Engine compartment mount is over battery, can it be safely removed to change battery on 2005 La cross

To change the motor mount driver's side of a 2004 Chrysler PT Cruiser, you will need to follow these steps:

1. Raise the vehicle: Use a jack to raise the vehicle off the ground and support it with jack stands. Make sure the vehicle is securely supported before proceeding.
2. Locate the motor mount: The motor mount is located on the driver's side of the engine compartment, between the engine and the frame of the vehicle.
3. Disconnect the negative battery cable: This will help prevent any electrical issues while working on the vehicle.
4. Remove the engine mount bolts: The motor mount is held in place by bolts that attach it to the engine and the frame. Using a socket wrench, remove these bolts.
5. Remove the old motor mount: With the bolts removed, the old motor mount should come loose. Carefully lift it out of the engine compartment.
6. Install the new motor mount: Place the new motor mount in position and align the bolt holes. Insert the bolts and tighten them to the manufacturer's specified torque.
7. Reinstall the battery cable: Reconnect the negative battery cable and test the engine mount for proper operation.
8. Lower the vehicle: Carefully lower the vehicle to the ground and test drive the vehicle to ensure everything is working correctly.

It's important to keep in mind that this is a general guide and the steps may vary depending on the specific model and year of your vehicle. It's best to consult the vehicle's service manual or seek the help of a professional technician. It's also important to use the right tools and safety equipment, such as gloves, safety glasses, and jack stands.
Also, it's important to note that changing a motor mount can be a difficult task and it's best to have a professional technician perform the repair.

This answer covers:
2005 Chrysler 300 6cyl VIN "G" 3.5L SFI HO (72% of 2005 300's)
2005 Chrysler 300 6cyl VIN "R" 2.7L MFI DOHC (28% of 2005 300's)
2005 Dodge Magnum 5.7L engine

Alternator

Removal & Installation


WARNING - Precautions Section:
Disconnect negative cable from battery before removing battery output wire (b+ wire) from alternator. Failure to do so can result in injury or damage to electrical system.

2.7L Engine

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
2. Disconnect negative battery cable.
3. Remove alternator drive belt.
4. Disconnect alternator field circuit plug.
5. Remove B+ terminal nut and wire.
6. Remove 2 lower mounting bolts.
7. Remove alternator.

To install:

1. Install alternator.
2. Install upper bolt mounting bolt.
3. Install 2 lower mounting bolts.
4. Tighten bolts to 48 ft. lbs. (65 Nm).
5. Install B+ terminal nut and wire. Tighten nut to 115 inch lbs. (13 Nm).
6. Connect alternator field circuit plug.
7. Install alternator drive belt.
8. Connect negative battery cable.

3.5L Engines

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
2. Disconnect negative battery cable.
3. Remove alternator drive belt.
4. Remove bracket bolts.
5. Remove upper mounting bolt.
6. Raise and support vehicle.
7. Remove middle splash pan.
8. Disconnect alternator field circuit plug.
9. Remove B+ terminal nut and wire.
10. Remove lower mounting bolts.
11. Remove alternator.

To install:

1. Install alternator.
2. Install lower mounting bolts. Loosen install the upper mounting bolt.
3. Tighten lower mounting bolts to 48 ft. lbs. (65 Nm).
4. Connect alternator field circuit plug.
5. Install B+ terminal nut and wire. Tighten nut to 115 inch lbs. (13 Nm).
6. Install middle splash pan.
7. Lower vehicle.
8. Remove loose installed upper bolt.
9. Install bracket and bracket bolt.
10. Install upper mounting bolt and bracket.
11. Tighten upper mounting bolt to 48 ft. lbs. (65 Nm).
12. Tighten the bracket bolt to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
13. Install alternator drive belt.
14. Connect negative battery cable.

5.7L Engines

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
2. Disconnect negative battery cable at battery.
3. Remove alternator drive belt.
4. Raise and support vehicle.
5. Unsnap plastic insulator cap from B+ output terminal.
6. Remove B+ terminal mounting nut at rear of alternator. Disconnect terminal from alternator.
7. Disconnect field wire connector at rear of alternator by pushing on connector tab.
8. Remove alternator support bracket nut and bolt. Remove support bracket. See Figure 1.
9. Remove 2 alternator mounting bolts. See Figure 2.
10. Remove alternator from vehicle.

Fig. 1 Alternator Support Bracket - 5.7L engine



Fig. 2 Alternator Mounting Bolts - 5.7L engine

REMOVAL
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Remove (UPPER RADIATOR CROSS MEMBER) and relocate (UPPER RADIATOR CROSS MEMBER REMOVED) the upper radiator crossmember, (Refer to 23 - BODY/EXTERIOR/RADIATOR CROSSMEMBER - REMOVAL).
Remove the radiator fan module (FAN MODULE IN VEHICLE) (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN - REMOVAL).
Remove the wiring harness clip from front mount.
Remove the coolant line clamp bolt (COOLANT LINE BRACKET).
Remove the upper nut from the front mount (FRONT RUBBER MOUNT UPPER NUT).
Remove the upper starter mounting bolt (UPPER STARTER BOLT).
Remove the middle starter bolt (MIDDLE STARTER BOLT).
Raise vehicle and support.
Remove the lower front mount nut (FRONT RUBBER MOUNT IN POSITION).
Raise and support engine (SUPPORT ENGINE).
Remove the lower bracket bolt to transmission (BRACKET TRANS BOLT).
Remove the lower bracket bolt to engine block (BRACKET ENGINE BLOCK BOLT).
Relocate the front mount and bracket.
Disconnect the positive battery cable from starter
Disconnect the solenoid connector from starter.
Remove the lower starter bolt (STARTER LOWER BOLT).
Remove starter from vehicle.

Water Pump REMOVAL & INSTALLATION CAUTION
Never open, service or drain the radiator or cooling system when hot; serious burns can occur from the steam and hot coolant. Also, when draining engine coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted to ethylene glycol antifreeze and could drink any that is left in an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal in sufficient quantities. Always drain coolant into a sealable container. Coolant should be reused unless it is contaminated or is several years old. 1.8L Engine

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Drain the cooling system.
3. Remove the timing belt.
4. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
5. Remove the engine oil dipstick tube bracket bolt(s) from the water pump.
6. Remove the two bolts and the gasket from the water inlet pipe.
7. Remove all but the uppermost water pump mounting bolt.
8. Lower the vehicle.
9. Remove the remaining bolts and the water pump assembly.
10. If the water pump is being reused, remove all gasket material from the water pump.
11. Remove all gasket material from the engine block. Fig. 1: Exploded view of a water pump mounting - 1.8L engine
    To install:
    
12. Install a new gasket onto the water pump.
13. Place the water pump into its mounting position, then install the uppermost bolt.
14. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
15. Install the remaining water pump mounting bolts and tighten all bolts to 14-19 ft. lbs. (19-25 Nm).
16. Install a new gasket onto the water inlet pipe.
17. Install the two bolts from the water inlet pipe to the water pump and tighten to 14-19 ft. lbs. (19-25 Nm).
18. Install the bolt to the engine oil dipstick tube bracket.
19. Lower the vehicle.
20. Install the timing belt.
21. Fill the cooling system.
22. Connect the negative battery cable.
23. Start the engine and allow it to reach operating temperature. Check for coolant leaks.
24. Check the coolant level and add coolant, as necessary.

1.9L Engine

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Drain the cooling system.
3. Remove the timing belt cover and the timing belt.
4. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
5. Remove the lower radiator hose from the water pump.
6. Remove the heater hose from the water pump.
7. Lower the vehicle.
8. Support the engine with a suitable hydraulic floor jack.
9. Remove the right engine mount attaching bolts and roll the engine mount aside.
10. Remove the water pump attaching bolts.
11. Using the floor jack, raise the engine enough to provide clearance for removing the water pump.
12. Remove the water pump and gasket from the engine through the top of the engine compartment. Fig. 2: Disconnect the lower radiator hose (A) from the water pump (B)
    Fig. 3: Disconnect the heater hose (A) from the water pump (B)
    Fig. 4: Remove the water pump's lower mounting bolts (arrows) . . .
    Fig. 5: . . . and the upper mounting bolts
    Fig. 6: After raising the engine enough to provide clearance, remove the pump from the engine compartment
    Fig. 7: Use a scraper to clean the mating surfaces of the cylinder block and water pump
    To install:
    
13. Make sure the mating surfaces of the cylinder block and water pump are clean and free of gasket material.
14. If the water pump is to be replaced, transfer the timing belt tensioner components to the new water pump.
15. With the engine supported and raised with a suitable floor jack, place the water pump and the gasket on the cylinder block and install the four attaching bolts. Tighten the bolts to 15-22 ft. lbs. (20-30 Nm).
16. Install the timing belt and cover.
17. Roll the engine mount into position and install the mount bolts. Remove the floor jack.
18. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
19. Connect the heater hose to the pump.
20. Lower the vehicle.
21. Connect the negative battery cable.
22. Refill the cooling system.
23. Start the engine, allow it to reach normal operating temperature and check for coolant leaks.
24. Check the coolant level and add as necessary.

Automatic Transaxle Assembly REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery. Detach the wire connector at the Mass Air Flow sensor.
2. If equipped, remove the cross brace to strut towers, as follows:
   1. Loosen the bar assembly through-bolts.
   2. Remove the inboard strut nuts. Fig. 1: The automatic transaxle fluid level sensor is mounted in the top of the transaxle case
      
      
   3. Remove the brace assembly.
   4. Reinstall the inboard strut nuts. Fig. 2: Exploded view of the strut tower cross brace
      
   
   
3. Remove the air intake duct.
4. Disconnect the cruise control cable from the throttle body.
5. Remove the shift control linkage from the mounting bracket at the transaxle and the lever at the manual shaft.
6. Label and detach the connectors from the following:
   1. Park/neutral/backup lamp switch.
   2. Transaxle electrical connector.
   3. Vehicle speed sensor and fuel pipe retainers.
7. Remove the fuel pipe retainers.
8. Disconnect the vacuum modulator hose from the modulator. WARNING
   You must support or remove the engine. If the engine is not support you may damage the engine, transaxle, halfshafts or many other components.
   
9. Remove the three top transaxle-to-engine block bolts and install a suitable engine support fixture. Load the support fixture by tightening the wingnuts several turns in order to relieve the tension on the frame and the mounts. Fig. 3: You have to use a suitable holding fixture to support the engine. If necessary, one can usually be rented
   
   
10. Turn the steering wheel to the full left position.
11. Raise and safely support the vehicle. Remove both front tire and wheel assemblies.
12. Drain the automatic transaxle fluid into a suitable container. Fig. 4: Drain the automatic transaxle fluid into a suitable drain pan, but be careful, as this can be messy
    
    

Fig. 1: The starter is mounted to the transaxle bell housing and is easily accessible from the top side of the engine compartment

Hope helps (remember rated this).

LOOK UNDER HOOD IN THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT FOR A BLACK PLASTIC BOX MOUNTED ON THE INNER FENDER WELL ON THE RIGHT SIDE OF ENGINE COMPARTMENT.TO GET TO AIR FILTER YOU HAVE TO REMOVE THE 4 SCREWS ON AIR FILTER HOUSING COVER.

1. The battery is left-front-corner under the cross-mount and the main power point box.
2. To remove the battery, you first need to remove the gray-black plastic cover over the windshield wiper/firewall top area.
3. That done, you remove the bolts that hold down the left cross-brace, and you remove the brace from the engine compartment. With the brace out of the way, and with the power box moved to the side, you have access to the battery and its clamping bolts.
4. There's a plastic clamping wedge down at the base of the battery that you'll want to remember to reinstall.
5. Sounds complex; actually pretty simple.

The engine mounts (2) and the transmission mount serve to hold the drive train compontents in the chassis and do so flexibly and with the strength exceeding the torque generated by the engine. If not for the mounts, when opening the throttle (in gear), the engine and transmission would lurch out of the engine compartment!

Check the mounts by raising the hood and, with the engine running, holding the brake firmly with one foot, select drive or reverse, briefly accellerate while holding the brake firmly--observe while doing this the engine will rise slightly (good) to a couple of inches (not good). Do not let the car move, nor let anyone stand in the car's path were it to move. Accellerate for not more than two seconds when checking the mounts.

To change them you need to raise the car and safely support on jackstands under the side rail of the car in the indicated position. I have been able to do this raising only the passenger side.

Then you will need to carefully lift the engine, too. I have used a hydralic "bottle Jack" placed under the block at the edge of the oil pan.

Using 18mm wrenches loosen the nuts at the top and bottom of the mounts. I change one mount at a time. Remove the nutsand the the worn mount (careful- it's fluid filled-- nasty stuff, you would not like spilling it on yourself).

You may have to lift the engine quite high and wiggle the mount around to clear getting it out and the new one in. Orient the mount correctly so that the tabs fit the slots, start the nuts on the studs carefully, you don't want these cross threaded, then tighten completely, having lowered the engine fully onto the new mount first.

Check the new mount as described above.

Be very careful in doing all of this. Use tire chalks, set the parking brake. Check that the car is secure on the stands prior to getting under it. Use common sense too.

JUST COMPLETED THIS JOB TODAY. MAKE SURE THE ENGINE HAS COOLED DOWN . IT TOOK APPROX 2 1/2 HRS. DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE POST ON THE BATTERY. JACK UP PASSENGER SIDE FRONT AND SUPPORT ON JACK STANDS. REMOVE PASS. FROUNT TIRE. DRAIN RADIATOR INTO CONTAINER FOR PROPER DISPOSAL OR REUSE. USING FLOOR JACK PROVIDE SLIGHT TENSION ON OIL PAN WITH A SHORT 2 X 4 WOOD PIECE TO PROTECT OIL PAN. LOOSEN 3 ENGINE MOUNT BOLTS ON PASS. SIDE OF ENGINE COMPARTMENT. ALLOW APPROX 1" BETWEEN SHOULDER OF BOLTS AND MOUNT. LOWER ENGINE UNTILL BOLTS ARE SET ONTO MOUNT. REMOVE ENGINE SPLASH SHIELD INSIDE WHEEL WELL OF REMOVED TIRE. LOCATE WATER PUMP AND LOOSEN 3 PULLEY MOUNTING BOLTS (THIS IS WHILE BELT IS ON PULLEY) REMOVE SURPENTINE BELT AND CONTINUE TO FULLY REMOVE THE PUMP PULLEY. IT WONT COME OUT AS THE PUMP & PULLEY HAVE TO COME OUT TOGEATHER. REMOVE 5 WATER PUMP BOLTS AND CAREFULLY WORK WATER PUMP OUT BETWEEN THE ENGINE AND VEHICLE FRAME. CLEAN ALL MATING/GASKET SURFACES AND BOLTS. USING A SMALL AMOUNT OF TACKY SEALENT TO INSURE THE NEW WATER PUMP SEAL STAYS IN PLACE, THE INSTALL IS PRITTY MUCH THE REVERSAL OF REMOVAL.

GOOD LUCK, REMEMBER TO TIGHTEN ALL BOLTS TO MFR SPECS AND BLEED THE AIR OUT OF THE COOLANT AS REQUIRED.