Replaced back brake pads, but the abs light stays on

Have you checked the code you have on your ABS control module ?
Would also help if you can add specific vehicle information like year, make and model.

which brake warning light is on? the xtype does not have pad wear sensors fitted. so i guess you mean the abs light or the handbrake light.more than likely its the abs light and the common problem is the reluctor rings on one or the other of the rear outer constant velocity joints corroded/ fell off get the fault codes out of the abs module to help.

Did you bench bleed the MC before installing it? If not, that's the problem. MUST be bench bled or you'll always have air. If brakes lights are on, the brake switch is out of adjustment OR (since you replaced the MC), the push rod is out of adjustment

Most ABS lights are caused by a fault with one of the wheel speed sensors. If your brakes are working good, there should be no further bleeding necessary. Remove the wheels and inspect the speed sensors for loose connections, bad wires, or oil and grease buildup on the sensor face. Don't soak the sensors with cleaner. Use a cloth dampened with brake parts cleaner and just wipe the surface clean. If the light stays on, you may have to have it cleared with a a scan tool.

Hello,
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A clean sensor is a happy sensor
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Air today, gone tomorrow
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Hi


To start with check the Speed Sensor on the front and rear. Usually the issue is with the rear speed sensor which can be replaced easily and will cost you around $25-$40. There is a sensor at the top of the rear differential for the ABS system. When the ABS sensor on the diff goes bad the Speedo no longer will work, the odometer stops recording mileage and both brake and ABS light comes on. You also loose O/D or "Lock-up" in the torque converter. The sensor is inexpensive and can be changed in about 30 mins.
Replace rear differential speed sensor as follows:
a) Remove parking brake cable bracket (1/2" socket)
b) Remove speed sensor bolt (9/16" deep socket)
c) Remove metal speed sensor cover
d) Remove speed sensor from rear differential housing (use channel lock pliers, twist gently back and forth while applying upward pressure. Once the speed sensor has a small gap between it and the rear differential housing, insert a flat-blade screwdriver and gently apply upward pressure while gently twisting speed sensor back and forth.
e) Disconnect speed sensor from speed sensor cable
f) Lubricate new sensor with WD-40, insert into rear differential housing. It will NOT go in all the way by hand, so do NOT force it nor hit it with anything made out of metal.
g) Replace metal speed sensor cover
h) Insert speed sensor bolt and tighten LIGHTLY until a small amount of pressure is felt. Tap speed sensor with rubber hammer until it pops into housing. Finish tightening of speed sensor bolt.
i) Replace brake cable bracket, replace 1/2" nut and tighten
j) Disconnect positive battery cable for 2 minutes, reconnect positive battery cable

Please do accept the solution if the issue is resolved or else revert for further assistance.


Thanks
Rylee

Try having the dealer flush and bleed your system. It is very hard to bleed ABS systems yourself and have safe brakes that still work afterward. Bleeding non-ABS brakes yourself is easy not the same for ABS brakes. Valving, sensors and what-not require a tech and the correct equipment in my opinion. You do it wrong and you could ruin your ABS system. Do that and see if they firm up. I replaced my brake shoes/pads at the same time all new everything in back, drums/springs everything and new rotors up front. then I had the chevy dealer flush, refill and bleed system. Stiffer pedal and brakes work better. Keep in mind the brakes on 99 Tahoes are inaedequate, require new rotors often, heat up and fade/glaze pads regularly. I replace my pads long before they wear down because they glaze up and start fading early. I'll rough em up once maybe, next time, new ones. Every two brake jobs, new rotors for me. Just how it is. They will stiffen a bit and work better but they will never be awesome brakes. Just how it is on 99 and earlier Tahoes. Hope it helps. Very important to bleed correctly though. I'll bleed my 83 Toyota 4x4 myself but not the Tahoe.

Check to see if your brake pads and rotors are in good condition. Or if you have replaced the pads yourself and have not reset the wheel sensors this would cause the ABS Antilock Brake System light and the ASC Automatic Stability Control light to stay on as the ASC uses the ABS brakes with computer assistance to control the car

u will need to check the wheel speed sensors behind the brake rotors to see if they got damaged or disconnected during the brake job, as long as the ABS light is on the Anti-lock brake system is disabled, regular braking without the need of ABS will feel fine.

Its probably how your bleeding your brakes, but first make sure the bleeding nipples are facing upward. You should bleed diagonaly, front pass wheel then rear driver wheel. Then front driver wheel and rear pass wheel. The abs light has its own computer your have to get it scanned to clear the codes and turn off the light