I put a reman. manual trans in my 92 F-250 7.3 Diesel. I pushed the clutch in and it stayed at the floor. I crawled under and seen some clutch fluid coming out of the Slave Cylinder. The sleeve pushed out of the cylinder whick wasn't a big deal. The arm it pushes seemes to be jammed and I can seem to pull it out very easily. What do you think would cause this to jam up inside?

Not electrical. this either the master cylinder on the fire wall or the slave cylinder in or on the side of the transmission. You could also have a broken line between the two if them. Check for leaks.

Eric, how are you confirming whether or not the car goes into gear if you shift gears without the engine running? One way would be to put it in 1st and see if you can push the car. If you can't, it is in gear.

Another option is to roll the car slightly forward or backward (engine off) while trying to put the car in gear. Once it is in gear, then the car shouldn't move any further. However, if it goes into gear, DO NOT start the car without taking it back out of gear.

The clutch is much more likely to be the problem than the transmission.

If the clutch fluid ever ran dry, then the clutch hydraulics will need to be bled of air. Otherwise, the problem could be the clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder or throwout bearing. Since you didn't report the clutch slipping (e.g. engine revving without accelerating when in gear) it is likely not the clutch disks themselves.

There could be a YouTube video showing how to do this. If the clutch cylinder is accessible from the outside of the transmission, there will be a bleeder valve. It may have been designed as a tube leading to the outside. Put a piece of clear plastic tubing over the bleeder valve nipple and make sure the master clutch cylinder is filled with recommended brake fluid. Two people will be necessary to push the clutch pedal slowiy to the floor with the valve opened a quarter turn. Watch the fluid being forced out through the tubing. It should come out without any entrapped bubbles. Close the bleeder valve before releasing the pedal so that fluid is drawn into the line. Repeated these two steps until no bubbles are seen in the tubing and at each cycle, make sure the level of brake fluid in the master valve stays full.

might have to crawl under the car and pull the plug on the side of the trans and put your finger in it. fluid shoud be right at the bottom of the hole.

Probably shift interlock on the steering column or the parking pawl in the trans could be stuck. I've seen the shift cable housing break on these, too. You will have to crawl under the truck to see if the cable is broken between the trans and floor where it comes through.

on the transmission there is a slave cylinder that works like a brake cylinder, when you apply pressure to the clutch pedal a rod inside the vehicle under the dash pushes into a clutch master cylinder, (almost like a brake master cylinder without the reservoir, as the clutch master cylinder works off the brake master cylinders reservoir) the plunger in the clutch master cylinder applies fluid pressure to the slave cylinder,(located down on the trans near the clutch fork assembly) which projects a piston rod into the clutch fork dis-engaging the clutch. To bleed the clutch slave cylinder locate the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder,break loose so it loosens and tightens easily. Check fluid in brake master cylinder reservoir,fill if needed, while bleeder on the slave cyl is closed have a helper push clutch pedal to floor and back 7-8 times, (At first the clutch might stay at the floor, just pull it up by hand or foot and continue) after several pumps with no rest time push pedal to the floor and hold down with foot pressure, at this time loosen the bleeder on slave untill fluid leaks out, watch for air bubbles, close bleeder and repeat untill there is no sign of air bubbles, (make sure to check fluid in the brake master cylinder and keep fill as needed, do not let fluid get less than 1/2 empty as it might **** air and you will have to start over) If this does not bring clutch to operate then you need to check if slave cylinder is reachig its full extension of push rod or not. If it is not then you will have to replace the clutch master cyl or the clutch slave cyl or both as seals are bad and wont hold pressure. Or you need to inspect the clutch fork,the throw-out bearing, or the pressure plate fingers and clutch plate for failure or broken bent parts. I hope it turns out to be a easy fix on that clutching thing.

could be low on tranny fluid ,their is no dipstick on gearbox you have to lift it up with a four poster ramp to gain access ,if its charging but battery going flat then it may be time for a new battery ,and these cars have a monster battery in the boot under the floor ,Now the diesel variant with a manual gearbox are worth money though .

you will have to remove the trans for inpsection, i suspect the release bearing is stuck on the tranny out put sleeve

I do not know what brand you are working on. Some have bleeders, some do not. If it has a bleeder fill the Clutch Master Cylinder with brake fluid and have someone push and hold the clutch pedal. Put your safety glasses on and crawl under and crack the bleeder. Air will bubble out of the bleeder and the clutch pedal will go to the floor. HOLD THE PEDAL ON THE FLOOR until you close the bleeder. Do it again and again until no more air comes out. The procedure if there is no bleeder is the same except you must loosen and tighten the line itself. The clutch should work if the slave cylinder was the problem to begin with. The Clutch Master Cylinder can be shot and not producing any pressure. The throw out bearing can destroy the clutch fingers and push right through them. If that is what happened the slave cylinder will push the clutch fork just like it should but nothing will happen.

It is probably the clutch slave cylender, leaking fluid, add brake fluid and bleed the system and check for leaks then replace whatever is leaking, sometimes it leaks onto the floor of the car under the pedal.