Rust on brake rotors how can i remove it chemical?

Hi Lydell....you need one for each side.

Regards,
Dennis

I have done brake work for 50 years & never had one problem

So whomever is doing your work isn't doing what is necessary

If all rust is removed from all mating surfaces,& all sliding surfaces
& anti-seize is applied to those areas, you won't have any problems

Silicone Brake Lube to the caliper pins

You have to machine the rotors properly & you have to use quality
pads-Raybestos or Wagner & their best,most expensive ones

Once a year min you start over & repeat the rust removal & lube
You only need to machine or replace rotors every 2 to 4 years

Brake Fluid-- HAS TO (MUST BE) Replaced/Flushed every 2 years

Parking Brake Cables can not be rusted inside & hung up

I'm 100% sure they never removed any rust,never lubed a thing,
& there is rust on the wheel bearing hubs,rotor faces,back of wheels
& even used an air gun to over tighten the wheels

That is what the butchers at all shops do

When a vehicle is built, it comes off the assy line bone dry
& the brakes rust on a the rail cars for 5 weeks getting to a dealer

Front brakes are pretty easy, just go to http://www.customtacos.com/tech/index.php?article=37 for step-by-step instructions with pictures. On the bolts that it tells you to remove, it says they are 17mm, on the caravan they will take a 12mm socket to remove (at least on my 2007 short wheel base SE). The only issue I have with this site is it does not tell you how to remove rotors, and I NEVER replace brake pads without having my rotors turned or replaced. after you have swung the caliper up like the instructions on the website tell you to, you'll notice the rotors are still held in place by the caliper mounting bracket. It is held on with two large bolts that bolt in from the back. If I remember right, they are a 3/4" or 19mm socket. If they've been on for a while (my first brake change was at 48,000 miles) then you will need WD40, a big socket wrench, and a lot of elbow grease to get those loose. Once that's free, you can easily remove the rotors. I would take them to Checker or another local auto parts store that turns rotors, they will let you know if they can be turned or if they need to be replaced. If you get new rotors, don't forget to clean them off with brake cleaner before installing them!!! They are coated with an anti-rust chemical that is very sticky and will smoke for miles and affect your braking. For rear brakes (assuming they are drums, if not, they will be the same as the front), there is a pretty good tutorial at http://trashcars.net/videos/1436/how-to-replace-rear-drum-brakes.html. You should also have your drums turned or replaced when you replace the rear brake shoes as well.

Take it all apart and start over. You obviously didn't do what was required.
Did you remove all rust from rotor mounting hub face?
Install new rotor or remove all rust from both hub and wheel faces and machine rotor.?
Remove all rust from caliper slides and pad sliding abutments and use correct lubricant, in proper spots.
Install the very best quality, vehicle specific pads (Rebestos,Wagner,etc)
Flush and bleed system coorectly.
Are the calipers old and rusted inside, and piston not retracting?

remove tire. remove caliper bolts, hang caliper out of the way. Remove caliper support bracket. cut or pry off rotor securing ring from one wheel stud. wiggle off rotor...rubber mallet may be needed if rust is present.

Removal & Installation CAUTION Dust and dirt accumulating on brake parts during normal use may contain asbestos fibers from production or aftermarket brake linings. Breathing excessive concentrations of asbestos fibers can cause serious bodily harm. Exercise care when servicing brake parts. Do not sand or grind brake lining unless equipment used is designed to contain the dust residue. Do not clean brake parts with compressed air or by dry brushing. Cleaning should be done by dampening the brake components with a fine mist of water, then wiping the brake components clean with a dampened cloth. Dispose of cloth and all residue containing asbestos fibers in an impermeable container with the appropriate label. Follow practices prescribed by the Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) and the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) for the handling, processing, and disposing of dust or debris that may contain asbestos fibers.

The brake rotor can be removed without separating the caliper from the mounting bracket.

1. Release the parking brake.
   
2. Remove 2/3 of the brake fluid from the master cylinder.
   
3. Raise and support the vehicle.
   
4. Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
   
5. Remove the caliper and mounting bracket as an assembly.
   
6. Hang the caliper and mounting bracket assembly from the suspension using mechanics wire.
   
7. Remove the rotor. Slowly turn the rotor while pulling the rotor away from the axle. (15 series).
   
8. Remove the rotor. Slowly turn the rotor while pulling the rotor away from the axle. (25 series).
   NOTE If the rotor is stuck to the hub, try using a slide hammer to free it.
   
   

To install:
WARNING Whenever the brake rotor has been separated from the hub/axle flange, any rust or contaminants should be cleaned from the hub/axle flange and the brake rotor mating surfaces. Failure to do this may result in excessive assembled lateral run-out (LRO) of the brake rotor, which could lead to brake pulsation.

1. Thoroughly clean any rust or corrosion from the mating surface of the hub/axle flange.
   
2. Thoroughly clean any rust or corrosion from the mating surface and mounting surface of the brake rotor.
   
3. Inspect the mating surfaces of the hub/axle flange and the rotor to ensure that there are no foreign particles or debris remaining.
   
4. Install the rotor. Slowly turn the rotor while pushing the rotor towards the axle. (15 series).
   
5. Install the rotor. Slowly turn the rotor while pushing the rotor towards the axle. (25 series).
   
6. Install the caliper and the mounting bracket as an assembly.
   
7. Install the tire and wheel assembly.
   
8. Lower the vehicle.
   

depending if you have the tools to do the job and pb blaster lock tite and white and dark grease for a beginer it has a rating of 7-8. if you work on cars and know what your doing, then its easy.. first thing is to remove the calapers then remove the calaper mounting bracket spray around the studs and bolts with pb blaster also around the hub and tap around the whole area around rotor dont hit the studs (with hammer) to break the rust buildup this should break rotor free then you may want to clean the rust off so that the rotors seat properly remove and clean new rotors with brake cleaner to get off the film off them (shipping rust retardent) and wipe. spray bolt holes to clear any rust left while removing old rotor and braket and dry. place a small ring of lock tite on bolts holding caliper brackets and let stand till harden or almost hard. replace new rotors install bracket/s and bolts (torq to ? 80foot lb) while replacing rotors replace brake pads, replacing just rotors will over heat new rotors in spots and warp rotors!!! make sure you pull the pins that retain the calipers to the bracket and add light coat of white grease to pins so calipers slides easy and evenly

Remove tyres. Remove brake pads.
Remove Brake calipers bolts from the back of calipers.
Put calipers aside without removing brake lines. Remove rotor bolts. Remove rotors. Install new rotors Make sure new rotors are clean from any grease that comes on it with petrol or any cleaning chemical for that purpose (no water) Install calipers Install new brake pads Good luck

THE REAR BRAKE ROTOR IS A LOOSE ROTOR AND SHOULD COME OFF EASILY. IF NOT, IT IS POSSIBLE THAT THE ROTOR IS HELD BY RUST ONTO THE HUB OR THE BRAKE SHOES IS STILL EMBEDDED INTO THE ROTOR. REMOVE THE HANDBRAKE CABLE TO ENSURE THAT THE BRAKESHOES COLLAPSE AND TRY TO LOSEN IT AGAIN. IF SEASED ONTO THE HUB BY RUST, KNOCK THE ROTOR WITH A COPPER HAMMER TO BRAKE THE RUST WITH A RUST REMOVER.

Just rust. Spray with a rust penatrant, let sit for a few minutes, get big hammer and smack the rotor around the hat, not the braking surface. If you are replacing, you can smack the braking surface from the back side also.