Once engine warms up, about 3-4 minutes, as you accelerate the engine misses and almost stalls. It will catch and then run for another few minutes and repeat.. If you go to stop the rpms will drop below 100.

Keith, PLEASE !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! TELL US ON WHAT

its really a GM car, end to end.

no engines codes, is not true i bet ,
some codes take 1 to 3 trips, or dont store
and if you get CEL glowing, driving too much can clear the codes.
so.... that means you must scan it failing. see?

sputtering is misfiring (bad spark or way to rich fuel)

why do you jump all over fuel first.
try spark FIRST no gas engine burn fuel right with bad spark'
not one, and is first not last.
ever heard of tuneup, done one in last decade.
you know, spark parts? plugs and wire top list.

in the rules of basics its:
engine good, (compression test pass, and vacuum looks ok)
then spark
last fuel
why do that backwards/?

This stalling is fuel related issue.When the fuel flow becomes low, the engine ask for fuel.But fuel pump does not send required fuel and engine stalls.In some cases, it stall then dies after stalling for few minutes.In some cases, if stalls for few seconds or minutes, then again get required fuel , as you accelerate more and engine starts/runs normally.But once this problem is started and it repeats again n again.This is indication f low fuel pressure.Get the fuel pressure checked and replace fuel pump and fuel filter.-----------

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http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2011/05/from-where-to-order-car-parts-online.html ----------
This will help.Thanks.Helpmech.

Crank position sensor fault. Check that the connection is clean and that the wiring to the PCM has continuity. If it all checks out swap out the CKP. The situation you describe matches the last of symptoms below:

Symptoms of faulty crank position sensor

• Starting difficulty/failure/stall - If the faulty CKP timing problems are severe they may prevent the engine to fire, to fire and then stall, or stall at some random time without warning.
• Hot engine shut off and failure to restart - The engine may start and run perfectly from cold but will begin to misfire or suddenly shut off after about 15 minutes once the engine has reached operating temperature. This effect is due to thermal expansion of the CKP causing an intermittent break in electrical continuity and therefore the signal output to the ECU is interrupted. Sometimes the engine will restart but fail again after a further 15 minutes. On other occasions the engine will not restart until it has completely cooled down.

• Misfire - miss-timed spark delivery caused by a faulty CKP signal can cause misfire and back fire events.
• Hesitant acceleration, acceleration ceiling - Miss-timed ignition due to a faulty CKP signal can be exacerbated by increased engine speed. The engine maybe run evenly at idle but will fail to accelerate properly at higher revs until the engine reaches a power ceiling.

How to check? If the CKP has died completely there will be very high resistance between the device's electrical connections associated with the open circuit. Furthermore spark delivery to the plugs will be absent. First check that the electrical connection is clean and secure; dirt or corrosion can impair an otherwise healthy CKP signal from getting through. If the CKP suffers from a drop in voltage associated with heat increase this can only be detectable with a voltmeter or oscilloscope with a graphical display; an analogue display voltmeter might just be able to show needle fluctuations due to voltage variation output.

2 pin socket (magnetic - sine wave output). One pin is 'ground' the other is 'signal'. A voltmeter set to 2 volts AC should measure a signal in the 0.2 to 2 volts range on the 'signal' pin.

3 pin socket (Hall effect, magneto - square wave form output). One pin is 'reference' (5volts), one pin is 'ground' and the third pin is 'signal'. A DC voltage should be detectable in the 0.5 to 1.5 volt range from the 'signal' pin.

It is important that the voltage measurement take place at start up when the engine is cold and again, 20 minutes later, when the engine has fully warmed up to operating temperature. Often the voltage output from faulty sensors declines with temperature rise.

Sounds like it's running rich when it should be pulling off the "choke" as it's warm-ish. Maybe a temperature sensor somewhere.

I would check ecu i had same problem open it up its behind the dash and look at the 3 big capictors im bettin ones leakin

COOLANT temp sensor

is bad not allowing engine to run enriched fuel

engine heats up enriched fuel is not needed

proof can be found in fault memory

Change the IAC the idle air control. You may be able to clean it and put it back on.

Don't know if it applies to your diesel but most later gas engined vehicles have a 'cold start' valve that supplies additional fuel to the fuel/air mix along with boosting the idle speed until some warming of the engine is sensed.

many automobiles behave that way on a cold start, so you don't have to worry about it. just continue to rev the engine until it is warm!