Check engine on, coolant overheating, i already change water pump, but water hose is with a lot of pressure, do you think can be air on water system?

Some vehicles hve to bejacked up when bleed may have air in system still.Renaults few these vehicles can be hard to get air out sonetimes.I suggest you talk to your mechanic

Have you tried flushing out your radiator?

Hi Kim,

I can feel your frustration. It sounds like you've done all the logical stuff already. The "donut hole" in your process would seem to be not changing the water pump. The water pump as you might imagine, is responsible for circulating (pumping) the relatively cool water in the radiator into the running engine that contains the hot water. Hoses connect the two together. A thermostat is between the radiator and the engine. Once the water in the running engine gets to a certain temperature, the thermostat opens allowing the water pump to send cool water into the engine and hot water out to the radiator to be cooled. The heater core is usually on the passenger side firewall area.

It sounds like the water pump is the only thing left to change - if it isn't working - it can't circulate the water - and will result in overheating. Lastly, a clogged heater core shouldn't cause the engine to overheat - in fact, if the engine begins to overheat, you should turn the heat to HIGH fan and HIGH temperature to help remove some of the heat in the coolant.

Good luck!

If you have changed the water pump AND the radiator AND the thermostat and still have the problem then the hoses should be checked to be sure they are not collapsing, also make sure that the coolant is 50/50 water and coolant and the thermostat is installed right.

Well one hot and one cool hose means the coolant is not flowing thru the radiator. That could be from a defective pump, closed thermostat, air in the system, or a blockage in the radiator. You might try running the engine with the thermostat out to check flow.

SOUNDS TO ME LIKE YOUR HEAD GASKET HAS FAILED

replace thermostat.then bleed coolant system, this is how you do it.fill the cooling coolant system with 50 / 50 dexcool and water to raise boiling point,straight water will evaporate boil away cause engine to overheat catch fire thats why you need 50 / 50 mixture antifreeze and water.to bleed coolant system first fill coolant system until coolant stay at the full cold mark on the the coolant overflow jug,then you start engine allow it to idle,place the heater and ac control in any ac setting except max and the temperature control to the highest setting,run engine until lower hose to water pump is hot. with the engine hot run the engine speed up to 3000 rpm and allow it return to idle, repeat this 5 times. slowly open the bleed valve on the thermostat housing or look for bleed valve at the water pump heater hose.open bleed valve for 15 seconds to expel any trapped air.then top off the coolant as necessary,and when top radiator hose hot thermostat open up.keep adding cooling to overflow until coolant level stop at full cold mark dont over fill coolant.if engine seem like overheating while looking at cooling gauge turn off engine wait a while until cool off add more coolant until coolant level stay stable and dont drop any.when open radiator overflow cap use large rag over the radiator cap to keep from getting scald open radiator cap a little at a time but dont open radiator cap until engine cool down first.replace the radiator overflow cap, thermostat,and engine coolant temperature sensor and check the cooling fans fuses and relays see what happens.

!st check and make sure the water is flowing in the radiator, then check
the timeing, Mazda will run hot if the timeing is rong.

first find out where the coolant is going, do a system pressure test

My 2005 Nissan Sentra 1.8s with 55,000 mi. blows cold air from the heater. Coolant not circulating in engine. Lower hose stays cool to touch. Both heater hoses cold. Changed thermostat - didn't fix it. Coolant not leaking or dirty. None in oil - no oil in radiator. Changed worn water pump belt - pump spins freely with no noise or resistance. Cooling fans come on after warm-up. Temperature gauge stays in normal range then jumps to hot and back again. Coolant good to 10 below - didn't freeze here yet. No other problems or repairs to car. Afraid to drive and make worse. Help!