Volvo v7 2003 keeps blowing side light bulbs at the front especially the drivers front

Replace the turn signal switch. That is what is shorted out. All the exterior lights run threw it except the high mount brake light.

first mistake you make is to increase the fuse capacity to above that required. You have a short in the circuit and by putting such a large fuse in you run the very real risk of burning the wiring loom. Check the bulb sockets and check that the right bulbs are in the sockets. bulbs come in two styles. one has 2 contact points and is either for 2 filaments (stop and tail) or a earth wire (Plastic light units) and the other is a single contact that earths out through the metal base . If you have the wrong bulb in place the current will short directly across the contacts and the light will not come on and the fuse will blow. Fuses for tail lights will be 5 amp maximun

you obviously have a short to ground on one of the wires to the back (if it was the front the brake shouldn't blow the fuse). the most common problem is usually in a trailer light harness. if you look under the drivers side rear of the truck, down under the tail light there will be a plugin junction. pull this plug-in apart and see if the fuse still blows. if it does then the problem is forward of that connector, if it doesn't then the problem is behind that plugin. be sure to check for "green death" (electrical corrosion) at all joints especially any trailer hook ups.

If it "keeps" lowing the fuse, there can be only one reason for it...you "keep" replacing the fuse without diagnosing the circuits to find out WHY the fuse is blowing in the first place.
When a fuse blows, there is a reason for it. If you do not find the reason and correct it, the fuse will continue to blow.

Please also review this article: Where's The Fuse?

With all of that said, the first thing I would check is all of the light bulbs. Sometimes the bulbs get really hot and melt inside and it causes the metal contacts in the bulbs to touch each other and short the circuit out. This is especially true if you can replace the fuse and everything seems to work ok for a while. They will all work until the offending bulb gets hot and "POOF" there goes the fuse again.

This condition can be hard to diagnose since the short circuit usually goes away as soon as the bulb cools off for a few seconds. In cases like this, what I usually recommend to save time and money is to replace all of the bulbs.

If it is fuse #6 (15 Amp) in the Central Junction Block that keeps blowing, it only powers the tail lamps, licence plate lamps, front park lamps and the front side marker lamps. The cost of replacing all of these bulbs is a LOT cheaper than an hour of diagnostic time at most shops. If this does not fix the problem, then you will have to trace all of the wires going to all of these bulbs to find out which one is shorting and where it is shorting. This could turn out to be very time-consuming and expensive, but at least, you will have eliminated the likelyhood that it is caused by a bulb.

You will have to check the positive wire of the wires that go to the parking and side marker lights for a short to ground.Check the easy things first like the bulbs for these lights.It could just be a shorted bulb.You can remove one at a time and see when the fuse stops blowing.You an get a short finder from a part store and save the trouble of getting a bunch of fuses.Hope this helps.Good luck.

this issue appears many times because the wrong wattage bulb was used. the system measures the amperage flow to the individual bulb. if it falls outside the factory range ,, the indicator light will come on. I had a 1990 volvo myself. had a terrible time keeping good tail lights in that ****** but ABSOLUTELY loved that car. loved it so much I bought another (1998) model. it just wasnt the same driving experience as the 90 model though.
hope this helps...

if the fuse on the driver side panel is good,and the relay under the dash is good then check your connections or your bulbs

Look at the wires behind your marker light, especially at the back where there are more stones hitting. You probably have a bare wire or two.

needs a recalibration at ford that should cure it

Could you take out a bulb and with a testlight/probe check that you do in fact have power to that circuit .Also check that they are the correct bulb for that application I have seen people put indicator bulbs in where therse supposed to be a double filament bulb.Does the base of the bulbs lead contacts line up with the two steel terminals inside the plug?