How do you get the rear brake rotor off, normally they just pull off once the caliper is removed, I did'nt want to beat on it.

Is your hand brakes cable hold the rear brakes? If it does then the cable is rusted inside the cable housing causing the caliper to be holding the other side.. Replace hand brake cables. Or try to release the cable.

Brake rotor and front or rear?

Okay, remove the wheel then remove the brake caliper and move to side do not allow to hang on the brake hose, use a hook to hang off spring or set aside. next remove the caliper bracket, two bolts at rear of bracket to remove it.
next you will use a hammer to remove the rotor.

NOTE: the way the brake rotor was designed was a bad one the hub in which the rotor slides over and the wheel studs slide into holes on the rotor is bad the hub diameter is almost the same size as the diameter of the seat of the rotor that slide over the hub and what happens is sometimes the rust build up on the rotor seat locks the brake rotor on the hub. i do not know if you are reusing the rotors or replacing them, no sure what job you are doing . the rotors to take off you will need to tap on the rear of them with a little force and turn, hit and turn. you will need to see if they break free or if hard beating and spraying into the rear of them is needed with wd40.
Alot of these rotors also have two threaded hole on the face of the rotor near the studs so that you can screw two bolts into holes to help pull them. use wire to tie caliper up and also use a c-clamp to push piston into calipe to remove caliper if needed, Do not remove brake hose, there is no need to open system, here is a picture of the rotor coming of the hub, also there may be clips on the stud holding rotor on remove them use cutters or pry off do not need to reuse , they are to help in holding the rotor on during asm, if you want you can buy them and reinstall them but never reuse them.

Here ya go! This is for the rear brake pads removal:

Removal & Installation

1. Remove the brake master cylinder filler cap. Check brake fluid level in brake master cylinder reservoir. Remove fluid until brake master cylinder reservoir is half full.
   
2. Raise and support the vehicle.
   
3. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
   
4. Inspect the brake pads for wear or contamination. If worn, damaged or past specification, install new components.
   
5. Remove the caliper pin bolts.
   
6. Remove the rear disc brake caliper.
   
7. Remove the brake pads and rail clips.
   
8. Inspect the disc brake caliper for leaks. If leaks are found, disassembly is required.
   
9. Installation is the reverse of removal. Observe the following torques:
   
   • Caliper bolts: 27 ft. lbs. (36 Nm)
     
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you should'nt have any tension on the parking brake,unless it's on. check the parking brake to insure that it's in the off position. chock" the rear wheels,to make sure the car does'nt roll while you're jacking it up and "always use jackstands,do not trust your jack" does your brake caliper piston have a + on it?it will be on the brake caliper piston itself, if so,then you need to back the brake caliper piston back in by turning it counterclockwise,auto parts stores sell a special tool to back the brake calipers back into place, i've always used a straight screwdriver,to turn the piston counterclockwise some do turn clockwise though to retract the brake piston. a simple call to the auto parts store where you're purchasing the brakes will tell you which way the piston will need to be retracted.other wise,it's a simple brake replacement,just push the brake caliper cylinder with a "C" clamp to retract the brake caliper, also,if you are replacing brake rotors,purchase the brake kleen to spray on the new brake rotors when you replace those.they have a clear film on them,you'll need to remove that film to insure no future issues with the brake rotors.simply spray the front and back of the brake rotors with this spray to remove the protective "film"and as always,thank you,for choosing fixya.com!

Try this:

smack it hard with a big hammer

REMEMBER TO REPLACE THE PADS AS WELL, NO USED PADS ON NEW ROTORS.

Raise the vehicle and support on jack stands. Remove the wheels. Place the drip pan under the caliper. Loosen the 10 mm bleeder screw on the top of the caliper.

Step 2 Spread the brake pads apart with the common screwdriver. Place the screwdriver in the slot in the center of the caliper where the pads can be seen. With the nose of the screwdriver, pry between the rotor and the pad and pull the caliper outward toward you. The piston is being depressed into its housing as the caliper is pulled out. When the caliper comes to its limit outward, push the caliper back away from you and insert the screwdriver into the inside pad between the pad and the rotor. Once again pull the screwdriver toward you until the caliper piston is compressed into its bore.

Step 3 Tighten the 10 mm bleeder screw. Remove the caliper and support it where it is not hanging on the brake hose. Letting the caliper hang on the brake hose will damage the hose and cause brake failure.

Step 4 Remove the caliper support if it interferes with the removal of the rotor. Some vehicles don't require the removal of the support. Remove the rotor by pulling it off. If it is stuck, hit it with a hammer a few times between the studs.

Step 5 Install the caliper support and caliper in the reverse order they were taken off. Install the wheels and let the vehicle down. Check the brake fluid and fill as necessary to the proper level.

Step 6 Start the vehicle and pump the brakes very slowly until you have a high pedal. Remember that by expanding the calipers they have to re-adjust. You will not have any braking when you first start the car. Do not try to move the car until you have pumped the brake pedal sufficiently to feel a firm pedal.
Rear-Wheel-Drive Vehicles

Step 1 Raise the vehicle and support on jack stands. Remove the wheels. Place the drip pan under the caliper. Loosen the 10 mm bleeder screw on the top of the caliper.

Step 2 Spread the brake pads apart with the common screwdriver. Place the screwdriver in the slot in the center of the caliper where the pads can be seen. With the nose of the screwdriver, pry between the rotor and the pad and pull the caliper outward toward you. The piston is being depressed into its housing as the caliper is pulled out. When the caliper comes to its limit outward, push the caliper back away from you and insert the screwdriver into the inside pad between the pad and the rotor. Once again, pull the screwdriver toward you until the caliper piston is compressed into its bore.

Step 3 Tighten the 10 mm bleeder screw. Remove the caliper and support it where it is not hanging on the brake hose. Letting the caliper hang on the brake hose will damage the hose and cause brake failure.

Step 4 Remove the bearing cap in the center of the rotor. Remove the cotter pin. Remove the large nut that retains the bearings and rotor. Wobble the rotor with your hands and the front bearing will come out.

Step 5 Reinstall the spindle nut with just a few threads. Grabbing the rotor with both hands, pull the rotor off with slight down pressure and with a quick ****. The spindle nut will grab the rear bearing and seal as you pull the rotor off and come out at the same time.

Step 6 Install the bearings into the new rotor. Grease the bearings first and install the rear large bearing then install the grease seal with the hammer. Install the rotor on the spindle and insert the front small bearing followed by the large washer and the retaining nut.

Step 7 Tighten the retaining nut just until there is no longer any freeplay then tighten an additional 90 degrees. Do not over tighten the retaining nut as it will not allow the bearings to expand and they will wear out rapidly. Install the cotter pin.

Step 8 Install the caliper support and caliper in the reverse order they were taken off. Install the wheels and let the vehicle down. Check the brake fluid and fill as necessary to the proper level.

Step 9 Start the vehicle and pump the brakes very slowly until you have a high pedal. Remember that by expanding the calipers they have to re-adjust. You will not have any braking when you first start the car. Do not try to move the car until you have pumped the brake pedal sufficiently to feel a firm pedal

It may have a allen head on that model.

You brake shoes are probably hanging up.If you are replacing the rear rotors just take a small sledge and beat on the back of the rotor where the dust shield is exposed.

more then likely, the front rotors are warped up from stopping too fast...pull wheels calipers and rotors off. take to local garage to have them turned smooth.. they cost about 10 or 15 each to have that done... also change the brake pads.