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Original problem-solenoid clicked and wouldn't start. Replaced battery ground, solenoid, starter and ignition switch housing. Did not solve problem. Test of Brown wire from solenoid to ignition switch showed broken circuit. Replaced Brown wire. Starter now would work, but no spark at plugs. Test of Red w/Green Stripe wire from ignition switch to coil showed broken circuit. Replaced Red w/Green Stripe wire. Plugs now have spark. New problem-starter engages in ON position of ignition switch. Note that wiring diagram shows Brown wire going from solenoid to a "block" where a Red w/Green Stripe wire goes to the coil and a second Red w/Green Stripe wire (labeled Resistance Wire) goes to the ignition switch. The connector on the back of the ignition switch in the vehicle had both the Brown and Red w/Green Stripe wires going to the same terminal and I found no "block". Same problem regardless of which ignition switch housing is used. Actual wiring to ignition switch does not match wiring diagram as to connection locations.
need to wire the ignition switch terminals are IGN-BAT-ST-GRND-ACC. what wire attaCHES TO EACH. i FIGURE ign IS NOT USED BECAUSE IT IS A DIESEL, bAT GOES pOSITIVE bATTERY, St goesto starter, GRND goes to ground, and ACC. would be for lights etc.need to wire the ignition switch terminals are IGN-BAT-ST-GRND-ACC. what wire attaCHES TO EACH. i FIGURE ign IS NOT USED BECAUSE IT IS A DIESEL, bAT GOES pOSITIVE bATTERY, St goesto starter, GRND goes to ground, and ACC. would be for lights etc.
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Might be bad starter relay, or bad ignition switch. Check for voltage to starter when key in start position, or turn on headlamps and try to start. If lamps dim, bad battery connections, bad ground, bad replaced starer. If lamps do not dim, starter position on switch may be bad. You could try using jumper from battery to start post on solenoid to see if it cranks. If it does, you have either a bad ignition switch, start relay, or wiring problem.
I think you have a couple of problems going on here. First a solenoid would not cause the engine to lose power until it dies. This problem will probably be an alternator going bad, bad battery, or bad battery connections (check ground wires on engine, body, and battery then check positive wires on battery and to power distribution block). These related issues can be the root cause to solve the starting issue, which I will discuss now. I recently repaired a 94 F-150 that would not even click when trying to start it. It was the push on connector to the solenoid on passenger inner fender well. I have also seen where this solenoid loses its ground (corrosion between screws and fender well). The 94 had two solenoids, one on the fender and one on the starter. To see if the solenoid valve is good, you can use a jumper wire from the hot side of the solenoid to the small terminal stud. If it clicks it should be okay and the ground okay. Be sure to have the vehicle in park or neutral with the parking brake on before doing this, because you are bypassing safeties.
There are two cables to the starter. one -, one +, both of these come directly from the battery. The + goes to solenoid on one side then from the other side to the starter. If you have the solenoid on the wheel well. The - goes to the block any where you want, but usually on the bolt that holds the starter on. If you have he starter with the solenoid on it then the+ goes to it. Also on the solenoid there is a smaller wire that is the ignition wire from the ignition switch
If the positive cable is on the wrong side, yes no power. The positive must be on the up side of the solenoid along with the other wires (except your start wire which goes on the small post). The cable going to the starter hooks on the down side. The ground goes to a ground (usually to the motor).
Check your starter cable down at the starter. Even if you jump the battery you are still feeding the same starter cable under your truck.
It sounds like your battery may be shorting. It will still break connection. You could try to bypass your battery and feed the jumper wires direct to the cables with the cables disconnected from the battery posts of the bad battery. Block the cables with wood or some insulator and then try to start the truck. If it pulls down again you will know it is not the original battery. Then it must be the starter cable or the starter.
Check the ground wires. There use to be a frame ground under the area of the passengers door on the frame.
the ground cable is just that. as long as it connects from the battery to the engine and another cable from the engine to body or the battery to the body, thats OK.. Now the 2 positive cables goes from battery to the starter solenoid on the fender and another from the battery to the starter itself. there is a red wire (smaller) that goes from the solenoid to the stater .....there is a fusible link at the starter solenoid, make sure that the solenoid has power. if no power ..then the fuse links may be burned out. if you connect battery power to the small terminal on the solenoid the starter should spin the engine over IF all other wires are ok.
the cable coming off the starter is the postive (+) cable not the ground cable. thats why its not truning over cause you have now power going to the starter. run the cable from the stater to the (+) side of the battary and i bet it will start up
need to wire the ignition switch terminals are IGN-BAT-ST-GRND-ACC. what wire attaCHES TO EACH. i FIGURE ign IS NOT USED BECAUSE IT IS A DIESEL, bAT GOES pOSITIVE bATTERY, St goesto starter, GRND goes to ground, and ACC. would be for lights etc.
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