2004 Honda Civic has noise in dashboard area that sounds like a loud fan. Noise starts when car has been going at least 5 miles or so and continues until the car comes to a full stop. Happens whether Heat/Ac blower is on or not. When braking, the noise sounds like it is "winding down" but does not stop until car comes to a full stop. Then you have to drive car another 5-10 miles before the noise starts up again. This noise does not happen each time we drive, but it happens fairly often.
My first guess is a front wheel bearing is going bad.
SOURCE: 1994 Honda Accord Ex dashboard removal
You have to remove the console and radio pod. Then remove 2 screws that you can now get to behind the pod. Then pry out the dash light dimmer switch (the one you use to adjust dash light brightness) remove the screw behind it that holds in the gage cluster trim. Then there is another switch on the other side under the cluster (don't remember what it is) and there is another screw behind it. Have fun, LOL!
SOURCE: master door switch? or something else? buzzes when i press lock
ok ur door lock switch isnt going out,,however ur drivers front door lock actuator is going or is already bad...have that replaced..also as far as the end noise buzz u hear , that may be ur a.b.s modulator and accumulator cycleing on and off..it may be empty and or leaking..have the a.b.s modulator and accumulator checked at the dealer..its an expensive fix... ur modulator unit in in the front left or right of the vehicle depending if u have a v6 or 4 cyl. its a square unit with a rectangular brake fluid resevroir and a long tubular cylinder (acummulator)... also identify it by the orange connectors...and the brakelines going to it...common symptom with those accords....they leak alot especially if with high mileage..
SOURCE: 2002 Honda Civic Noises
It's the brakes wear indicator telling you that the brakes need changing.
SOURCE: Honda Civic 1992 without AC
Since '92 Hondas come with R-12 there will be R-134a adapters on the high & Lo pressure fittings that go over the original Schrader valves hose fittings. These attach to the top of the original R-12 fittings so you should be able to see them installed over the originals. R-134 hoses won't fit R-12 fittings- this is the primary way that prevents folks from putting in the wrong types of freon.
Conversion kits come with stickers to put on the car indicating that it has been changed to R-134a so you can look for that IF whomever did the conversion followed through with putting them on. The best way to know for sure is to compare your fittings with R-12 & R-134a fittings to see which ones you have.
Evacuating the R-12 is easy, but it is a state jail felony in most jurisdictions unless you have a recycling system and a license to handle it.. R-12 is an expensive commodity and you should have no problem finding a facility that will evacuate your R-12 for free. No more R-12 is being made, it is hard to find & very expensive and will only get more so.
I would find an independent auto A/C guy or gal to do business with who will recycle the R-12 then flush, vaccuum & refill with 134a for free or minimal costs after you do the seals and kit, because R-12 is very hard to find, very expensive with lots of paperwork and must be bought in large amounts that are cost prohibitive even for an A/c shop. If someone wants to charge you for taking your R-12 just move on down the road to the next guy because they will likely rip you off on other things too. Find someone you can work with and have a rapport- the good ones will talk you through what you need to do to convert & will be happy to get your R-12 in return for those services. If you are in a large city there are probably several wholesalers who sell everything you need and will do the evacuation and refill for you for trade- provided you have enough R-12 remaining that is worth their efforts..
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