I changed the front pads on my 97 Sebring convertible. Also put on new rotors, and changed the calipers. My car bounces slightly, and if I apply the brakes hard, they become spongy. I have bled them off as well.

1. Raise vehicle
2. Support on jack stand
3. Remove lug nuts
4. Remove wheel
5. Remove bolts holding caliper
6. Remove calipers
7. Remove brake pads
8. Push piston into caliper
9. Inspection rotor for damage if damaged replace
10. Install new pads
11a. Replace caliper on rotor
11 b. Replace bolts in caliper and tighten
12. Bleed brakes
13. Replace wheel
14. Replace lug nuts
15. Lower vehicle
16. Tighten lug nuts
17. Test drive vehicle

I hope you mean change front rotors, AND change front disc pads...This front brake set-up is fairly easy for a novice to do also. Why mention rotors? Are you experiencing a vaibration when applying the brake pedal? Yes, this is a sign of warped, worn out rotors...also inspect caliper piston movement, and top off brake reservoir after parts change. The caliper hold down bracket must be removed to change the rotors...2 bolts with good breaker bar, maybe 16 17mm socket and 13mm socket for removal of the caliper (2) bolts...lubricate and clean all parts and slide pins...be sure to thoroughly spray new rotors with brake parts cleaner before installing...this removes the packing oil from the rotors...(will ruin new brake pads and smell) Hope this helps.

Front brake
Step 1: Identify Front Disc Brake Components

Front Wheel Drive Brake Assembly
Most front disc brake components include: brake rotor, brake pads, brake caliper, caliper mount and brake flex hose. Brake service usual occurs between 20,000 and 40,000 miles depending on driver habits, road conditions and brake pad/ rotor materials used.
Step 2: Remove Brake Caliper to Replace Pads

Removing Brake Caliper Mounting Bolts
Locate primary caliper mounting bolts; apply wrench pressure counter-clockwise (When looking at the head of the bolt) to remove the bolts, upper and lower. Make sure the bolt threads are in good shape and replace if necessary.
Step 3: Remove Front Brake Caliper

Remove Front Brake Caliper
After removing the primary caliper mounting bolts lift the brake caliper off of the rotor and then tie or secure to the side, being careful not to bend or kink the brake caliper flex hose. Thoroughly inspect brake caliper and brake hoses for leakage, cracks or chaffing and replace as needed. Next remove the brake pads (If not mounted in the caliper) and secondary caliper mounting bolts. Notice how great protective gloves work, most technicians use them on the job today.
Step 4: Remove Brake Pads

Remove Front Brake Pads
Once the brake pads have been removed, make sure if there is anti rattle hardware to transfer to the new brake pads. Some brake pad manufacturers will include the proper lube (Caliper slides) and anti-rattle hardware to ensure proper performance of their product.
Step 5: Remove Caliper Mount

Remove Caliper Mount Bracket
Finish removing secondary caliper mount bolts and remove caliper mount. Note: clean and lube caliper slides and pad friction surfaces of all foreign material or build-up.
Step 6: Remove Brake Rotor

Remove Brake Rotor
With the caliper mount out of the way you can now remove the brake rotor. Sometimes it can get stuck so you may need to tap it with a hammer or use penetrating oil to free it up. Some manufacturers use small screws to hold the rotor on as well. Clean and inspect wheel studs, replace if any are damaged. Also clean bearing hub rotor mount surface to ensure the proper mounting of the new brake rotor. Inspect the ABS sensor wheel for cracks or damage and replace as needed.
Step 7: Depressing the Brake Caliper

Resetting Brake Caliper
To install the new brake pads you must retract the brake caliper piston. Remove the master cylinder lid or open the brake caliper bleeder screw to allow excess brake fluid to be released if necessary. Install C clamp tool and gently tighten clamp until caliper piston is fully depressed. Note: use old brake pad to protect the caliper piston. Close the bleeders once the piston is retracted completely
Step 8: Installing New Brake Rotor

Install Brake Rotor
Install new brake rotor, the new rotor is manufactured with a protective film over the rotor to keep it from rusting, remove protective film with brake cleaner before installing; also after the brake job is complete you may experience a small amount of smoke from the rotor when first used. This is normal and will go away after the first couple of uses.
Step 9: Installing New Front Brake Pads

Installing New Brake Pads
Reinstall the front brake caliper mount, and then install front brake pads. Make sure the pads are seated properly in the caliper mount; it must be a close fit to work properly..
Step 10: Reinstall Front Brake Caliper

Re-Install front Bake Caliper
Reinstall front brake caliper and reinstall caliper-mounting bolts, recheck all mounts and mounting bolts. Check the caliper slides to be sure there is no bind and that the caliper moves freely back and forth on the caliper slides. Bleed brake system per manufacturer's specifications to relieve any air trapped in the system. Before driving the vehicle, push the brake pedal down and let it up slowly, repeat until normal brake pedal operation resumes, this operation is forcing the brake pads to travel to the brake rotors.

When you changed the pads did you notice if one side was worn more than the other? The most common cause of pulling when you apply the brakes is a seized caliper. It won't work and the other does all the braking. Your left caliper is likely seized and needs to be replaced. Hope this helps.

Did you remove all rust from caliper and pad abutments
(sliding surfaces) ?
Did you put anti-seize on those parts, that need to slide
and be protected from future rusting?
Did you machine the rotors?
You don't put new pads on worn rotors
Did you bleed all 4 wheels (flush)
The right side is pulling because you most likey
have a caliper not completely releasing.
Sounds like you put the problem in there

YOU NEED REMOVE A LITTLE BRAKE FLUID FROM MASTER CYLINDER.THEN YOU RAISE VECHICLE SAFELY.SUPPORT IT WITH JACK STAND.MAKE SURE VECHICLE IS ON LEVEL SOLID GROUND.REMOVE TIRE OR WHEEL.THEN YOU NEED A LARGE C - CLAMP.PLACE C - CLAMP OVER BRAKE CALIPER AND BRAKE SHOE BACKING.TIGHTEN C - CLAMP JUST ENOUGH PUSH CALIPER PISTON BACK IN CYLINDER BORE TO REMOVE CALIPERS FROM ROTORS.TO REMOVE BRAKE CALIPER YOU NEED 2 OPEN AND BOX END WRENCHES ONE TO HOLD CALIPER SLIDE PINS AND THE OTHER WRENCH FOR LOOSEN CALIPER BOLTS.THEN YOU REMOVE CALIPER AND REPLACE FRONT BRAKE SHOES.IF YOU NEED TO REMOVE BRAKE ROTORS JUST REMOVE THE BRAKE CALIPER CARRIER SUPPORT BOLTS THE REMOVE THE BRAKE CALIPER CARRIER SUPPORT THEN REMOVE ROTOR.YOU NEED TO REPLACE BOLTS WITH NEWS AND USE LOCK TIGHT.THEN YOU PUT IN NEW BRAKE PADS IN CALIPER PUT CALIPER BACK ON SUPPORT CARRIER.REPLACE WITH NEW BOLTS USE LOCK TIGHT THEN TORQUE BOLTS TO 26 FT LBS.MAKE SURE MASTER CYLINDER COVER IN PLACE.WHEN YOU FINISH REPLACING BOTH FRONT BRAKE PADS PUMP BRAKE PEDAL TO SEAT BRAKE SHOES AGAINST BRAKE ROTORS SO YOU WILL HAVE FIRM BRAKES WHEN YOU APPLY THEM. THEN CHECK YOUR BRAKE FLUID LEVEL IN MASTER CYLINDER MAKE SURE ITS NOT LOW. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE FIRM BRAKES BEFORE DRIVING.IF YOU HAVE ANY PROBLEMS CHANGING FRONT BRAKE PADS YOU CAN GO TO ANY AUTO PARTS STORE AND BUY A HAYNES REPAIR MANUAL.

Did you remove all rust on pad and caliper sliding surfaces and lube?
Did you flush all 4 wheels?
Are the caiper bolts/pins free & lubed

jack front of car up, put on jack stands, remove tires, remove break calipers, remove caliper mounting bracket if nessisary, remove rotor.

There are seven (7) common causes of brake grab/lock. All of them are listed in the following linked handy diagnostic article:

http://yourhandymanzone.com/Your_Handyman_Zone_How_To_Pages_Vehicle_Car_Zone_Cars_Trucks_Vans_Brakes_Brake_Grab_Lock_Occurs.htm

You speak of having replaced the caliper, but does include the piston, itself. Of the seven causes, caliper piston may be stuck. Check the other six causes in the article linked above.

Good luck!
Brad

Have to pull the front wheels, next back out the two caliper bolts (Allen head), next slide the caliper out of it's seat and set up on the spindle, careful not to damage the flex brake line. This will now free the rotor to come off the spindle. This is also a good time to check/replace brake pads. Chances are if your changing rotors, due to brake damage, warped or other, the pads need changed. This is simply done by sliding the old pads out and placing a C clamp over the piston to back it into the caliper housing to allow room to install new pads. Apply a little antisieze lub behind the pad between the piston and also anywhere the new pad bears. Install the caliper in reverse order and put the wheels back on. Remember to test the brakes before hitting the road, The new pads will have to be pushed out by applying brakes a few times. Then you should be good to go.
Hope this helps.