Car wont turn on after battery post came in contact

You have to take the battery clamps off once or twice a year and clean where they contact with a battery post cleaner brush or reamer. Purchase a di-electric paste or light bulb contact paste and put between the clean battery post and clamp. Tighten. Sometimes you have to replace the clamps with new ones.

Hello, Do you know if the new battery is fully charged? Sometimes new batteries are only given a quick charge, which may not be enough to start an engine. Is there any sign of power when you turn the ignition key? Another thing to check is the actual contact on the battery poles. I've seen a case where the inside of the post connector was not clean and prevented a strong enough connection to allow the starter to work.

I'm gonna give you 2 possible solutions,since you didn't specify if it clicks once when turned to start,or clicks repeatedly.If it clicks once,and the dash lights don't flicker,it's probably an issue with the starter(dead winding or solenoid contacts worn).If it clicks repeatedly when turned to start,then the battery is low on charge or has a bad cell.If you're messing with the battery cables,make sure you clean any green corrosion off of the cxables at the battery(because of GM's side post design,the corrosion is hidden and often forgotten).I have actually have seen corrosion between the battery and cable mimic a dead battery.If you do find a lot of corrosion,clean it up and try charging the battery on 10 amps charge overnight.

have battery checked, sound like battery weak or battery cables loose or battery post and cables need cleaning has a lot of corrossion.make sure you turn off radio before disconnecting negative battery cable if you decide clean battery cables and battery post,reason for turning off radio to keep from locking out radio play code.have battery tested battery volts should be 12.6 volts.

Either you do have a battery problem[**** on the posts or the cable ends]or the starter needs to get looked at.The copper contacts inside the solenoid switch are replaceable and that is the most common fix for a nippondeso type starter.

even though there are accessories on, there may not be enough to turn starter over. Or the connection is bad or not metal to metal contact. Last possible cause would be faulty solenoid.

1.Do the headlights come on? Are they as bright as they should be? No? Check the battery cables, and connections. A corroded battery cable terminal end, and battery terminal will cause this. (Even side post batteries have a terminal. It's just a flat area with a threaded hole) Side post batteries are notorious for acid leaking out of the side post area, and corroding the connections. (I change everyone of my vehicles to use a Top Post battery)

2.Battery terminals and battery terminal ends clean? Battery cables good? Then it's the starter solenoid, or the starter itself.

Inside the starter solenoid, (Mounted to the starter. It's that cylindrical looking object on top of the starter), are contacts. These can burn, and wear out over time.

Inside the starter are brushes. The starter is just an electrical motor. The brushes wear down over time, and do not make contact anymore.

If somehow this is the original starter, and starter solenoid, consider yourself LUCKY! It has seen it's use, and is well past time to be changed.

Even if the battery cables look new , take them off and use a wire brush to clean them, battery post or mount too! a battery can have a clear gel film on its contacts that you can not see but will prevent a full 12v from reaching the starter, just clean both pos and neg parts that connect to the battery well and you will see.

This sounds like poor contact at battery posts-remove and clean contacts,Only other cause is complete failure of alternator.

All electrical users are dependent on battery condition; the starter draws 120-200 amps of current and drops even a good battery down a volt or two.
The tolerance of such niceties as the door locks and trunk release are also dependent on the battery and the voltage and current needs for them to perform can vary widely so if the battery is low, many items will cease to operate properly, the starter first and foremost since its needs are way beyond the load represented by the accessories.
If this problem occurs suddenly, the battery may be OK but its post clamps may not be contacting any longer so cleaning the battery posts and the clamps that sit on them is the first thing to try. You can do a basic check to determine if battery or clamps are at fault by having a friend with a meter check across the battery and trying to start the car; if one measures directly on the battery posts and the battery stays at 12.6 volts while trying to start the car, then the battery clamps or the connection at the starter is at fault. Alternately, if the meter probes are placed on the battery clamps and the voltage plummets when the stater is tried, the clamps are definitely at fault.     A special wire brush with a male and female end can be had at any parts store and will do a good job on the two mating parts.
NOTE: When fussing around with your battery, ALWAYS remove the ground (negative) clamp FIRST. If your tool bumps something that is grounded, nothing bad will happen and then the positive one next because if you then get between the positive post and some chassis part, again, nothing will happen because the negative end is already separated from the chassis.