My 1994 honda civic central locking is not working properly, when i open the drivers door using the key the other three doors does not open, when i push down the lock on the drivers door all doors lock, but when i pull it up the other three doors do not open, what could be the problem?
I recently tried the DIY service and repair manuals from a website and it actually helped me repair transmission problem in my jcb 3cx site-master. It would'nt move forward or reverse, engine was good both solenoids for forward and reverse worked, but still couldn't diagnose the problem.
I don't have much technical knowledge but I just followed it step-wise, and now it works perfect! covers wiring, codes, diagrams, torque specs, PCV, everything
got it from www.reliable-store.com
SOURCE: 2001 Honda Civic door lock
If there is nothing jammed in the barrel, you will need to pull apart the lining of the interior of the door, disconnect the power motor for that switch, then see if it locks by key, sounds like the motor is seized, of out of allignment, easily fixed with a second hand or reco motor, or witha simple adjustment. Good luck, hope it helps.
SOURCE: 2004 Honda Accord Euro. Central
If you can get hold of a door lock wiring diagram (maybe photocopied from the dealer?) and unplug the wiring connector to the door lock motor, put a testlight across the positive and negative terminals for the lock motor. If the light flashes on for a second or so when you press the remote button then the motor is getting power but not operating, so it is faulty. If there is no flash, either you've hooked it up wrong or there is a wiring or central lock module fault. The time and effort that you put into doing this is probably better spent on taking the car to the dealer, as their trained technicians will diagnose the fault quickly. And they'll probably go through the diagnosis procedure regardless of whether you've already done it, rather than replacing parts on the say so of the customer who may or may not have diagnosed the fault correctly (no offense intended).
Hope this helps,
Mark.
SOURCE: Fuel tank door release, 2004 Honda Civic
The release cable is sticking or broken. To release the fuel door, open the trunk and pull off the fabric liner on the left side of the trunk. Behind this liner is the fuel door release cable; this cable leads to the fuel door and attaches with a twist-lock connector. It is cylindrical with two tabs. Twist the connector clockwise about 90 degrees and it should pull out, releasing the door.
Just remember, the fuel door will not stay closed until you put the connector back in.
SOURCE: driver door handle will not open door 1993 Honda Civic
there is a pin in the door handle might have broke off there are two 10 mm nuts that will release the handle but you have to take the door panels off and remove it any local junk yard should have it or can order it for you
SOURCE: 2004 Honda Accord Euro. Central
I am a mechanic and had the same problem with a 2005 Acord that I purchased couple of months ago. Contact through the trade provided little help. The problem arose during a week that we in Adelaide, South Australia had a record o 40+ degrees centigrade heat. I noticed the drop knob slightly moving when the immobiliser was activated, but the drivers door failed to lock. Key locking would lock all doors however.
The cost of a door actuator from a Honda dealer was $185.00 (Aus), about $250 (US). The spare parts guy told me they had them in stock and sold a number of them. As a result I decided to find out whether the actuator was in fact faulty. I susequently removed the door lock and actuator assembly from the door. (A fiddly type job). The actuator assembly is in a plastic sealed assembly. By using a lot of patience and a box cutter I was able to cut around the assembly and then carefully lever the plastic housing apart. This revealled the small electric motor (similar to a slot car motor) that drove a worm and wheel assembly and a system of cams that actuated the door lock system. I found on dismantling the electric motor that the armature was coated with grease from the wormwheel /cam assembly that is mounted above the motor when installed in the vehicle. I cleaned the armature and brushes using superfine wet and dry carborundum paper, undercut and cleaned out the two armature segments of all remaining grease with a solvent. The motor was then tested with 12 volts and found to be ok. I then reinstalled the motor and glued the housing back together. It now works fine. I believe the housing was either initially overfilled with lubricant or that the high ambient temperature caused the grease to melt and flow into the elecric motor contaminating the motor. (There is no seal between the gearbox and the electric motor). The job took a few hours from start to finish but I saved the cost of purchasing the part and didn't let it beat me.
Cheers and beers
Alistair Buckley
435 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×