I have a 2004 Chevy 2500 HD 4x4 with a Duramax. I recently replaced the ball joints, inner and outer tie rods, idler arm and pitman arm and the sway bar links. Now when you turn the wheel left or right the wheel will not come back to the center position on its own. It acts like something is too tight or in a bind. What do you think it could be?

if this has a conventional front end(not front wheel drive) then there will be one on each outer tie rod end one on each inner tie rod end, both upper and lower ball joints on each side, idler arm and pitman arm. if its front wheel drive it will have a rack and pinion steering. there for there will be one on each outer tie rod end and one on each lower ball joint, if they have grease fittings. so conventional steering has 10 fittings total and rack and pinion has 4 total.

Front end is a pretty vague description of what you are trying to do. There are - shocks -lower ball joints -upper ball joints -inner tie rod ends -outer tie rod ends -idler arm -pitman arm -center link -stabilizer links -stabilizer bars It is not likely that all of those need to be replaced at the same time?

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

The inner and outer tie rods are pretty self explanatory remove the nut from the knuckle. Whack the knuckle a couple times where the tie rod goes through and the tie rod will pop out. The inner will releas the same way. Get the sleeve whe you get the inner and outer tie rod. It will make life a lot easier. Assemble the new parts to the approximate same length as the parts you removed and install. The idler arm will be bolted to the frame and then have a ball and socket that will be removed in the same manner as the tie rod end. The pitman arm will require a puller to seperate it from the gear box. Sometimes you have to heat up the end that attaches to the gear box to get them to pop. Sometimes the gear box needs to be removed in order to get the puller on the pitman arm. Lower and upper ball joints are also very common on these. If they have not been done I would have them checked as well.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

YOU CAN GO ONLINE LOOK UP ALLDATA DIY.COM THAT A SITE YOU PAY TO USE THE ONLINE MANUAL FOR YEAR OR YOU CAN GO TO ANY AUTO PARTS STORE BUY A HAYNES REPAIR MANUAL IT HAS PICTURES OF THE PARTS YOU ARE REPLACING.THE REPAIR MANUAL WILL COST ABOUT THE SAME AS THE PAY SITE TO USE THE ONLINE MANUAL.

Relay Rod Removal & Installation To Remove:

1. Raise and support the vehicle
2. Remove or disconnect the following:
   • Engine protection shield, if equipped
   • Steering damper from the relay rod, if equipped Note: Use the proper tool in order to separate all the tie rods and the ball joints.
     Steering components
     
     
   • Tie rod ends (F) (See: Tie Rod Ends)
   • Idler arm ball stud nut (J) and discard the nut (See: Idler Arm)
   • Pitman arm nut (H) and discard the nut (See: Pitman Arm) Remove the idler arm from the relay rod
     
     
   • Relay rod from the idler arm ball stud using the J24319-B or other suitable puller Remove relay rod from pitman arm ball stud
     
     
   • Relay rod from the pitman arm ball stud using the J24319-B or other suitable puller
   • Relay rod from the vehicle
3. Inspect the threads on the tie rod ends for damage
4. Inspect the ball stud threads for damage
5. Inspect the ball stud seals for excessive damage
6. Clean the threads on the ball studs

To Install:

1. Install or connect the following:
   • Relay rod to the vehicle
   • Relay rod to the pitman arm ball stud
   • Relay rod to the idler arm ball stud and make sure the seal is on the stud
   • New pitman arm prevailing torque nut
   • New idler arm prevailing torque nut and tighten the idler arm and pitman arm nuts; Torque to: 46 ft. lbs. (62 Nm)
   • Tie rod ends
   • Steering dampener to the relay rod, if equipped
   • Engine protection shield, if equipped
2. Lower the vehicle
3. Check the wheel alignment
4. Test drive the vehicle to confirm the repairs

The inner holes, the inner tierod ends go into the outer holes.

hope this helps...

Pitman arm requires a pitman arm puller, and a tie rod seperator or "pickle fork". Remove the cotter pin on from the joint on the pitman arm and center link, then remove the nuts from both ends of pitman arm. Use the pitman arm puller to remove the pitman arm from the steering gear, then use the tie rod seperator to remove the end from the center link. Reinstall and retighten nuts, do not leave out the cotter pin.
Idler arm will require tie rod seperator. Remove the cotter pin from the end at the center link, use the tie rod seperator to seperate the joint there. Unbolt the idler arm from the frame, and remove. On reinstalling remember to install a new cotter pin. It would be best to have the front end alignment checked after replacing these parts.

depends on what you have done, a person doing the work could do pitman arm, inner and outer tie rod ends, drag links, idler arm, ball joints and busshings for around $600.00

you can usually find all the parts your needing parts and labor for tie rods, ball joints, control arms springs shocks idler arms pitman arms parts and labor will probably run you close to 1500 dollars probably lower.