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What could be causing my 1997 Ford E350 15 pass.club wagon to have excessive vibration when braking from highway speeds 60mph & up. Not so bad at slower speeds? Ford Tech said brakes were good. No vibration noticed otherwise. No drifting or pulling either.
Re: What could be causing my 1997 Ford E350 15 pass.club...
ABS------ Anti Lock Brakes will cause a chatter if applied with a lot of weight pushing it. An E350 is a big rig. Might ask your Ford Tech about that possibility.
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Warped brake rotor usually cause high vibration at high speeds. But you can also feel it at lower speeds. But bad ball joints and tie rod end will cause vibration at high speeds. Ball joints will pop at pot holes, sometimes. Tie rods can be felt in the steering wheel at a stop. Move the wheel slightly to the left and right, you can feel/hear a tap as you turn it.
A SOLUTION for my 95 E350 club wagon: High speed vibration at 70 that went extreme if braking. Checked and replaced every other likely cause. The fix came when discovering that in the rear drums the mechanism to activate the emergency/parking brake was jammed and corroded. This caused the brakes to drag slightly and heat up and glaze the brake shoes. Cleaning and lubricating that mechanism (along with new shoes) made the severe vibration go away. The mechanic said that in 20 years of fixing cars, he had never seen this.
The vibration felt like it was in the front end, but not so. Before finding the problem there was wasted costs in parts and labor that did not fix the problem; including wheel balancing, rotor and pad replacements, shoe and drum replacement, wheel bearing replacement, suspension bushing replacement, shock absorber, pitman arm, sway bar, ball joints, sway bar bushing replacement, and ball joint.
Hopefully you can save all that cost and time by a quick check of the drum emergency brake mechanism. The good side is my suspension is good for another 200,000 miles now. That was costly.
sounds like a worn out transmission mount try rocking the ****** up and down and if the play in the rubber mount appears excessive this can cause all of the stated problems
I would bring it to a garage and have them check the tie rods, ball joints (upper and lower) and cv joints and axels. A bent rim can also cause this. Just because it was balanced dosnt mean the rim is not bent some where. You can still actually balance a badly bent rim. One other option is possible broken belt in one of the tires.
Alignment has alot to do with the tires not shimmying.. Like zero toe setting. Loose componants like tie rod ends and the idler ar worn. You can ck for excess front end play by holding the front and back of the wheel and pushing and pulling on it, like rocking it. OR have someone rock the steering while you watch where the play is from underneath. By rocking I mean turn the steering wheel back and forth. Look at all th joints and pivot points for excess play, which is, movement not immediate to the rest of the steering system. Tire balance is very important. Wheel hop is a sign of a bad tire and it overtaxes the shock absorber. Shocks don't cause shimmy because they are a vertical movement controlA shimmy is lateral or side to side.Wheel balance weights must be spit. If a 2 oz. weight is needed to balance the tire, Oe once should be on the inside of the wheel and one ounce on the outside directly across from each outher.. Loose wheel brgs will cause shimmy, but they would not last long. Caster setting on the wheel alignment will also cause shimmy. Like on a shopping car. too much caster causes the wheel to start fluttering and is very hard on other componants. This may be why you have worn tie rod ends and a bad pitman arm. Worn control arm bushings and ball joints directly affect titre wear and can only be feltwhen the front end hits a dip and detected by side wear on the tire edges. Summary: replace the tie rod end and have the car aligned. Good Luck, -Ned_ sorry about the book
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