1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Logo

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Anonymous Posted on Jan 16, 2010

ORIGINAL PROBLEM I have a 1996 jeepI have a 1996 jeep grand cherokee 4x4 and when i start to hit the brakes or come to a stop the car shakes really bad up front, and sometimes it cuts off. then when i start to hit the gas it hesitates a bit, but once i am driving everything is fine. More I have a 1996 jeep grand cherokee 4x4 and when i start to hit the brakes or come to a stop the car shakes really bad up front, and sometimes it cuts off. then when i start to hit the gas it hesitates a bit, but once i am driving everything is fine. Comments: Jan 14, 2010 - im not completely sure what to do, do you mean blow in the break booster hole, the hose?? however to give you more information. when i get in the jeep and press the brake it goes down a bit and i can hear an air sound when i push down so im not sure if that is normal. also i checked the brake fluid and it was low but i fill it and nothing changed. the symptoms normally happens when i initially have my foot pressed down on the brake pedel and try to put the car in drive or reverse. it would shake and the rpm gauge will go very low and the engine would idle at a low rate just between cutting off and staying crunk, also the battery gauge would go below normal. sometimes it will catch and stay at a normal position and other times it will cut off Jan 14, 2010 - to give you more information. when i get in the jeep and press the brake it goes down a bit and i can hear an air sound when i push down so im not sure if that is normal. also i checked the brake fluid and it was low but i fill it and nothing changed. the symptoms normally happens when i initially have my foot pressed down on the brake pedel and try to put the car in drive or reverse. it would shake and the rpm gauge will go very low and the engine would idle at a low rate just between cutting off and staying crunk, also the battery gauge would go below normal. sometimes it will catch and stay at a normal position and other times it will cut off Jan 14, 2010 - i did want to add when i did remove the valve connected to the brake booster air was released from the booster. i dont know if that was a symptom of a bad booster as well Jan 14, 2010 - very helpful thanks, Im going to pick a brake booster up from the parts place today CURRENT PROBLEM i have replaced the brake booster thanks to everyones help and advice. which calmed the problem for a day. like i mentioned the jeep will run fine once it im driving. the problem i am having is when i put the jeep in reverse the rpm will almost go down to 0 and the car would shake. sometimes it will just cut off. if it doesent cut of it will just continue to shake and contantly try to get at a normal rpm. if i sit there a let it stall for a while and then put it in park or neutral the engine will rev up and the rpm gauge will go up to almost 3 as if im pressing the gas, and then it will go back to normal.

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  • Anonymous Jan 16, 2010

    Thanks! if possible could you list the lines that i should replace and location if possible. Thanks in advance.

  • Anonymous Jan 16, 2010

    what do you mean. please be as detailed as possible. thanks.

  • Anonymous Jan 17, 2010

    to add ive replaced the brake booster, the idle air control valve, the fuel pump, put new spark plugs and wires in, had the oil changed, and the transmission fluid changed, spray carb cleaner around all vacuum lines and no change in idle pressure. i've still have to change out all the vacuum lines, but the jeep still is showing the same problems. help

  • Anonymous Jan 17, 2010

    thanks i will look and listen a little harder.but i am completly lost with this situation. this pretty much just started out of the blue and i don't know what happened, everything was fine and all of a sudden these symptoms started happening

  • Anonymous Jan 17, 2010

    Thanks for all the help. i will go to the link now. you have been very helpful.

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4 Answers

Randy

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  • Posted on Jan 17, 2010
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Your symptoms are very indicative of a vacume leak and will stand firm on this you need to look for a vacume leak check the hose from the brake booster to the where it connects to the other end.At a stand still the leak causes your vehicle to stumble and stall but when your going down the road your engine produces more vacume. Get under the hood and try to listen for a hissing sound witch would be your vacume leak check all your vacume lines and your intake for cracks and the brake booster hose.

  • Randy Jan 17, 2010

    I am going to post this link you need to look at it. It will show you some components associated with vacume lokk at each vacume part and see if its in your jeep then follow those lines from that specific vacume part to the other end where they connectall the while looking for a cracked line or vacume leak.If you come across a part thats not in your jeep dont be alarmed your jeep may not be equipped with it.But the parts your jeep does have has vacume lines you need to check. There may also be a vacume routing diagram sticker under your hood if you can make sense of it it tells you where each vacume line goes to.On this link also when your looking at a vacume part some will will have an option that says replace if you click on that it should tell you location and how to replace it. I dont think they all will but believe most of them will.I hope you find this helpful and if you do please rate my assitance most people dont take the time let me know something thanks.



    http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairi...

  • Randy Jan 17, 2010

    Need to know if you have a check engine light on or malfunction indicater light on if so cuold you have the codes extracted and let me know what they are.

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  • Posted on Jan 16, 2010
Anonymous
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9 times out of 10 then when the idle is a problem it points to a failed Idle air control valve, This problem will not set a code so having it put on a diagnostic scanner and having no other issues is important so as not to replace the part for no reason.
One way to tell is to turn things on like the AC or heater blower or turn the steering wheel. When you do these thing the computer will see it and raise the RPM to compensate. If theRPM falls then the valve is bad.

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  • Posted on Jan 16, 2010
Anonymous
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Vacuum leak is diffenet in your caset

  • Anonymous Jan 17, 2010

    it is taking too much air in and stated before. It is hard to find a leak when the engine is running I know. Check ALL vacuum lines is all you can do and switched that have kines going to the. Any switch or part can have a crack in it too

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  • Posted on Jan 16, 2010
Anonymous
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Your brake booster was bad, you replaced it, but you have another serious vacuum leak. Your Jeep is 14 years old, and you need to replace every vacuum line under the hood. This is an inexpensive repair but is time consuming. Buy enough hose to replace all the lines including the brake booster vacuum line. Do them one at a time as to not get confused which is easy to do. Check all connections and if one is a multi-connector which is plastic check it carefully for cracks and a leak. After you replace all the lines start the engine and spray all connections with starter fluid. If you hit a leak the engine will rev up. If you put your foot on the brake and hold steady pressure and it moves toward the floor, then the master cylinder needs to be replaced. I think that replacing all the vacuum lines will solve your problem.

  • Anonymous Jan 16, 2010


    Replace all the vacuum lines under the hood. Only vacuum lines. If it is a vacuum hose it will be hollow so that air can pass through the hose. Just look at the lines and disconnect one of each size. Cut off a small piece of the line about 1" and then reconnect it. Look at all other lines and then do the same thing with lines that are a different size. Estimate the total length of the lines in each size and then carry the piece with you and purchase enough line of each size to replace them all. Be sure to buy enough. These vacuum lines are cheap so buy plenty. Be sure and replace the booster line, which is not cheap, so measure that one and buy only what you need. I wish I could be more specific, but without looking at the engine myself I cannot tell you where each line is. Warning: Replace the lines one at a time, as it is very easy to get confused and then you would have a mess trying to figure the routing out.



  • Anonymous Jan 16, 2010

    You may have multiple problems so you need to fix them one at a time and then go from there. You have replaced the brake booster, so now replaced the vacuum lines and see where you stand.

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