I had just put a new block in my 1997 320i E36. Everything has been put back nicely and perfect. When Itry to start it starts imediately but can not idle.It also produces this poppinp sound like it's short of petrol.But petrol reach injectors with good pressure. Help me what could be the problem for not idling?

Lock and unlock door with keys, start. Then try to start using fob, if everything is ok.

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no. Could be a bad shift solenoid. or a valve sticking in the valve body.

Spin all the pulleys by hand. Is one ready to fall off or frozen. Is the water pump pulley sloppy? Has the water pump been leaking?

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Try a tune-up: distributor cap, rotor, plugs, wires.

I am not familiar with this particular expansion tank, but with the e36 expansion tank, when it starts to crumble inside, it tends to pull air into the cooling system and cause problems. e36 tanks usually last 10-12 years before they start to crumble, but it is a possibility.
Do you turn on the key and turn up the heater so the heater valve opens when you are bleeding it? I run mine up on ramps so the bleed point is higher than the heater valve when I bleed them. The book does not say to do that so I don't know if it helps at all.

Sounds like the fuel pump is bad.... I would have the codes read and start there... but my imediate suspicions are the fuel pump.

I will give you a short piece of advice because I am not that familiar with Beemers. I have worked on many vehicle in my life and it sounds like to me that you have one of you plug wires crossed. Again I am only saying this from passed experience and from what you are saying I have seen this before and that was the cxase. Good luck, Also make sure that all the ground wires were attached back to the engine as the electrical systems have to be grounded, Take care, Roger

BMW E36 immobilizer Hope the following will help. Had similar problems. The transmitter buttons on keys is for central locking and alarm. Inside the key at the front there is a small electronic/magnetic chip that looks like a block. About 8mm long, 2mm deep and 4mm wide, not connected to any pc board. This is the immobilizer. It must match the receiver that is located behind the ignition switch. If it is loose and too far away from the receiver it won?t deactivate it. If you made a spare key it will switch on electrics but won?t start the car. If you don?t have an immobilizer chip any alarm shop will be able to program a new chip or install a new pair for your keys. There is a way to disable the immobilizer but rather have it fix and protect your car. I read an article somewhere (perhaps bmw e36 blog) of people removing this immobilizer. Good luck

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A few things to check.

1. Is fuel pump delivering enough fuel.
2. Is injectors clean. Perhaps dirt in fuel. replace fuel filter
3. Air leakage at top air intake of manifold at ICV idle control valve. Two hoses inside this housing prone to perishing.
4. Throttle position sensor faulty.
5. Mass air flow sensor faulty.
6. ICV faulty or dirty. comon fault on older e36.

Havent done it yet but ICV is easy to clean according to internet. instruction available at bmw e36 blog. All off above can be tested by yourself according to manual.