When the security light is on while you are cranking the engine, that indicated NATS system malfunction, which is a Nissan security system. you may have an issue with the key it self or with the NATS antenna, which is mounted around the ignition where you insert your key. you cant see the antenna ring, because its inside of the steering column covers by the steering wheel.
SOURCE: 2004 nissan maxima
I have the same issue with my 2004 maxima.The service techs said it was the timing chain tensioners .Since they are hydaulic and they powered by the oil in the car .It is recommended to purge the the engine every time the noise starts to come back. I brought some an it really freaking work because I started to run it into a tree and go buy a toyota
SOURCE: 1993 altima will crank but will not start..
replace the distributor oil is leaking into the electronics of the distributor and shorting out pull cap back off and look and see if oil is leaking out
SOURCE: Nissan Maxima 1996 issues-sensors
Dear Gandhi
1) You better check the 'Idle control relay' - and pray this is not your computer - who may be shorted ( The Computer that govern all elec. functions in the car - is also getting signals from your Mothor Mounts' to ensure a more balanced ride'
If one or more of the Motor Mounts ( There are 3 ) are defective - they send a signal to the computer - and the yellow light ( Check engine soon) - will appear'
2) A Computer can only be fixed by a Nissan dealer ( est. $750 )
3) The Idle control valve - can be adjusted too ( Again - by a Nissan Dealer only .
4) It is NOT an easy problem nor cheap . In short - your best bet is with the dealer - and ask them for a diagnostic ONLY ( est. $100 )
Don't tell the dealer what YOU think or did .......just tell them the 'Yellow light comes on' .......they'll take it from there.
Sorry I don't have better news today .
Best of luck
David
SOURCE: 98 Maxima - Battery and Brake Lights flickering
First off - 125K mi is nothing on that car (as long as you maintain it). The alternator is actually also the voltage regulator and this aspect of the alternator frequently fails before the actual alternator itself does and causes irregular voltage - so it makes sense you drove without the battery connected but you probably were having irregular power instead of a nice steady 14V (the other thing to know is that even if they do show 14V all the time the amperage may differ, both problems = change the alternator).
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