Converters can i test my catalytic converters for back pressure by removing rear o2 sensors and connecting pressure sensor

Code readers for OBDII are as cheap as $30.
They also allow you to easily reset them.
I believe they will also reset if you leave the battery off for half an hour.
(careful if you have a radio that will also reset and need the secret code to allow use again).

But it is not certain that all these codes mean anything. With something like a noisy alternator or bad ground, your entire system could be just getting confused.
It is always important to consider mostly how the car drives, behaves, handles, etc.

So if the converter was getting plugged, it would idle fine but lack top end power. What are the physical symptoms?


Code readers for OBDII are as cheap as $30.
They also allow you to easily reset them.
I believe they will also reset if you leave the battery off for half an hour.
(careful if you have a radio that will also reset and need the secret code to allow use again).

But it is not certain that all these codes mean anything. With something like a noisy alternator or bad ground, your entire system could be just getting confused.
It is always important to consider mostly how the car drives, behaves, handles, etc.

So if the converter was getting plugged, it would idle fine but lack top end power. What are the physical symptoms?

Sorry, forgot to include a link to show inexpensive OBDII readers:
http://www.automotivecodereader.com/
You can also get them cheap at places like J.C. Whitney, Harbor Freight, Fry's, etc.
But again, I would not trust codes entirely. They don't always mean anything.


Sorry, forgot to include a link to show inexpensive OBDII readers:
http://www.automotivecodereader.com/
You can also get them cheap at places like J.C. Whitney, Harbor Freight, Fry's, etc.
But again, I would not trust codes entirely. They don't always mean anything.

Intake manifold leaks tend to cause the idle to be very rough because they make the mixture too lean then, less so at higher speeds. They also tend to make noise and whistling sounds, so can be found by listening through a piece of hose that you move around. It is also possible to spray starting fluid or WD40 around and see when it causes the engine to pick up. But be careful to stay away from things that are hot or spark and could cause a flash fire.

But remember still, the important thing is how it runs, and it is possible the codes are wrong for some reason. For example, an electrically noisey alternator can cause any code to come up. Intake manifold leaks tend to cause the idle to be very rough because they make the mixture too lean then, less so at higher speeds. They also tend to make noise and whistling sounds, so can be found by listening through a piece of hose that you move around. It is also possible to spray starting fluid or WD40 around and see when it causes the engine to pick up. But be careful to stay away from things that are hot or spark and could cause a flash fire.
But remember still, the important thing is how it runs, and it is possible the codes are wrong for some reason. For example, an electrically noisey alternator can cause any code to come up.

Well both the egr and pvc can also cause this problem.

Both of these have controls to limit the aount of air they allow into the intake manifold. Both can stick and allow too much air to enter.



To test the egr, with a cold engine, disconnect the small vacuum control hose and plug it. Then when you rev it up, the erg should remain fairly cold. With the vacuum line connected, reving the engine should cause it so get hot quickly.



With the pvc valve, try pinching the hose with a pliers. The speed of the engine should not change really. If it does, then change the pvc valve. It is not expensive. A few bucks. Well both the egr and pvc can also cause this problem.
Both of these have controls to limit the aount of air they allow into the intake manifold. Both can stick and allow too much air to enter.

To test the egr, with a cold engine, disconnect the small vacuum control hose and plug it. Then when you rev it up, the erg should remain fairly cold. With the vacuum line connected, reving the engine should cause it so get hot quickly.

With the pvc valve, try pinching the hose with a pliers. The speed of the engine should not change really. If it does, then change the pvc valve. It is not expensive. A few bucks.

Disconnect vacuum hose and connect a vacuum gauge that you can rent, borrow, or buy cheaply. When you start engine, you should get a vacuum reading around 17" Hg on a cold start, but it may drop off a bit as the engine
heats up.
If there is a significant vacuum leak, it will be lower then that.


Disconnect vacuum hose and connect a vacuum gauge that you can rent, borrow, or buy cheaply. When you start engine, you should get a vacuum reading around 17" Hg on a cold start, but it may drop off a bit as the engine heats up.
If there is a significant vacuum leak, it will be lower then that.

Another possibility you could try if you have access to a compressor, is to run it into the intake manifold, from any appropriately sized hose, like the one to the power brakes. Then you can listen for hissing without turning on the engine. Only then it will be air escaping instead of air entering.

Another possibility you could try if you have access to a compressor, is to run it into the intake manifold, from any appropriately sized hose, like the one to the power brakes. Then you can listen for hissing without turning on the engine. Only then it will be air escaping instead of air entering.

If the sticker is really all you want, one thing you can do is to temporarily change the registration address of the car. People often do that if they have a vacation cottage, take a contract somewhere else, etc.

But you can choose a location that has little of no DEQ requirements. Then once the car passes there, even if it is out of state, you can transfer the car's registration address back, and you won't have to be retested, in my experience. Each state may vary, so I can't say for sure. But many rural areas I am familiar with, simply don't have any testing at all. If the sticker is really all you want, one thing you can do is to temporarily change the registration address of the car. People often do that if they have a vacation cottage, take a contract somewhere else, etc.
But you can choose a location that has little of no DEQ requirements. Then once the car passes there, even if it is out of state, you can transfer the car's registration address back, and you won't have to be retested, in my experience. Each state may vary, so I can't say for sure. But many rural areas I am familiar with, simply don't have any testing at all.

Glad you found it. An intake manifold leak causes valves to burn out prematurely. Glad you found it. An intake manifold leak causes valves to burn out prematurely.

what code do you have. I doubt the code has anything to do with exhaust . Usually you get a low flow code. Either pasage to thru the intake is restricted, Not the exhaust side,,,, or the egr valve is bad. Remove the valve and start the engine. You should have alot of vacuum on the suction side (intake side) The exhaust side should sound like you have a loud exhaust side. The code could better help guide me but usually if all this checks out and is cleaned and you still set the code then the valve need to be replaces.



Putting the car on a diagnostic scanner is the easiest way to diagnose this. A 55 the egr should be open a certain amount. If it isnt you will see the voltage data refelct it. what code do you have. I doubt the code has anything to do with exhaust . Usually you get a low flow code. Either pasage to thru the intake is restricted, Not the exhaust side,,,, or the egr valve is bad. Remove the valve and start the engine. You should have alot of vacuum on the suction side (intake side) The exhaust side should sound like you have a loud exhaust side. The code could better help guide me but usually if all this checks out and is cleaned and you still set the code then the valve need to be replaces.

Putting the car on a diagnostic scanner is the easiest way to diagnose this. A 55 the egr should be open a certain amount. If it isnt you will see the voltage data refelct it.

This is why you need to diagnose this with a data scanner. You may have a PCM issue and you may have a pcm update to corect this. You can throw parts at this all day but not knowing what the computer see's your really just gambling. Try soaking and blowing out the intake chamber for the egr. These can become restricted just enought to cause a low flow issue. Either way I asked for the code so i'm left just guessing also. This is why you need to diagnose this with a data scanner. You may have a PCM issue and you may have a pcm update to corect this. You can throw parts at this all day but not knowing what the computer see's your really just gambling. Try soaking and blowing out the intake chamber for the egr. These can become restricted just enought to cause a low flow issue. Either way I asked for the code so i'm left just guessing also.

If you started the engine with or turned the key on with the egr or the 02 sensors unhooked all these code swould set. You need to clear the code first whenever you replace any part. The front 02 sensors are the ones that should of been replaced. The ones closest to the engine I still dont think you had any problems with the old ones since you only started out with a egr code. Put the old parts back on and reset the light to see what is real. All the 134 132 154 152 are all 02 codes. If you

didnt have them before then you created this problem now by doing something wrong. The 404 and the 1493 are egr codes like the sensor was unplugged when you turned the key on. You also have a battery temp code which you may of left something unplugged. The 171 and the 174 are lean codes like the engine was running with a large vacuum leak.



This is one of those situations that your really just causing more problems because you really have no clue what to do. Your also taking the advice from people that don't have the knowlede to know what would set a given code. I am a smog tech in california.. This is what I do. Without the proper tools I too would be throwing parts at this car.



So what I recommend is to put the car back to the way it was when it set the egr code and clear the codes. The cheapest scanner that you can buy that will have the data you need to diagnose this is going to cost hundreds more than just having a shop fix this for you. You can go to alldata.com or mitchell1 DIY and diagnose this yourself if you want to buy a buy a subscription' But without the tools you won't know what the data is that the daignoses will ask for. If you started the engine with or turned the key on with the egr or the 02 sensors unhooked all these code swould set. You need to clear the code first whenever you replace any part. The front 02 sensors are the ones that should of been replaced. The ones closest to the engine I still dont think you had any problems with the old ones since you only started out with a egr code. Put the old parts back on and reset the light to see what is real. All the 134 132 154 152 are all 02 codes. If you
didnt have them before then you created this problem now by doing something wrong. The 404 and the 1493 are egr codes like the sensor was unplugged when you turned the key on. You also have a battery temp code which you may of left something unplugged. The 171 and the 174 are lean codes like the engine was running with a large vacuum leak.

This is one of those situations that your really just causing more problems because you really have no clue what to do. Your also taking the advice from people that don't have the knowlede to know what would set a given code. I am a smog tech in california.. This is what I do. Without the proper tools I too would be throwing parts at this car.

So what I recommend is to put the car back to the way it was when it set the egr code and clear the codes. The cheapest scanner that you can buy that will have the data you need to diagnose this is going to cost hundreds more than just having a shop fix this for you. You can go to alldata.com or mitchell1 DIY and diagnose this yourself if you want to buy a buy a subscription' But without the tools you won't know what the data is that the daignoses will ask for.

You can clear codes any time you want. If there is a problem you will find out You can clear codes any time you want. If there is a problem you will find out