPA map, see engine type? bingo.

so I wall answer in the generic, (ALL CARS gasoline)
fails hot or cold engine, does hot engine reach 180F and hold?
wow, how low was the oil, off end of stick, none?
stalling is caused by over 50+ things. (we do tests to find it fast )
we use tools, do you have tools, or can buy them, or do you just want
endless guessing. here is the path.
#1 stall maker is a stuck open EGR main valve, ignored during the turn up, clean it. make sure it close
in the macro,
1: bad engine, the hot engine can lose compression and stall.
tool1 the $20buck compression guage.
2: bad spark, or timed wrong. gapped plugs wrong, wrong plugs used. bad wires sets, (old dizzy engines) bad COPS newer cars.
check for hot spark at all spark plugs, skip none.
3: bad fueling (too much or not enough
if engine runs perfect and only idle is too low 800 hot is normal
no DTC 300s misfires, then maybe the ISC is just dirty.
we clean the EGR and ISC every time.
if the EGR leaks, the fast right foot can save a stall but is hard.
if the ISC sticks closed, saving the stall is piece of cake, super easy
after all , you are adding the missing air.

does that help,. no, then take it top the man, the ASE man.
The Mechanic.with the ASE patch on his /her sleeve.
no year, ouch.

Hello,
Absolutely, a dirty fuel filter could cause that. You may also check your air filter, a dirty air filter can cause a bad fuel/air mix ratio, which can have similar results to a dirty fuel filter.

I hope this helps you.

It's not suprising that the engine stalled after getting hot considering you had run the engine out of oil as indicated by oil pressure light coming on and needing two quarts to refill it. Now that the oil is replaced, you could keep driving, but it would be wise to investigate why it had got so low on oil in the first place. Refer explanation below. You should check the oil level weekly to ensure it is at the correct level and top up if necessary. For that year vehicle, oil and filter changes should be around the 3,000 mile / 5,000 Km mark.
It sounds like the engine could be using excessive oil by either leaking out or being burnt in the cylinders.. If there is a major leak then there will be oil puddles under the engine after sitting for a while. Excessive oil burning in the cylinders is indicated by grey oil smoke from the exhaust when driving. If engine has oil and grime all over the best way to find the leaks is to get the engine pressure cleaned and then observe where the oil leaks are. The most usual places for older vehicles are the sump and valve cover gaskets followed by crankshaft seals. Oil leaks can also come from a loose oil filter or a faulty warning light pressure switch. If exhaust smoke is excessive then it would indicate worn piston rings and / or valve guides and seals.

take your distribuitor cap off and dry the inside out

I don't want to be a prophet of doom but it sounds like the timing belt jumped a tooth. If it did the noise you heard would have been the valve touching the piston. If it went another tooth the engine will not start. You need to check the timing, correct it and try and start it. If it either locks up or won't start you probably have a bent valve.