'92 Paseo with 36K Miles has new battery, new alternator, new plugs, new ignition wire, new distributor cap and rotor. Runs like a charm... until the temperature drops below 30 degrees, then engine turns over, but it will not start! Any ideas?

Sounds like ignition module problem, electronics when warmed can cause it to shut off. Or crank sensor

Camshaft Position Sensor Replacement (5.0L, 5.7L)

Removal Procedure

Caution: Refer to

Caution: Unless directed otherwise, the ignition and start switch must be in the OFF or LOCK position, and all electrical loads must be OFF before servicing any electrical component. Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent an electrical spark should a tool or equipment come in contact with an exposed electrical terminal. Failure to follow these precautions may result in personal injury and/or damage to the vehicle or its components.

For Vehicles equipped with OnStar® (UE1) with Back Up Battery:

The Back Up Battery is a redundant power supply to allow limited OnStar® functionality in the event of a main vehicle battery power disruption to the VCIM (OnStar®module). Do not disconnect the main vehicle battery or remove the OnStar® fuse with the ignition key in any position other than OFF. Retained accessory power (RAP) should be allowed to time out or be disabled (simply opening the driver door should disable RAP) before disconnecting power. Disconnecting power to the OnStar® module in any way while the ignition is On or with RAP activated may cause activation of the OnStar® Back-Up Battery (BUB) system and will discharge and permanently damage the back-up battery. Once the Back-Up Battery is activated it will stay on until it has completely discharged. The BUB is not rechargeable and once activated the BUB must be replaced.



1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.



2. Disconnect the spark plug wires and ignition coil wire from the distributor.


3. Disconnect the CMP sensor harness connector from the distributor.



4. Remove the distributor cap screws.



5. Remove the distributor cap.



6. Remove the rotor screws.



7. Remove the rotor.
   


8. Remove the CMP sensor screws.



9. Align the square slot in the reluctor wheel with the CMP sensor.



10. Remove the CMP sensor.
    

Installation Procedure

Important: Do not use the old cap screws, CMP sensor screws, or rotor screws. Use replacement screws that have been coated with a thread locking compound. Precoated replacement cap and CMP sensor screws can be acquired using P/N 10475922 (pkg of 10 screws). Precoated replacement rotor screws can be acquired using P/N 10475924 (pkg of 10 screws).

1. Align the square slot in the reluctor wheel with the CMP sensor.



2. Insert the CMP sensor through the reluctor wheel slot.

Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.




3. Install new CMP sensor mounting screws.
   
   Tighten:
   
   Tighten the fasteners to 1.6-2.8 [n-m] (14-25 lb in).
   

Important: The locating tabs on the rotor are necessary for correct alignment of the rotor. If the tabs are missing or damaged, replace the rotor.



4. Install the rotor onto the reluctor wheel.



5. Install new rotor fasteners.
   
   Tighten:
   
   Tighten the screws to 1.5-2.4 [n-m] (13-22 lb in)
   


6. Install the distributor cap.



7. Install new distributor cap screws.
   
   Tighten:
   
   Tighten the screws to 1.8-3.0 [n-m] (16-26 lb in)
   


8. Connect the CMP sensor harness connector.


9. Connect the spark plug wires and ignition coil wire.



10. Connect the negative battery cable.

Did you check primary voltage to ignition coil? red wire with lite green tracer, use a test lite to check voltage, goes hot with key on, circuit is fuse protected.

plastic distributor ? wrong screws in rotor? timing?

First does the rotor turn when cranking engine?? possible timing chain is out or stripped gear..are you sure it has no spark??did you verify this with a high output spark tester ? did you spray starting fluid in the tbi unit ?

This diagram is for 1998-1995 Chevy 6 cylinder 4.3L engines.
Your got the firing order exactly correct, at 1-6-5-4-3-2, but here's the thing to double-check:
The distributor rotation is clockwise (note badly rendered arrow in picture).





Since you probably got everything right, then you're left with really unusual/rare causes of
failure of the ignition system:
(a) rotor button misaligned/failing to make contact?
(b) rotor button not pressed onto distributor shaft far enough therefore failing to provide correct
proximity to distributor cap contacts when coil fires
(c) coil wire or contact loose/disconnected - press coil wire firmly down into distributor cap.
(d) distributor shaft of other damage caused during installation of rotor.
(e) spark plug wires defective from factory
(f) spark plugs defective from factory
(g) battery low - may need a charge to start
(h) ICM (ignition control module) failure - hook up your HEI (high energy ignition) tester, and
watch the quality of the spark on each cylinder.
(i) fuel problem? If spark is being properly delivered, its gotta be a fuel problem...
(j) distributor cap not screwed down flush to top of distributor? maybe just on one side?

Inspect the inside of the distributor cap - if there are lots of little metal bits all over the inside
of the distributor cap, then you know you have a misalignment of some type in there, and the
rotor and cap are destroying each other. normal operation will throw a quota of spark-ed off
metal bits inside the distributor cap, but since your cap is brand new, your attempts to start
the engine should have rotated the distributor so few times, you should see no metal debris.

Inspect the distributor cap contacts to see if any spark marks are more of less in the middle
of the cap's proper "contact zone". If not, you've diagnosed an internal misalignment, which
you know how to correct.

The timing is not adjustable and it is computer controlled, but the distributor must still be clocked in properly and static timed, and here is how it is done.

There is a mark or notch on the distributor housing that the rotor should be pointing to when the engine is on top dead center. This static timing is all that matters and the computer will be able to control the timing as long as the ignition rotor is in that position when the engine is at top dead center.

1. Place the engine at top dead center.

2. Look under the distributor cap and find where the number one terminal runs under the distributor cap, and where that position on the distributor cap corresponds with the distributor housing, and it should match up to a mark or a notch on the distributor housing.

3. With the engine on top dead center the ignition rotor should be pointing to the mark or notch that is on the distributor housing, if it is not then loosen up the distributor and turn the distributor until the ignition rotor is pointing to the mark or notch on the distributor housing, the engine should now be static timed.

Sounds like a fuel mix problem possibly the oxygen sensor. If it ran like this immediately after the new plugs, I would check to make sure all the plug wires are on the right plugs and secure. Good luck!

So you threw parts at it. No harm intended. Should have started with the adding gas part first. You know the filter is new and it does run! Are the fuel pump amps correct,pump mech bound,no fuel volume, pressure regulator work correctly? Does the pump run in start mode or time out? Now the harder stuff. What does the spark and timing look like,What is the computer seeing and then what command is it sending?

sounds like a bad alternator try this list too 1 Inspect Battery Damaged or faulty battery and/or connections. 2 Inspect Coil - Ignition Damaged or faulty ignition coil or ignition coil circuit. 3 Inspect Fuel Filter Clogged or dirty fuel filter 4 Inspect Fuel Injector Pressure Regulator Faulty fuel injector pressure regulator or circuit. 5 Inspect Fuel Pump Improperly functioning fuel pump or circuits. 6 Inspect Wireset Damaged, worn, or deteriorating spark plug or coil wire(s). 7 Inspect Control Module-Ignition Faulty ignition control module or circuit. 8 Inspect Solenoid Switch Damaged or faulty solenoid switch or solenoid switch circuit. 9 Inspect Starter Damaged, worn, defective, or faulty starter or starter related circuit. 10 Inspect Neutral Safety Switch Damaged or faulty neutral safety swittch or circuit. 11 Inspect Fuse Corroded, burned, or shorted fuse may be interupting power source. 12 Inspect Fusible Link Corroded, burned, or shorted fusible link may be interupting power source. 13 Inspect Battery Cable Corroded, broken or poorly connected battery cable. 14 Inspect Spark Plug Wire Loom - Performance Improperly adjusted or worn/malfunctioning carburetor. 15 Inspect Distributor Cap Loose or cracked distributor cap 16 Inspect Distributor Cap And Rotor Kit Loose, cracked, or worn distributor cap and ignition rotor. 17 Inspect Fuel System Pressure Incorrect fuel pressure being delivered to carburetor or fuel injection system. 18 Inspect Fuel Injector Plugged, dirty or poorly connected fuel injector. 19 Inspect Ignition Switch Worn, damaged or faulty ignition switch or circuit. 20 Inspect Spark Plug Fouled, damaged or broken spark plug(s). 21 Inspect Belt Incorrectly routed, adjusted(tensioned), missing or worn drive belt(s). 22 Inspect Timing Belt Slipped or broken timing belt. 23 Inspect Timing Set Slipped timing chain or worn timing gear(s). 24 Inspect Fuel Tank Contaminated fuel from rusted or deteriorated fuel tank. 25 Inspect Ignition Timing Incorrectly adjusted engine timing.