Today I tried again to jump start the truck with no luck. I replaced the ignition switch and starter. Again I had the same results. Today I noticed that when the key was turned to the on position I had power inside the truck and the check engine, battery lights were on. When the key was rolled over to start the truck the lights went out and a single click noise came from the starter. Upon releasing the key sometimes there was still power and sometimes not. I then tried to jump the solenoid with a screwdriver across the 2 posts. I got a spark and again the starter clicked once and then I had no power. I also noticed that when rolling the key to start the truck, #1 and #2 relays also made a single click noise. I then replaced both and again had the same results trying to start the truck.
Year : 1995 Make : Ford Model: F250 Engine: 7.5, 460 I drove the truck to the store and went shopping for about 15 min. Came outside and the truck would not start, acted like the battery was dead. I tried to jump start and that didnt work. Messed around with it for about an hour and then went home. Went back to the parking lot this morning and began working on it. It was running fine before I turned it off and went into the store. replaced the starter, tightened up the battery cables, replaced ignition switch ( box under the dash by the colum) and also replaced 2 relays that are located outside of the fusebox under the hood. tried to jump start again with no luck.
Im gonna go through the battery cables again this morning and also I am going to check the motor to make 100% sure its a electric problem. Going to manualy rotate the motor.Im gonna go through the battery cables again this morning and also I am going to check the motor to make 100% sure its a electric problem. Going to manualy rotate the motor.
Was able to get the truck running and home, I took a wire and connected it to the pos battery terminal and touched the wire to the small post on the starter. The truck fired right up. Got it home and replaced the small red wire running from the starter to the solinoid. Now its back to where is was before, not starting or turning over the starter. I did notice a black box located under the dash inside. Its making a rapid clicking noise like its a anti theft system. there is alot of wires going to the box including a wire that plugs into it like a anntenia. Could the anti theft system be causing it not to start? Any advice would be greatly helpfulWas able to get the truck running and home, I took a wire and connected it to the pos battery terminal and touched the wire to the small post on the starter. The truck fired right up. Got it home and replaced the small red wire running from the starter to the solinoid. Now its back to where is was before, not starting or turning over the starter. I did notice a black box located under the dash inside. Its making a rapid clicking noise like its a anti theft system. there is alot of wires going to the box including a wire that plugs into it like a anntenia. Could the anti theft system be causing it not to start? Any advice would be greatly helpful
After replacing everything and it still now working right I went back to the basics and through using trial and error with a piece of jumper wire I finally realized the problem was the pos battery cable and the jumper off the pos to the starter switch. I changed out the pos cable and build a new jumper to the starter switch and then it started right up. Well at least I know that I am not going to have to replace the starter, relays, pos cable or ignition switch anytime soon. Thanks for everybody helping meAfter replacing everything and it still now working right I went back to the basics and through using trial and error with a piece of jumper wire I finally realized the problem was the pos battery cable and the jumper off the pos to the starter switch. I changed out the pos cable and build a new jumper to the starter switch and then it started right up.
Well at least I know that I am not going to have to replace the starter, relays, pos cable or ignition switch anytime soon.
Thanks for everybody helping me
Oh, wanted to add that I am also rebuilding a old vw bug, got her running pretty good but any advice on those cars would also be greatly helpful. Next project is a rat rod that is going to be made out of a 34 ford coup. Any info for that project would be great, also looking for parts for a rat rod projectOh, wanted to add that I am also rebuilding a old vw bug, got her running pretty good but any advice on those cars would also be greatly helpful. Next project is a rat rod that is going to be made out of a 34 ford coup. Any info for that project would be great, also looking for parts for a rat rod project
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You said you tightened the battery cables, did you check the other end of the negative where it bolts to the engine. When you tightened the cables you also used a battery brush and cleaned the posts and ends?
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note the diagram for starter relay, the relay has two sides, the switch side, left side in diagram. The control side, right side in diagram. If you used jumper on the switch side and it cranked, but, w/o the jumper, it wouldn't, check the control side of relay for voltage and ground. You can see 15 amp fuse, goes hot with key in the crank position. Also note the transmission range sensor. The bottom black wire on control side is chassis ground. By using jumper on switch side of relay, it bypasses the control side. good luck
If it starts when you jump the ignition switch without a problem then it's the wiring from the key ignition to the starter switch. Check the connections to the switch and then follow those wires back as far as possible, opening wire wraps carefully so you can put them back on. Look for burnt pulled or worn wires. If it cannot be found you can get a tracer tool fro wires from Auto-Zones " Tool loan program" you pay for the tool but if brought back in good condition you get all your money back. I will tell you if the signal is making it to the switch. By the way you can only jump the switch so many times before you arch it too many times and then that won't work again and will need to be replaced too. If it is a wiring problem have it fixed by a certified garage so if anything goes wrong with it again you can bring it back and they will fix it. Make sure they have a good reputation.
Try replacing the solinoide, and make sure ALL connections are clean and making good contact. Also you should have the strater amperage draw and the charging system tested.
it is a possibility that it is bad or the ignition switch. cause a bad ignition switch will not send voltage for starter to start. an ignition switch handles a bout 50% of all voltage needs. the safety switch does it start in nuetral, or any other gear! if it starts in any other gear then it is out of adjustment. or needs replaced. first check and see if you have voltage from battery to starter, if so, check small ignition wire at starter. either wire could be bad also.
Check your starter cable down at the starter. Even if you jump the battery you are still feeding the same starter cable under your truck.
It sounds like your battery may be shorting. It will still break connection. You could try to bypass your battery and feed the jumper wires direct to the cables with the cables disconnected from the battery posts of the bad battery. Block the cables with wood or some insulator and then try to start the truck. If it pulls down again you will know it is not the original battery. Then it must be the starter cable or the starter.
Check the ground wires. There use to be a frame ground under the area of the passengers door on the frame.
the starter should be replaced. The solenoid is kikcing the pinion out but there is no contact being made to turn the starter motor. I have the exact same truck and before i changed the starter used the old starter tap trick. Tap the starter casing with a hammer and it should start turning again. hope this was helpful for you. Good luck.
note the diagram for starter relay, the relay has two sides, the switch side, left side in diagram. The control side, right side in diagram. If you used jumper on the switch side and it cranked, but, w/o the jumper, it wouldn't, check the control side of relay for voltage and ground. You can see 15 amp fuse, goes hot with key in the crank position. Also note the transmission range sensor. The bottom black wire on control side is chassis ground. By using jumper on switch side of relay, it bypasses the control side. good luck
Im gonna go through the battery cables again this morning and also I am going to check the motor to make 100% sure its a electric problem. Going to manualy rotate the motor.
Was able to get the truck running and home, I took a wire and connected it to the pos battery terminal and touched the wire to the small post on the starter. The truck fired right up. Got it home and replaced the small red wire running from the starter to the solinoid. Now its back to where is was before, not starting or turning over the starter. I did notice a black box located under the dash inside. Its making a rapid clicking noise like its a anti theft system. there is alot of wires going to the box including a wire that plugs into it like a anntenia. Could the anti theft system be causing it not to start? Any advice would be greatly helpful
After replacing everything and it still now working right I went back to the basics and through using trial and error with a piece of jumper wire I finally realized the problem was the pos battery cable and the jumper off the pos to the starter switch. I changed out the pos cable and build a new jumper to the starter switch and then it started right up.
Well at least I know that I am not going to have to replace the starter, relays, pos cable or ignition switch anytime soon.
Thanks for everybody helping me
Oh, wanted to add that I am also rebuilding a old vw bug, got her running pretty good but any advice on those cars would also be greatly helpful. Next project is a rat rod that is going to be made out of a 34 ford coup. Any info for that project would be great, also looking for parts for a rat rod project
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