89 accord dx starts and idles fine but hesitates

Since it is so old, Start with a compression test. 90lbs is about minimal. The cylinders should be with in 10% of each other. If your there or lower, Time to retire or rebuild this engine. This part here will save you time, trouble and money into an engine that won't be any better when your done.

Engine Runs Rough, Stalls, Hesitates on Acceleration, Hard ...

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Ford Probe Engine Runs Rough, Stalls, Hesitates on Acceleration, Hard Starting, Poor Performance. This is a verified problem based on 9 reports. Learn more ...

Starting Problems - 1997 Ford Probe - RepairPal

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Dec 5, 2010 - Starting Problems on 1997 Ford Probe ... If the engine runs rough,stalls, hesitates on acceleration, is hard to start, or has generally poor ...

A new misfire/hesitation on accel. Problem.. - ProbeTalk.com Forums

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My sputtering & stalling 1993 Honda Accord - YouTube

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My sputtering & stalling 1993 Honda Accord ... 1996 Acura Integra, hesitation accelerating & misfire. ... 1993 Honda Accord Start Up and Review 2.2 L 4-Cylinder ... SIR B16A Engine sputter/ power loss at higher RPM - Duration: 1:14. by ... 1994 Honda Civic Check Engine Light Code Retrieval Tutorial ...

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What should I do if once I turn on my Ac my idle drops as if it's gonna die, and .... to a complete stop the rpms start going up and the car accelerates on its own. ... Honda Accord LX, and my Honda just started sputtering in idle. check engine .... My cousin replaced my radiator on my 90 civic and since then my temp gauge is ...

Acceleration Bog/Sputter/Hesitation - Honda-Tech

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Jun 11, 2010 - 1990 Honda Accord Ex F22 209000 miles, recent alternator change When I ... When I take off from a stoplight I get a little hesitation/bogging/sputteringfeeling until about 2,000 RPM then ... My 1999 Accord had a similar problem (F18B2engine). ... It only lasted a second or so before it would actually rev up.

check compression is it more then 10% difference between cylinders you have a leak also check for fouled plugs. wires fuel pressure, catalytic converter. i have the same problem in my lincoln its a leaking valve seat

If the car starts to hesitate at right around 2000 to 2300 RPMs then the EGR ports on the intake manifold need to be cleaned out. The exhaust gas is flooding only one cylinder and causing the hesitation(misfire of that flooded cylinder) since all the other ports are blocked off with carbon build-up. This happen right when the EGR valve opens, letting in the exhaust gas. To find out if this is indeed your problem, remove and plug up the rubber vacuum hose going into the EGR valve and drive the car. If it stops hesitating, that's the problem.

Could be one or both of two things.

1. The accelerator pump in the carb is clogged, the linkage is unhooked, or the diaphram in the pump is bad. It's cheap to replace and comes in the carb rebuild kit. This usually just causes hesitation when you step on the gas pedal. It doesn't usually cause the engine to stop running.

2. More likely is that the main jet in the carb is clogged. At idle, high vacuum under the closed throttle plate in the carb causes fuel to flow thru the idle jet. As the throttle plate opens (as you step on the pedal), the vacuum under the plate dissipates, stopping the flow of fuel thru the idle jet, and the vacuum ABOVE the throttle plate increases, which is supposed to then draw fuel from the carb bowl thru the main jet in the carb. If the main jet is clogged with dirt, then it can idle just fine and die as soon as you step on the pedal.

sounds like the idle air screw needs adjusted out on the carb, to slow the engine.. did you just get the vehicle, and trying to fix it up, or is this something that just happened??

Start by checking the choke. While the hood is up reach in to the carb and give it the gas.If the choke is normal then check your distributor cap for cracks(especially hairline ones,then check your rotor etc.
Best of luck

needs tune up , whats milage?? motor repair possible,valves

You might have compression issues on a specific cylinder that only show up when you accelerate. Unless you can do it yourself, you'd have to take it in.

You can test the theory by getting one of those oil additives that supposedly seal compression leaks. If if solves the problem for a little while, you've got your answer.